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My Dad's '70 Bug - A year long restoration and continuing on
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

talljordan wrote:
It looks like CIP sells either the same one, or a very similar one for much less. ($170). Same part number and everything

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C16-113-051B

They also sell an el-cheapo which is apparently garbage.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-3606


just spoke to Cip1, the high quality one they sell its Chinese made.

The usa one is crap. Ive seen them in person. Really floppy.

Probably going with the steel reinforced westcoast one...
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talljordan
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm ok, fair enough.

Chinese doesn't always mean shit but it sure isn't a good sign. Did they comment on the fit and quality? I am tempted to try it out because I don't pay shipping with CIP so it would end up being around $200 cheaper.
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jhicken
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You get what you pay for. The Wolfsburg West dash is far superior to any of the competition in fit and finish. I bought one from a popular vendor that referred to it as OEW [it has a big VW logo embossed into it], after trying to install if for a couple hours, I dumped it and bought the WW dash. It went in like butter.

-jeffrey
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhicken wrote:
You get what you pay for. The Wolfsburg West dash is far superior to any of the competition in fit and finish. I bought one from a popular vendor that referred to it as OEW [it has a big VW logo embossed into it], after trying to install if for a couple hours, I dumped it and bought the WW dash. It went in like butter.

-jeffrey


I called Wolfsburg west, they get their dashpads from West Coast Metric Wink
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flyboy161
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great quality, to be sure.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:52 pm    Post subject: Wednesday- 20 August, 2014 Reply with quote

Updated list: right rear star adjusters cleaned an lubed. Brakes adjusted and waxed the car.

1. Dash lights inop- no power at the bulbs. Maybe switch
2. Rear shocks are shot.
3. Driver's door window regulator stripped- not just the crank but also the actual regulator shaft. (Regulator will be here Friday)
4. Left front turn signal is a little dim
5. Ball joint boots all shot
6. Left inner tie rod loose
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:15 pm    Post subject: Driving impressions Reply with quote

So far this week I've put 98.2 miles on the little bug. My gas tank tank is sitting between 1/2 and 3/4 tank. I'll top off the tank this weekend to check mpg.

Overall she drives very nice. Tracks straight down the road. I've checked camber angle on the front. It's off... Visibly off.
With a spec of 0 degrees 30' +/- 20' my camber is actually 3 degrees, so I guess I'll be doing an alignment pretty soon, probably Saturday. The tires are pretty well shot from sitting and who knows how old they are. I would not call them a hazard yet, but they should be replaced.

The car also makes a thumping noise from the rear when I hit any bump in the road. I've determined this is coming from worn out lower bushings in the rear shocks. I replaced the axles and CV joints back in 2009. We did not replace the shocks but I'm wondering if my Dad did and he might've tossed the little metal sleeve in the bushing. Won't know till I pop the bolts out. Another Saturday project.

Also, today when I adjusted the brakes, the left rear and right front adjusted easily. The right rear, as I mentioned before this required disassembly of the star adjusters and clean and lube. Now it works great. Wouldn't you know it? The left front wouldn't adjust! Right now everything is adjusted right, no pulling and plenty of stopping power so I'll just add that to my to-do list.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the shocks are not shot, sometimes having loose shock bolts makes a funny noise in the rear when going over bumps.

Also, You may want to look at NEXEN tires for your bug, at walmart.

Its what im running on mine. Still good after 12k miles.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Nexen-SB802-Tire-165-80R15/19473481
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Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
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1971 Green Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Order a set of rear shocks from Wolfsburg West. They have the same feel and dampening as the originals and are priced nicely. I installed them on my stock 69 and they are great.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will the 165-80r15 tires fit 5.5Jx15 rims?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

flyboy161 wrote:
Will the 165-80r15 tires fit 5.5Jx15 rims?


Yes.

-jeffrey
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Window regulator and new peanut bulbs are out for delivery. The rheostat portion of my headlight switch is most definitely bad causing the dash lights to not work. Amazingly though in my monkeying around with it they started working...in one specific spot on the switch. It's touchy, kind of like, pull the switch ON and then rotate the dimmer portion vigorously <sic> until the speedo lights come on and then just step away.

Ordered rear shocks but they won't be here until Monday.


So, up for tomorrow...
1. Window regulator
2. Change out the tie rod end
3. Front end alignment (camber adjust)
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Door regulator is done! Now working on the tie rod. It would be difficult of course. And it's the left inner

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air hammer made short work of the tie rod. Left front brake star adjusters cleaned and lubed. Next up? Alignment

Shocked
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toe in set to 1/8"

I don't have a wrench to fit the eccentrics on the upper ball joints, so camber adjustment will just have to wait.

Gonna take her for a spin now!
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flyboy161 wrote:
Toe in set to 1/8"

I don't have a wrench to fit the eccentrics on the upper ball joints, so camber adjustment will just have to wait.

Gonna take her for a spin now!


Nice job! FYI, you don't need a big wrench on that eccentric nut. Simply loosen the ball joint nut below it a fair amount. Leave the nut on there so if you miss on the next step, you won't damage the threads. Get a BFH and whack the spindle where the eccentric rests in. It should pop loose. Smack it until it does. Then get a pair of channel lock pliers to turn it. Understand it will have a small impact on the caster as well as you turn the adjuster. If you see the top of the spindle moving back towards the rear while adjusting the eccentric, that will increase the caster. The other way decreases it.

Once you done with that, make sure you recheck your toe setting. I know VW recommended 1/8" toe in but I found that 1/16" was the right setting when doing alignments on these bugs back in the early 80's to prevent outside tire wear.
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Last edited by wcfvw69 on Sun Aug 24, 2014 4:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got ya, so, I whack the spindle with the ball joint nut loose. Not whack the ball joint. Ball joint stays pressed in the eccentric nut. Ball joint nut is loosened to allow the eccentric nut to turn in the spindle.

Thanks, I had to type it out to visualize what was happening. I wouldn't have gotten the bit about caster either. Thanks, great advice!
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It took 7.933 gallons after going 182 miles. That was a week of adjusting carburetor, timing, and driving back and forth to work, most of which is 55mph. For 22.94 mpg. Hmmm, we'll see what the next tank does. I'm going out on a limb and say the carburetor could probably use an overhaul. It's not stellar mileage but after sitting for the last 3 years it's not too shabby either.

My other vehicles are a Jeep Wrangler that at best gets 14mpg and a BMW that averages 24 with air and a heavy foot, because the Bimmer wants to be driven that way.

But neither car gets the attention the little red bug gets
Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flyboy161 wrote:
I got ya, so, I whack the spindle with the ball joint nut loose. Not whack the ball joint. Ball joint stays pressed in the eccentric nut. Ball joint nut is loosened to allow the eccentric nut to turn in the spindle.

Thanks, I had to type it out to visualize what was happening. I wouldn't have gotten the bit about caster either. Thanks, great advice!


Yup, that's exactly it. I wouldn't worry too much about the caster though. Bugs were not sensitive to caster spread between the RF or LF wheels along as the spread wasn't 1* or more which usually indicated something was bent. When we saw a big spread in caster, it was usually a bent front beam that could straighten out on a frame machine.

To your comment about attention- You're right. It's amazing how much attention old VW's get. I have a restored 69 convertible and it's like I'm driving a Ferrari for the amount of attention, looks, thumbs up, etc.. that car gets.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This morning finish the alignment:

My passenger wheel checks at 3 degrees positive camber and drivers wheel at 1.5 degrees positive.

(Bentley says this has to be done with weight on wheels. I rationalize that lower trailing arm on Jack stand does the same thing. Besides, I'm 6'-2" and oldish and don't like laying on the floor anymore)

Step one jack vehicle and support lower trailing arm at the shock mount with a Jack stand.

Step two, remove tire
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Step three, loosen upper ball joint after soaking everything with PB Blaster.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Step four, get the BFH out and rap on the forward part of the ball joint mount on the spindle
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Step six, using a pair of channel locks, turn the eccentric nut
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Step seven, check the camber angle periodically and adjust as needed.
Mine now reads about a half a degree.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Super easy! Thanks Bill, for the advice!

I will recheck everything once it is on the ground. I have a digital protractor and then will convert it to degrees and minutes. Bentley says 0 degrees 30' +/- 20'. I think I'm in there!
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