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Goldbug3318
Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2014
Posts: 210
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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 Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Looking good!!!
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1971 Super Beetle 1302S
1641 DP, lowered, 914's, etc...
1990 Ford Mustang Coupe
2008 Ford Mustang Coupe
2003 Chevy Corvette |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 9:12 am Post subject: Pop out window outer rubber tutorial part 1 |
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Okay class, today we are looking at the bug and saying, "Man! That pop out window rubber is hard and cracked and no longer sealing my car from the elements."
So I ordered new seals from Airhead Parts- they were like 14 dollars a pair!
There is a fused seam on the seal. Remember that.
It has to go at the seam for the window chrome which is at the front of the window.
Tools needed right now? A #2 Phillips screwdriver.
I removed the pop out arm first. Three screws
The result
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879
The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776
My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483 |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 9:40 am Post subject: Pop out window outer rubber change part 3 |
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Next, pop the window out at the rear.
Then pull the window aft off the pinch seam up front
Next lay the window down on and start pulling the old seal out. Be patient, it takes a second or two to find the sweet spot where it will pull out. I started it by grasping the seal and pushing it down and as the window was flat and out.
Then just pull it out and around.
My seal broke at the fused seam and I had to pull the remainder out from where I started going the opposite direction.
What your left with looks like this. It should be clean and free of residual rubber and you might want to inspect for cracks in the chrome trim. Mine was fine.
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879
The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776
My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483 |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:07 am Post subject: Pop out window seal outer rubber change part 4 |
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Tools needed for this phase: Windex and a hard plastic tool
Line up the fused seam with the seam in the chrome. Insert the back of the rubber in the channel and lubricate with Windex. Work it in gently
Continue...
I work about 2 inches at a time and re spray with Windex. Pull the seal tightly to aid in pushing the seal in with the tool. I find it easiest to insert the tool where I just pushed the seal in and then overlap the part that's sticking out. Rotate the tool in towards the seal and push down. You can hear the seal go "POP" when it is in place. It is slow going.
I'm going to continue on now, as this is making it take forever. I'll post up when done.
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879
The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776
My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483 |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 11:19 am Post subject: Pop out window outer rubber replacement part 5 |
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Well, let it be said again, that necessity is the mother of invention. I'll contact Airhead on Monday and see about getting a replacement. But I went ahead and cut the seal to straighten it out and have it installed on the window. I re sealed the rubber with some heat and a little contact cement. I believe that the seal fits tight enough now to prevent water intrusion so I may leave it like that. At 7 dollars per seal I cannot imagine they will want it back. Shipping would be not worth it.
The repaired fused seam
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879
The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776
My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483 |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 11:57 am Post subject: Pop out window outer rubber replacement part 6 |
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Alright, so once everything is on the window, installation is kind of the reverse. I say kind of because I did one step out of sequence. I attached the pop out handle basically second after putting the window back on the pinch seam. I'm working alone so that's for safety.
Installation steps (no pics)
1. Place window on pinch seam at B pillar
2. Attach pop out handle in the back and open the window
3. Slide the floating nut channel in between the B pillar and window.
4. Using a scratch awl through screw hole 2 from the top, attach screw one.
5. Install screw 3
6. Move scratch awl to screw hole 4
7. Install screw 5
8. Tighten these three screws.
9. Get the plastic hinge cover and the 2 countersunk screws and install the hinge cover.
10. Using the little plastic spatula, make sure the rubber is "out" and not rolled under all the way around.
11. Close the window and bask in your greatness with a cup of Starbucks coffee.
12. If you're really brave and the rest of the car is watertight, go to the car wash and try it out!
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879
The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776
My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483 |
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wcfvw69 
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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Nice work.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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So today, I was doing some reading on heat and found a really great thread by Made in Detroit. Awesome stuff and it got me to thinking. I've got some air leaks around the dash (ashtray, little holes here and there, etc.) and I wasn't sure if the rear seat floor heat doors were shut or not. Also have cool air coming out of the dash vents with the fresh air doors shut. 
I pulled the ash tray out and see a gap between the enclosure and the under side of the dash. Cut a piece of dense foam to fill that area.
The holes I'll get to later.
I ordered a set of fresh air intake door seals and the seal that goes between the box and the hood. That should help with the cool air out of the dash vents.
I've tried the defroster a couple of times and found that volume of air coming out is less than great. The floor vents for the front got rechecked. They open and close. The hoses in the black hole are installed with the three way deflectors. Everything is there. Under the seat I found the flaps open. The flapper doors were NOT installed on their pins inside the ducting.
I carefully, with flashlight and needle nose pliers, installed them on their pins and checked operation with the heater handle by the drivers seat. Up is open, down is closed. They are closed now. Floor vents are closed. Later tonight I'll take her for a spin and see if the defrost is any more impressive.
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879
The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776
My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483 |
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wcfvw69
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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I've found that closing all the vents does improve the flow to the defroster vents, BUT, it's still not enough to handle the moisture on a cold, wet day. Their is simply not enough volume or flow of air to keep the windshield dry. Back in the day, I'd carry a small kitchen towel w/me to wipe it down as well.
My 67 sedan heater works very well. On cold PHX mornings, low 30's (I know, not THAT cold) it'll cook me quickly and I barely have the handle open for the heat after the compartment is warm. I have ALL the original pieces in place on the engine. The thermostat, warm air tubes, etc.. It gets hot quickly as a result of those pieces being installed.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:44 am Post subject: Brakes... |
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I adjusted the brakes a couple of weeks back just like I've always done for the last 30 years. Spin the tire and adjust until you hear a light scraping and move on. Well, I'm here to tell you: I was wrong.
The pedal was going a little over half way and as long as I drive like I have no brakes ( using the engine to slow me down, don't tailgate, yatta yatta) I was fine. But what if I had to do a panic stop. I mean really, I live in Georgia, home of the stop and turn. People here seem to think that you have to come to a complete stop to make a right turn. And left turn lanes? Forget it, they don't know what those are at all.
So after some careful research on here, I pulled in the garage and put her up on jack stands. Then I adjusted all four wheels until I couldn't turn them any more. Got up pump the brakes. Check all four wheels and they all spin again! Hmmm. Adjust again, pump and and they spin again! Hmmm!! Adjust again, pump and the two front wheels still spin! Okay, getting closer. Adjust, pump and only one spins. Alright, now we're talkin! Adjust, pump and no spin! Good!
Now, I get underneath and adjust both stars an equal amount the opposite direction. In order to loosen the brakes back up. It ended up 2 clicks on the front wheels and three on the back.
I then brought her down off the jack stands and took her for a spin. All I can say is, WOW! I have great brakes again. I can honestly say I've never, ever adjusted brakes like this. I understand the principle behind it. Each time you adjust until the wheel doesn't turn and then pump the brakes it centers the shoes in the drum. That's why after pumping, the shoes seem to loosen up. They are still adjusted the same but because they're centered the one shoe that WAS holding the wheel from spinning moves back. It took several adjustments until the shoes were equally spaced away from the drum. Then adjusting them back in the same on both adjusters and both wheels allowed them to brake evenly.
In my test drive it only pulled to the right the first hard application of the brakes. After that, they were perfect. Thanks to all the posters on Samba! There is a wealth of information here.
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879
The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776
My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483 |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:15 am Post subject: |
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So much for the starter. Starter's been sounding awful for about a week. Sounds like its dragging and cranks very slowly. Crawled underneath at work and made sure the mount bolts were tight. After that it fired right up. Next day, same problem. And in the days that followed...
Last night, turned the key, idiot lights came on and dimmed ever so slightly, but no click, no crank, no nothing. Grabbed a screwdriver and crawled underneaath. When I shorted across the terminals nothing happened initially and then she cranked and started.
Today, she got a new starter. Happy to report, all is well again!
Why did I choose the starter? Well, because, new wire harness that is still clean. New battery and a new generator and regulator that puts out 14 volts. Besides that I had just changed a valve cover gasket and then the starter acted up. The valve cover gasket convinced me it was the starter.
_________________
My father's 1970 Beetle-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603879
The 1964...Diamond in the rough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612776
My 1958 Morocco Bug-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=611483 |
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:21 am Post subject: |
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| flyboy161 wrote: |
So much for the starter. Starter's been sounding awful for about a week. Sounds like its dragging and cranks very slowly. Crawled underneath at work and made sure the mount bolts were tight. After that it fired right up. Next day, same problem. And in the days that followed...
Last night, turned the key, idiot lights came on and dimmed ever so slightly, but no click, no crank, no nothing. Grabbed a screwdriver and crawled underneaath. When I shorted across the terminals nothing happened initially and then she cranked and started.
Today, she got a new starter. Happy to report, all is well again!
Why did I choose the starter? Well, because, new wire harness that is still clean. New battery and a new generator and regulator that puts out 14 volts. Besides that I had just changed a valve cover gasket and then the starter acted up. The valve cover gasket convinced me it was the starter. |
Autostick starter?
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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TX-73
Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2013
Posts: 1133
Location: Texas
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flyboy161
Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2009
Posts: 2091
Location: Perry, GA
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