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Porsche 356 SC 1965 Restoration
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Magre
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:03 pm    Post subject: Porsche 356 SC 1965 Restoration Reply with quote

Hi!
My name is Magnus and I am from sweden.
In January 2014 I bought my first Porsche. A signal red 356 1965.
Despite not having any knowledge in welding, steel work or mechanics it was impossible to resist.
The moment I sat in the car I knew that I would buy it, if I could..
It took 3 months for the owner to make up his mind.
Well, its not Like he was left all naked, he has a speedster and a early 912, police green. But I can imagine the feeling.
The Porsche now stands in the garage and are currently being disassembled.
My goal is to have the car media blasted in 2 months time. And I have a question. The guys that are blasting the car will do it with a plastic material which do not hurt the metal, it just makes it "bare". How long time before I have to prime the body? Or is there any other recommendations?
Best Regards Magnus
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Falling in love with the 356 is a pretty big deal. Life changing event!
Just curious to know if "Red" was the original color? And what color your going with. The C's got to be pretty nice! I had an A for a Daily Driver for 30 years. Great Cars.

It depends on the climate, here in Oregon things start to rust up in 24 hours in the winter. Out in Colorado or in the American High Plains and Desert Southwest you can go months. I would imagine Sweden is pretty damp in the winter!
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dsrtfox
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Magnus,
I would get a hold of Jan_t4 in Germany. His post is two down from yours...
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Magre
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 1:52 pm    Post subject: Blast Reply with quote

Thanks for the fast reply guys. The original color is signal red. Tha car has never been repainted, nor has it been repaired before. I dont know what color I will go for. Feels like when one is restoring a car to this extent, I can choose which color I want.
My children want white. Im not sure, black or silver..
I agree with painting the car asap. Sweden is propably worse than oregon in that sence. But the blast guy insisted. With the small plastic balls the actual steel coating will be intact. He said I could wait a couple of months before painting.
I dont know. Anybody have same other experience on the blasting media? Maybe sand in the end?
Will have to ask for references first.
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garrick
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aren't those Porsche bodies fully galvanized? I know a guy near San Francisco that has had one, without paint, sitting outside for a decade. There's no rust on it.
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Porsche 356 bodies rust just looking at them unless they come from the Arizona desert. They were not galvanised. I guess after media blasting ( I would never use sand )if its in a garage and needs a lot of welding then you could get a primer that still allows you to weld nearby.

To be honest, the primer is applied lightly anyway and when you are ready you can easily wet and dry it off, I reckon then you will be okay. You just want the larger area's covered to stop light surface rust from the winter you have in Sweden.

Good luck with the project. Good advice above look on www.abcgt.com and the restoration pages for 356 cars. That will give you hours and hours of reading and looking at photos on every aspect of 356 bodywork and the underneath of the car.

Roy
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Wolfgangdieter
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Porsche didn't start using galvanizing until 1976. Yes it needs to be acid treated and epoxy primed after blasting.
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Magre
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This weekend I managed to get some work done. Slow progress though, not like Jan im afraid.
I will go for media blasting and then epoxy primer. But what is that acid you talk about Roy? Is that something optional or a must before priming?
Here are some pictures of the car. Note the before and after pictures of the Horn. Very Happy
Never underestimate the power of the volunteer..

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Wolfgangdieter
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eastwood has an easy to use spray on "After Blast" metal conditioner. Please post after media blast pictures. You definitely have your work cut out for you - that is a lot of rust damage. Metal conditioner may be old school due to new epoxy primers so check with a good auto pain supply shop to see if its needed.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-afterblast.html?S...aQod_ZkAmQ
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thebooger
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once you have the car all media blasted, make sure to check out Restoration Design Europe in the Netherlands for all your sheet metal needs.

http://www.restoration-design.eu/

They also have a bunch of "how to" videos on installing their parts.
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roy mawbey
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Magre,

Just looked at your photo's. You mentioned in your first post you have no welding experience and I guess no restoration experience either. As mentioned above, look at Jan's thread from page 1. Also go onto www.abcgt.com and look at the restoration pages for Justin Rio. Again look from the start to the finish.

I can see many months of work ahead for an experienced person so for you with a learning curve it will be much longer. It depends on what finished result you would be happy with of course.

The structeral items you really don't show. With the body in this condition I guess the underneath is worse. You can only weld new panels to good metal and after media blasting you will see then just what might be possible.

I would like to say it looks an easy job to do, but sometimes you need the thoughts of others before you start. Remember its possible to restore a really rusty 356 but for someone to do the work they need to know 356 cars very well and it can really cost a lot of money to do.

Remember also the people who do this 356 work have the space to do it and the car often has to be put on a rotisserie to turn it over for welding work.

Have you ever asked someone with 356 working experience to check it over and give an opinion? When was it last on the road?

Sorry to be so truthful, I am only being realistic before you start. Photos of the underside would also be useful to see.

Roy
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cooperati
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice project

the strip down is the easiest bit by far.

rather than taking it down to a bare shell i would do it bit by bit. take some parts off, blast, repaint, get the plating done on the fasteners, new pieces where necessary, reassemble and store. while it is fresh in your mind.

its not how the pros do it, because it is v slow, and they know ehere everything goes. trust me, you will forget how things came apart, where you have stored parts etc, even with pics - i know i am always a picture short on cars i havent worked on before, because i didnt know what i was going to forget if you see what i mean.

in the meantime, practice your welding. get a good machine, not a cheap one. practice practice practice. buy a selection of body tools, hammers, dollys, grinders, planishing hammers, and play with metal. learn how the material behaves, learn how to get good penetration on 1mm steel, and learn how to fix distortion. when you can do that reasonably confidently, start on the car - a doctor has 7 years practice before he starts treating someone, he doesnt do a treatment on his first day of university.

that car is 4000 hours to do properly. you need to take small bites, to build your confidence and to keep your motivation up.

JIMO, of course

good luck
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cooperati
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

one further thing - if you can, do a metal work course

there is a great guy in tonsberg, norway, runs a shop called unneberg bil, and teaches metal forming. He hosts metal meets, is very talented, and a great teacher. a week of tuition with him would be money very well spent.
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Magre
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys.
2 jobs, 3 kids, 1 wife, not necessarily working in that order, takes a lot of time from the car. But some progress, although slowly Smile
Well, almost cleaned the body but having problems with removing the ventilation inlet in the front. They are stuck. Discovered a bolt inside the fender which I thought would solve the problem but it did not move. I then tried to move the rubber extention, that goes in the cuoupe. But that wouldnt do it either. Am I to weak? Should I pull harder?

Then there is another question regarding rust in the tank. In the tank itself there is no rust, but in the pipe that goes in the tank, (filling up gas i), there is some rust. How do I remove it smartest? Rust eater? Steelwire brush?
All the best Magnus
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