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1967 SO-42
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cru62
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stuco wrote:
Cru62, I knew it was uncommon but I had only speculated that it was for a bus with safari windows, thanks for confirming that! It has the ruby red tip on it. I wonder why mine has the antenna and no safaris?


That makes it a Hirschmann "Red Tip". Those are much more desirable than the standard Bosch or Hirschmann.

I have had two Safari antennae. Both were the more pedestrian version, not the "Red Tip". And both were on non-safari buses, oddly enough. I have heard the theory that when they were installing antennae at the dealership (because they weren't ever installed at the factory) that they would use whatever was on hand to get the bus out the door. Sounds reasonable.

Congrats on your bus and the work you are doing. What a sweet ride.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Cru62,

I spent the weekend cleaning up the roof rust and I got some peal white (tower paint) on it. It's not a perfect match and will need to be buffed but it looks way better than it did. I don't really have good before pics but it was pitted with rust coming through some cheap white spray.

Before (prepping):

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After:

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Before:

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After:

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I also cleaned up the very rusty emblem recently and painted it. I debated on white (close to OG), grey and chocolate brown but I had this sail blue already and really like how it came out. I think I'll keep it for now.

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Ran When Parked
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:30 am    Post subject: CLR Reply with quote

Looks Great!

I bought a bottle of CLR, the same one shown in the picture. Also picked up a sack of lemons.

I have some stuff soaking in the lemons right now. I was too chicken to try the CLR first.

Did the CLR work well?
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks S-Bird,

The nose surface rust got the CLR treatment. I used the CLR with 0000 steel wool. It takes a lot of rubbing but it works. You could also probably knock off light surface rust with a buffer and some polishing compound.

Before:

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After:

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hoagy86
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man the roof turned out nice did u use any navel jelly or similar product on the rust or just wire wheel sanding or something interested to know if or how you treated the rust and were you able to remove it all? Looking good love all the improvements you've made since you got it.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Hoagy86!

I removed as much rust as I could with 3M rust/paint stripping wheels and wire wheels. I grind the rust until there is no red dust. Then clean area with grease and wax remover. Next I treat it with "Auto Tech" rust prep. It has phosphoric acid among other ingredients. You wipe off the residue and then primer sand primer sand etc and paint.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed the front bumper, headlights, emblem and new wipers:

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Also a quick shift kit, needs some adjustment but I think I'm gonna like it.

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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made an engine stand to simplify pulling the engine and working on it.

I ended up taking a couple inches off the legs but this is what it looks like:

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Enough clearance to slide jack under:

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And then just lower it to the ground once removed:

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The extra wood on the ends makes it easy to move around:

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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the opportunity while the engine was out to paint the engine compartment.

Before:

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After:

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I also repaired the battery tray. I know this isn't technically the "correct" way to approach this but this is what I did. I have solid metal all around the edges of my battery tray and the paint on that corner is perfect. I didn't want to have to burn through the paint on the corner and have to bodywork/repaint it. I think in my case this is a good solution.

I cut out the rust, cleaned the metal up and POR-15'd it. Then I cut the battery tray to fit. (I know it's not the '67 only tray, I didn't want to spend $100 on a battery tray just to cut it up.) I used a heavy duty adhesive and aluminium rivets and I'm happy with how it came out, very solid.

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Jerry
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Were you able to use that wheel I sent you?
I did not take a good look at it.

Bus is looking better & better.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not mounted the wheel you sent but it looks good to me. S-bird had it blasted and primed for me with a set he was blasting which was nice. Thanks for sending that rim Jerry, now I will have a spare!
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Jerry
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds like something Matt would do.
He's a swell guy.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 07, 2015 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I rerouted the fuel line:

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Purchased, cleaned and painted a new intake manifold, mine had a leak and was clogged:

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Cleaned up and painted heater boxes:

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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The motor got a deep cleaning today, this is during:

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I also cleaned up and painted more engine tin but that pic didn't turn out too well, I need to get a decent camera.
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is coming along.

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Ran When Parked
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 11:45 am    Post subject: nice. Reply with quote

I see you get it done.

Nice personal touch on the tin!
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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks S-Bird! I can't stand not driving my bus so when its down I try to push through to get it back on the road.

Here's the first time pulling the engine vs now going back in:

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..and how it was before I cleaned it up and worked on it this time:

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Pinetops
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Part of the reason for pulling the motor was because I had low compression on cyl #1.

The numbers were:

90 (1)
130
125
120

I was obviously concerned that I may need to do a rebuild. I tried putting a little oil in the number 1 cylinder to test and see if the rings were bad but the compression remained at 90. So I was thinking maybe I had a burnt valve.

So I pulled the heads off and number 1 had a lot of carbon build up and actually all around the exhaust valve seat. The valve wasn't burned but it was a little pitted and I think that carbon was keeping it from seating properly. Even though the valve was in pretty good shape I put a new one in since I was there.

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I cleaned up both the heads and replaced the ancient pushrod tube seals and 4 tubes as well.

Well when I put the engine back in I hadn't adjusted the valves yet and I checked the compression on number 1 and I was in shock when I saw 80! I was very upset convinced that I'd have to rebuild. I went ahead and adjusted the valves and tested again and number 1 shot up to 120!! Very Happy The valves were way tight of course.

The motor is now sounding better than ever.


Link

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crofty
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Joined: August 09, 2000
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd suggest not using the long carb bolts for the spacer and instead use separate nuts/bolds for the manifold side and the short studs on the carb. I think you'll get a tighter seal and not risk any loosening due to vibration.
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