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Ok, this camber adjustment has now annoyed me....
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Jerry39218
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 3:50 am    Post subject: Ok, this camber adjustment has now annoyed me.... Reply with quote

As I am STILL waiting on the new shims.... I tried once again using the OLD shims and here is where I moved them around to.

A-2
B-6

C-6
D-2

Other than a little play in the lower linkpin bushing on one side everything seems fine....except..

for I still have a slightly camber-toed front end!!! (causing the outside of the tires to wear)

that's the max I want to go on the shims...nothing seems bent, everything appears ok.

Any ideas? Am I missing something?
Even had an old VW guy tell me that people used to weld steel Ibeams on the front end to counter that?? Seriously?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do any of your shims have the O ring and are thicker? There are 2 different settings using 8 or 10 shims that I believe are dependent on that.
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm .. why does this sound so familiar..

VOLKSWAGNUT wrote:


On Link Pin Beams.. CAMBER IS NOT ADJUSTED WITH MOVING THE SHIMS..

Camber is cast into the carrier assembly.. using the correct shim chart IN THE SERVICE MANUALS... sets the carriers to torsion arm offset properly and "compensates" for manufacturing variances.

If you think you just set your camber by swapping a few shims around..... you actually are simply binding the assembly and quick wear in the bushings will result.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=449284&highlight=camber+front

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Jerry39218
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fine... it's not adjustable.

Solution?

Replace the whole front beam?

Or just shim it (against the book yet it's what old timers say do hah) and possibly replace link bushings sooner than 5 years?

Suggestions please...
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Jerry39218
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After reading up some more I'm thinking replacing the link pin carrier.

My question is how did both sides get SO much positive camber and the carriers do not look to be bad or bent?

This thing looks very pigeon toed on camber and the tires that were on it the outside was almost bald. Sad
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My Manx is set to the factory camber and the tires show no signs of wear with 30,000 miles on them. How many miles do your worn tires have? Replacing the beam will not affect the camber at all. The camber is dictated by the trailing arms, spindles and carriers in conjunction with the link pin shims.
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Jerry39218
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then I can only presume that the wrong parts were installed at some point.

I suppose when money and time allows I can replace the carrier and spindles Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The VW stock spec is slightly positive camber, and slightly positive toe.
Of course if you have any wheel or tire on it other than stock.. stock specs can be pissed out the window.
(new slot wheels ?)


Stock link carriers seldom have issues.
Trailing arms are usually the weakest link and issue.

Some have had success with a nice whack with a mallet.
BUT!!!
You would then need to remeasure and set up the shims according to the the charts for your application.

Could be what you see as exterme.. is perfectly fine and 100% normal
Wide tires amplify the looks, effects and tire wear of positive camber..

Do you have any idea what you car actually has for angles?
Toe/Camber/Caster..

If its toe'd in too much it will wear the outside edges as well.

Got pics of this pigeon from the front on a good level surface?

.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A possibility is you may have a set of bent tubes....

Dale
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the front camber really does exceed the stock VW specs after shimming according to the book, I think the most likely reason is the lower trailing arms have been bent inwards, it does happen but most usually on the curb side. VW supposedly had a jig to check the arm. I suppose you could compare them to another known good arm.

Another thing I've seen happen is the grub screw on the trailing arm wasn't adequately tightened right in the center of the dimple on the torsion leaf stack and the arm has worked itself outwards.
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Jerry39218
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe there may be some pics posted.

Nothing appears bent and it's the same positive camber both sides.

No I have nothing with which to measure but it looks like 1" out on the top of the tires.

Since I adjusted the shims only looks about .5 " out.

The old tires were almost bald on the outer half...inside of the tires looked new.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another factor is how worn are the shanks of the bolt that engages the spiral grooves machined in the link pins. I've seen them real sloppy.

These type of link pins are more positively held.

http://www.mooreparts.com/1200-AC405055/

Another possibility is your king pins are worn
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think ^ Normally worn king and or link pins... create Negative Camber..

Unless you take an actual alignement measurement you are just quessing at what it actually is.

On a good solid level surface.
Use a plumb bob, string, level and a tape measure..
There are also handy dandy angle finders that work ok.. even smart phone Apps.

I looked through your pics and really didnt see anything abnormal.. It could all be a toe in issue that give the illusion of excessive positive camber.

Measure your angles... or get it measured by a professional. .
.

.
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Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
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Jerry39218
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's camber. Positive camber. Not a toe in issue.

I will see if I can get some kind of measurement.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jerry39218 wrote:
It's camber. Positive camber. Not a toe in issue.

I will see if I can get some kind of measurement.


What are your actual measurements in offset front top to bottom arm ?

You say you have moved shims around so u should have before and after ? or where you just chasing camber ?

Did you put in new king pin bushes ? If so what ream tolerance did you go with ?

Have you checked the carries ? 90% or more of the king pins I have done have been bent ... they are very weak and no doubt just one of the many reasons the BJ came along and was stronger and thicker.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can think of 2 things, one of which has been mentioned.

1. The trailing arms are bent by whacking curbs. Seems less likely when you have the same problem on both sides. It will twist the arms though, so when you strait edge them to get a measurement to determine where to put the shims you may (if it isn't severe) get a valid answer, but excess positive camber when done.

2. If you are using old shims they may be worn. The specs only work for new shims. If using old shims you have to measure the shims and put the correct thickness of shims in between the king pin carrier and trailing arms. The actual count could be wrong to get the measurement right. In my experience it is the upper inboard shims that wear the fastest.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:
If the front camber really does exceed the stock VW specs after shimming according to the book, I think the most likely reason is the lower trailing arms have been bent inwards, it does happen but most usually on the curb side. VW supposedly had a jig to check the arm. I suppose you could compare them to another known good arm.

Another thing I've seen happen is the grub screw on the trailing arm wasn't adequately tightened right in the center of the dimple on the torsion leaf stack and the arm has worked itself outwards.


I had an original test jig from VW back when I was racing. Typically a stock lower arm would be out of spec after one day of short course 1-2/1600 racing. A properly gusseted arm would last at least a season.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iguana wrote:
Jerry39218 wrote:
It's camber. Positive camber. Not a toe in issue.

I will see if I can get some kind of measurement.


What are your actual measurements in offset front top to bottom arm ?

You say you have moved shims around so u should have before and after ? or where you just chasing camber ?

Did you put in new king pin bushes ? If so what ream tolerance did you go with ?

Have you checked the carries ? 90% or more of the king pins I have done have been bent ... they are very weak and no doubt just one of the many reasons the BJ came along and was stronger and thicker.


dunno--I don't have a micrometer..yet.

Shims moved as follows:

A=2
B=6
C=6
D=2

I haven't done anything with bushings, do not have the capability.
Carriers do not appear to be bent, but with Jackson streets, I suppose that is a good possibility.

I believe I'm just going to replace the whole damn thing and be done with it. Spindles with carrier built already--found them at SoCal I believe.
As I have no way and do not know anyone who can press in the kingpin stuff.
I did find a vw mechanic, however he's not familiar with the kingpin front end...yet Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jerry39218 wrote:
Iguana wrote:
Jerry39218 wrote:
It's camber. Positive camber. Not a toe in issue.

I will see if I can get some kind of measurement.


What are your actual measurements in offset front top to bottom arm ?

You say you have moved shims around so u should have before and after ? or where you just chasing camber ?

Did you put in new king pin bushes ? If so what ream tolerance did you go with ?

Have you checked the carries ? 90% or more of the king pins I have done have been bent ... they are very weak and no doubt just one of the many reasons the BJ came along and was stronger and thicker.


dunno--I don't have a micrometer..yet.

Shims moved as follows:

A=2
B=6
C=6
D=2

I haven't done anything with bushings, do not have the capability.
Carriers do not appear to be bent, but with Jackson streets, I suppose that is a good possibility.

I believe I'm just going to replace the whole damn thing and be done with it. Spindles with carrier built already--found them at SoCal I believe.
As I have no way and do not know anyone who can press in the kingpin stuff.
I did find a vw mechanic, however he's not familiar with the kingpin front end...yet Smile


I had always heard that the king/links were stronger, but the turning radius of them suck (ask me how I know). Anyway, there is a shop in St Louis that can do your King/Link pin work. Archway Imports in St Louis. They have an ad in Hot VWs too. 314-638-7700. Jim is a great guy and very knowledgeable. They did my link/king pin spindles and did a great job. I would check them out first before you go out and get new.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RedBaronofRedBud wrote:
I had always heard that the king/links were stronger


Nope K&L are the weakest front end made ... BUT they are easily modified to gain additional strength and more travel.

Strength Wise in order

K&L
BJ Type 1
BJ Type 181
Modified K&L
After Markey K&L ( King Kong etc)

That is if the Mods are done correctly, if not then they are open to be weak and fail.
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