Sandblasting pans... Advice

[STLCAR]

The 74 I bought has some areas on the pans that are rusted through so I am planning on replacing the full pans with CIP1 pans. I have found a 40 gallon blaster, new cabinet and spot blaster on our local CL for $250. I was thinking of blasting it myself but thought I would get everyone's opinions. I have asked some of the pros on here but wanted to get everyone's opinion on how I should proceed. I am wondering what order you guys would attack this in. I have searched all threads just looking for other opinions

I am not sure if I should replace the pans then blast the whole car, blast the car then replace pans, disassemble the whole car and blast all the pieces....

Some people have said to blast it then prime right away, do I prime everything on the car or disassemble. Prime with rattle paint, POR15, red oxide in a garden sprayer....

If I blast myself how long do I have to prime it all before it starts to rust again.

For around $600 a local guy will blast and powder-coat the chassis, do I need to disassemble everything....


Sorry for all the questions just very new (as you can tell) at all of this and don't want to screw it up.

[Shoyrtt]

[liken127]

I striped my 74 all the way down! It had some good rust spots, the battery box was bad cut it out hade a new piece made, then a good water blast.
And then to the power coater, he also does the blasting. It turned out great!
Worth the $. I think I was into it for about $ 600.00. well worth It.
Good luck on your car!

[citroen]

You know that you can go to our website and see how we ( The Domeck Brothers) have done the things that we have restored
http:// www.kubeltreffen181.com

[STLCAR]

Thanks for the advice, I have checked the site and hope one day my work will be a fraction as good as your guys. I was more wondering should I do it myself, buy the blaster and try and do it all together. Take it somewhere as a whole, strip it down and take it to someone... Soda vs Sand... Primers to use...

[Ron Domeck]

If you buy a blaster you will spend a lot to get a unit that will work and a large compressor to power it. The shop you found to blast and powder coat, how were they doing this without taking apart? Most ovens are about 400 degres. What about seals and rubber parts and bearings? When we talked I said we have taken complete rolling pans but only to blast then bring home to take apart. Now if $600 they do all the parts, axles, arms, brakes, backing plates, steering, etc. that is a good price.

[KAmes]

The consumer grade blasters that I have used only seem to cover a few inches at a time, it would take a long time and a lot of media to do something as large as a car. I could imagine getting to $600 in sand alone really fast.

[GI Joe]

As Ron pointed out, you have a lot of susceptible parts on the suspension... Seals, bushing, bearings, all with get destroyed by blast media(if not during the blast, theN Certainly not long after it's back in use)..

I'd take the whole pan down to separate components and then have your blaster have his way with it all... They'll get a more thorough blast this way as well, which will lend to the paint adhering Much better and lasting longer!

Or take it as a whole and let them blast it, and bring it home for disassemble and minor local cleanup(where components were attached/covering), and paint it all yourself. Master series is an awesome product, or the tried and true P oR15 is always a favorite...

Either way, keep us posted and pics are desired!!
You've gotten a lot done so far, good job!
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[CraigInPA]

If you've never sandblasted (or media blasted) before, you should be aware that it's going to take you a LOT longer than you expect to bring the car down to bare metal. The larger the area covered at once, the larger the compressor needed. If you look at the commercial guys, they have compressors that look like they have a V8 engine in them. Small, home compressors will do the job, but you'll be shooting a 1/2" diameter spot, which, if you're not careful, will lead to panel heating and warping. You'll want to have a full mask or hood respirator to do sand or media blasting, even if outdoors. Silicosis is a terrible condition you want to avoid. Most of the mobile blasters in my area use baking soda instead of sand. While not as abrasive, or as cheap as sand, it does clean up a lot easier and is safer for the blaster.

Once you've done the blasting, you'll then see spots where you might braze some small rust through, other spots where you'd want to put on a small patch panel, and other areas that are just so extensively rusty that you just want to replace that part of the pan.

I'd put that blaster back on craigslist, disassemble, and send the pan/chassis to the guy who will blast and powder coat for $600.

When I've had cars blasted and not primed, they looked great for almost a week, and then, in the humid summer of Philadelphia PA, began to start to pick up tiny spots of rust. I'd recommend priming or powder coating in the first day or two after taking it down to bare metal.