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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:12 am Post subject: Still losing spark (solved ) |
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After having working through all the problems I've had in the last few weeks I still have a issues with losing spark. I thought I had it fixed with a new ground but the problem remains, but it seems to come and go.
What I'm doing, is hooking up a timing light and wiring the trigger on. This lets me see if I have fire.
When I first turn on the ignition switch, I get the little buzz sound. When I turn the key, I get fire but then it stops and as the engine turns over I get no more fire. However sometimes, not always it gets fire again as I release the key.
It seems to do this most often if the van is cold. Once it's been run for a bit, it will usually fire and start again.
What is worse is the problem seems to come and go. Might do it one day and then work fine for a week.
What I've done..
I've tried 3 different coils
I've swapped distributors
I've cleaned all my grounds and added a new ground strap.
When I check the voltage at the Hal sender plug, with the key on I'm over 10v was 11.something volts.
I've also manually activated the Hal unit or what ever the thing is that buzzes, by using a test light to the center pin and touching ground.
I'm not sure what else or how else to test anything I haven't already. Anyone have any ideas, because I can't keep having it go out like this.
**update**
I seemed to have narrowed it down, to most of the time being able to unplug the ECU and plug it back in. This usually allows me to get spark. However the issue is getting worse and it's happening pretty much every day and at least 50% of my start attempts.
Other things I've done..
Replaced the coil, rotor, cap.
Used a test jumper from the electrical box "hot" wire to the +15 on the coil.
Begged the van to start and cursed it when it didn't.
I'm still debating if lit match in gas tank will resolve the issue.
Update again..
Swapped out the ECU the engine now idles at first start and has started every time "so far". I still have a cold/warm start sputter/miss, but I'm hoping that will be resolved by changing the rubber gasket at the throttle body.
Will have to give it a few days before I know for 100% that the new ECU fixed the no spark issue. I still plan to order a new ignition switch.
Last update..
Made it a week with out a single loss of spark, so I'm calling it solved as being the replacement ECU fixed it. _________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion
Last edited by DAV!D on Mon Sep 01, 2014 5:18 pm; edited 6 times in total |
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Ahwahnee Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2010 Posts: 9798 Location: Mt Lemmon, AZ
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:37 am Post subject: |
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Possibly to be filed under "straws, Grasping at" but...
You might put a voltmeter on the battery and see how far the voltage drops while the starter cranks. I'm thinking a drop to about 10.5V is normal. A faulty starter could draw enough current that a cold engine would not get good spark.
My clue for the above is that it sometimes fires just after you release the key. That, plus the fact that it appears to be a starting problem rather than a running problem.
Then again, could be something entirely different. |
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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 11:09 am Post subject: |
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Ahwahnee wrote: |
Possibly to be filed under "straws, Grasping at" but...
You might put a voltmeter on the battery and see how far the voltage drops while the starter cranks. I'm thinking a drop to about 10.5V is normal. A faulty starter could draw enough current that a cold engine would not get good spark.
My clue for the above is that it sometimes fires just after you release the key. That, plus the fact that it appears to be a starting problem rather than a running problem.
Then again, could be something entirely different. |
Well I'm willing to grasp at anything, because I'm stuck in the woods on top of a mountain. Not that the scenery isn't nice, but I'd like the van to start.
As for the starter maybe being the issue. I just hooked up a voltage meter to it, and it only dropped to 11.3 - 11.5 range. To double down on that, I used my jumper cables to jumper over to my house batteries that are isolated from the van and still no change in the spark issue.
Was worth a shot though. _________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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crazyvwvanman Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2008 Posts: 9923 Location: Orbiting San Diego
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 11:18 am Post subject: |
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Put the voltmeter on the coil, the wiring post where the multiple black wires attach. Watch the reading while the engine cranks for several seconds or longer.
Mark
DAV!D wrote: |
Well I'm willing to grasp at anything, because I'm stuck in the woods on top of a mountain. Not that the scenery isn't nice, but I'd like the van to start.
...... |
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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 11:33 am Post subject: |
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crazyvwvanman wrote: |
Put the voltmeter on the coil, the wiring post where the multiple black wires attach. Watch the reading while the engine cranks for several seconds or longer.
Mark
DAV!D wrote: |
Well I'm willing to grasp at anything, because I'm stuck in the woods on top of a mountain. Not that the scenery isn't nice, but I'd like the van to start.
...... |
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I'm by myself, no way for me to do that. However what should I watch for if I get the opportunity? What sort of voltage levels? _________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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The buzzing could be the FP relay opening and closing, or the FP relay doing so. The problem could be the relay itself or the ignition switch. Good chance it could be a bad ground. A jumper from the B+ terminal on the alternator to the + terminal on the coil should give you a clue as to what is happening. |
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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Well good news is, I managed to get the van started and out of the woods. I drove it into Nederland, Co shut the van off and tried to restart it doesn't engage the starter at all.
It doesn't click like a bad solenoid just the buzzing and nothing more. I suspect that means it's likely something to do with the ignition switch.
Can anyone confirm that the ignition switch could also cause the van to get the intermittent spark while trying to start it?
When I did get it started, it was after I had been turning over the engine but the timing light showed no spark. When I let go of the key, the timing light flashed and the engine started. Once again pointing to the ignition switch or maybe the wire to the coil.
I'm wondering, if I can rig up a push button start switch as a work around until I can find a replacement ignition switch. Anyone have ideas on that? _________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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Ahwahnee Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2010 Posts: 9798 Location: Mt Lemmon, AZ
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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DAV!D wrote: |
...I'm wondering, if I can rig up a push button start switch as a work around until I can find a replacement ignition switch. Anyone have ideas on that? |
I used to have one to get the engine started when things got too hot and the starter wouldn't crank. I just wired a button in the back to provide 12v to the little wire on the starter. I think I just took the 12V from somewhere in the engine bay, the button was in the closet.
That set up is long gone as I installed what we now call a 'hot start relay'.
Whether that would work may depend on exactly what position on your ignition switch is faulty (if it is indeed faulty).
Meanwhile, park on a hill - lots of those along the Front Range. |
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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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Ahwahnee wrote: |
DAV!D wrote: |
...I'm wondering, if I can rig up a push button start switch as a work around until I can find a replacement ignition switch. Anyone have ideas on that? |
I used to have one to get the engine started when things got too hot and the starter wouldn't crank. I just wired a button in the back to provide 12v to the little wire on the starter. I think I just took the 12V from somewhere in the engine bay, the button was in the closet.
That set up is long gone as I installed what we now call a 'hot start relay'.
Whether that would work may depend on exactly what position on your ignition switch is faulty (if it is indeed faulty).
Meanwhile, park on a hill - lots of those along the Front Range. |
It's a auto.. so hill's don't help much..
As far as narrowing it down to the ignition switch.. Seems I'm back to square one as once I crawled under the van to try to start it at the starter I realize that somehow one of the starter wires had come off.
How that happened in the roughly 10 miles I drove it from out in the woods into the town is beyond me. Anyway, I put the wire back on and go it started again and I've started it twice since then.
I'm still at a loss because I know it's going to happen again and I still haven't figured out a cause. The ignition switch is now back to a "maybe" but no longer highly suspect.
I'm also somewhat suspect of the ECU. Prior to getting it started I noticed that after unplugging it and plugging it back in I had spark again. I dunno if that was just random or not.
I did put a new end on the ECU ground and moved it to where I added the second ground strap. However I was still getting intermittent spark at that point.
I'm really not sure what else to try at this point. The center wire on the Hal sender plug has some cracks in it, but the wires are not broken so I taped it up.
Ironically, I seemed to have fixed a problem that has long plagued this van, when I swapped distributors. I've had issues with this engine when I first start it, no matter if warm or cold, it would sputter very bad until I got it up to speed. After that it was fine. It also had a surging idle that would occur at various times.
Since I swapped out the distributor all that has gone away and once the van "starts" it's probably running better than I've ever had it run.
Go figure right? Now I just need to get it to start "all" the time.. lol
Anyway, this is a picture of were I camped out and then got stuck most of the today.. Could have been a worse spot to be broken down I guess..
_________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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Check the voltage between the + side of the coil and the engine block when you are cranking the engine. If it is too low the engine may not start until you release the key. A failing coil will require a higher voltage to fire than a good coil. |
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morymob Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2007 Posts: 4683 Location: east-tn
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:15 am Post subject: |
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Since it seems to be starting normally pullthe wire u found loose at starter , see if your cond returns if conn was a loose fit could count 4 intermitten start make sure its a tight fit.releasing ign key & starting, I would replace ign sw. |
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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, I didn't get to do much due to work today. However it has lost spark two times since yesterday when trying to start the engine and I've figured out something slightly strange.
Seems if I unplug the ECU and then plug it back in, I get spark to start the van on the next try. Seems anytime I lose spark, simply unplugging the ECU and plugging it back in gives it spark for at least one start attempt.
I'm not sure what to make of that, as all the pins on both the harness plug and the ECU seem fine. I don't happen to have a spare ECU lying around and I'm not real happy with the idea it might be a ECU issue.
Anyone have any ideas, before is start looking for a ECU?
Keep in mind this is a 2.1 engine and electronics in a 84 van. _________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50337
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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I would spray the contacts in the connecter with an electrical cleaner and then maybe something else designed for electrical use that would keep corrosion at bay. |
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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
I would spray the contacts in the connecter with an electrical cleaner and then maybe something else designed for electrical use that would keep corrosion at bay. |
Yes, I'll have to try that. I'm still going to replace the coil I think, but I'm really at a loss as to what simply unplugging the computer seems to allow me to get spark.
It makes me paranoid that something is going wrong with the ECU. It's really frustrating not being able to isolate the cause and fix it. _________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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Bump again for any new ideas..
The loss of spark issue is getting worse and worse. It went from randomly happening from time to time, to happening very regularly.
The problem seems to be solved temporally by unplugging the ECU and plugging it back in. However once the engine is warm, it's sometimes incredibly hard to get the van started a second time.. If will,fire and stall out soon as I put it into gear, over and over like it loses spark or something.
When I do get it started on a cold start, prior to it warming up completely, the van will often stall out and almost seems like it's losing spark at times if I'm at a red light or stopped. (Doesn't seem to do it at speed). Yet once the van is completely warmed up it runs great.
I'm trying to get my hands on a ECU from a guy that had it listed on CL but I've yet been unable to get a meet up time with him. This problem is getting worse which makes me scared what ever is causing it, will eventually fail leaving me stuck.
Is there anyone at all that has any other ideas as to what could cause this? I have to order a coil, so I can't replace that yet and I'm hoping the guy with the ECU will answer me back by this weekend.
I'm just at a loss of anything else to try at this point.
Again I want to mention, this is a 2.1 engine from my 86 with the Bosh electronics/ fuel injection. _________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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dhaavers Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010 Posts: 7754 Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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Anyone in your neighborhood that can swap in a KNOWN GOOD ECU? _________________ 86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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Ahwahnee Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2010 Posts: 9798 Location: Mt Lemmon, AZ
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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DAV!D wrote: |
...The problem seems to be solved temporally by unplugging the ECU and plugging it back in... |
If I recall correctly some later Vanagons have an issue with that ECU plug. A solution often mentioned is to mount the ECU upside down to change or alleviate the strain on the plug. I think this was just later Vanagons with the ECU under the rear seat.
I don't normally like to suggest something I am merely repeating and have no experience with -- but I think you're in the 'I'll try anything' mode. |
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DAV!D Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013 Posts: 979 Location: EL CAMINO
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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dhaavers wrote: |
Anyone in your neighborhood that can swap in a KNOWN GOOD ECU? |
The problem is it's intermittent but it's happening more and more often. Meaning I have to swap the ECU an drive it a bit to see if that fixes the problem.
My new coil is supposed to be here tomorrow and I just bought a new cap & rotor, despite the current one having less than 10k miles on it. I really have nothing else I can try other than just swapping parts.
Ahwahnee wrote: |
DAV!D wrote: |
...The problem seems to be solved temporally by unplugging the ECU and plugging it back in... |
If I recall correctly some later Vanagons have an issue with that ECU plug. A solution often mentioned is to mount the ECU upside down to change or alleviate the strain on the plug. I think this was just later Vanagons with the ECU under the rear seat.
I don't normally like to suggest something I am merely repeating and have no experience with -- but I think you're in the 'I'll try anything' mode. |
Well it's a 84 Westy with a 86 2.1, but I couldn't mount the ECU under the seat, I instead put it in behind the drivers side tail light. _________________ 86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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geo_tonz Samba Member
Joined: August 01, 2012 Posts: 1472 Location: Courtenay, BC, CANADA
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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Seems like you started down the ignition switch road, then backed away from it...have you eliminated that? It is a cheap replacement that takes 2 minutes to swap out and is a common point of failure, especially if you had problems before that required a lot of cranking. The switch heats up and deforms and you get various intermittant failures.
The next time it fails to start try this (quote from thatvwbusguy I just posted in another thread):
Quote: |
Here is the procedure to crank the starter via the ignition switch socket. I copied this from a post a while back and can't remember who originally wrote it at this point. Anyway, here goes.......
Ignition Switch Bypass - Jumper Wire Starting Method:
Remove the plastic cover from the steering column and pull the black socket off the bottom of the ignition switch.
Insert a jumper wire between the large red wire and the solid black wire (a bent paper clip works well, but will get hot, so be careful). You should hear the fuel pump run at this point.
If you hear the fuel pump, leave the first jumper (large red to black) in place and insert another jumper wire between the large red wire and the red/white wire. This is your starter wire.
The engine should turn over at this point. If the engine starts, remove the big red to red/white jumper wire immediately. If you don't remove this jumper, the starter will continue to run just like holding the key in the start position.
This is essentially how to hotwire a Vanagon, but since the ignition steering lock is still in place, you can easily defeat any would be Vanagon heist by leaving the wheels turned into the curb when you park... |
It might just work and the fix will cost you around $12. _________________ ---------------------------------------------------
"Ron Burgundy": 1991 Vanagon Multivan (Weekender) 2.1L Auto - Driver/Camper |
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Tom Powell Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2005 Posts: 4855 Location: Kaneohe
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Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 12:45 am Post subject: |
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DAV!D wrote: |
... Can anyone confirm that the ignition switch could also cause the van to get the intermittent spark while trying to start it? ... |
I will confirm that the ignition switch could cause the symptoms you describe. Sometime, somewhere in my lifetime I had a car with an engine that would turn over in the start position, but would not start. When the key was released the engine would start as the starter wound down. I never resolved the idiosynchrocy because it was never a problem to start the engine with the release to run position technique.
On a Vanagon I've had dying problems that were solved with another ECU.
I have purchased and used the ECU monitor made by Shoebox Electronics and sold by VanCafe.
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1628_810/8691-shop-ecu-monitor-system.html
and found it to be very helpful in diagnosing Vanagon problems. Not inexpensive but a useful tool. You can download and read the instruction manual at
http://www.van-cafe.com/shop/images/ecumanual.pdf
The manual contains information on the workings of the Vanagon ECU and components and is a good read even if you don't purchase the monitor.
Aloha
tp |
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