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LouDog333 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2014 Posts: 6 Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:47 pm Post subject: Steering column questions |
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Hi,
I recently purchased an old Manx on a 62 pan. The car is rough and I am currently planning the fixes and updates needed. One of the things I would like to do is use a later model steering column with the dimmer and wiper controls in the steering column. I've been given a lot of conflicting information about this, so I'm hoping you guys can set me straight!
Questions:
1. What years/models have the steering columns that I described?
2. Can a Super Beetle column be used in a Manx style buggy i.e. is the length correct?
3. Someone told me that they took the outer cover off of a 69 column in order to eliminate the ignition switch and lock. The column he showed me looked like an early style column, but had the dimmer control. Is this correct and what columns (years) can this be done to?
Thanks in advance for your help!!!
-Louie |
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tubbyfirefighter Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2012 Posts: 28 Location: Muhlenberg Kentucky
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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No clue on stock applications, I went with an ididit old school column, but they have some nice ones with dimmers and switches, and tilt too. ididit.com |
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LouDog333 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2014 Posts: 6 Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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Hi TFF,
I'm familiar with the Ididit columns > used one in my Camaro. They're not as clean as the VW OEM stuff > they rely on American Autowire relay kits in order to actuate the dimmer and wipers.
Thanks for the thought though!
-Louie |
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tubbyfirefighter Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2012 Posts: 28 Location: Muhlenberg Kentucky
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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I'm still trying to figure how to mate it to the steering box and every thing in my car is on toggle |
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LouDog333 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2014 Posts: 6 Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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Let me know how it works out; that may end up being plan "B". |
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weasel_ugs Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2012 Posts: 721 Location: Prescott Valley,Az.
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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I know the '70 column I have has what you are looking for, if I remember correctly my '69 was the same way.
edit: didnt see the wiper part so Im not sure now. they do have dimmer control though. |
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LouDog333 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2014 Posts: 6 Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Weasel,
Thanks for the info!
It looks like they had wipers on the column from 72-79, but I'm not sure about the particulars.
-Louie |
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Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20380 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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If you are looking for a "out of the box" solution you have a long search.....
FIRST....... Find a steering column that fits your needs aestetically and electrical features.... What you select will dictate how you proceede..
Make up mounts and brackets and place column where you want it....
Build whatever link you need to get colum attached to steering box, look out side VW world for "U" joints and shafts.... Keyword here is "adapt"....
As for electrical, again the keyword is "adapt".... There is 10000 electrical solutions out there, this where you learn how to get 'connected'.....
Good luck...
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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LouDog333 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2014 Posts: 6 Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Dale,
I'm not looking for bolt-in, zero hassle solution. What I'm looking for is something that gives me a reasonable expectation of success.
I'm hoping to find a Beetle column so that the length & splines are correct. More importantly, I can get replacement switches, etc.
I can sort out the wiring and fab the brackets, that's not a big deal.
Thanks!
-Louie |
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RedBaronofRedBud Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2013 Posts: 505 Location: Southeast Missouri
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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What about the Flaming River tilt columns?
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0002
I am considering one of these for the next buggy. Good, bad or ugly? _________________ Or you can call me………Tim
My two pennies…your mileage may vary
I’m not a complete idiot, there are parts missing |
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LouDog333 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2014 Posts: 6 Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Tim,
Thanks for the suggestion. The Flaming River columns are similar to the Ididit units. In order to have the dimmer & wiper controls on the column you need to add the American Autowire relay kits = about another $200 on top of the already expensive cost of the column.
I'm just trying to figure out what OEM VW column will work. It's been done before, I just don't have all the info. I'm hoping to pick up the column cheap, do a quick rebuild, and run it!
Thanks!
-Louie |
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GS guy Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2007 Posts: 968 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 4:15 am Post subject: Re: Steering column questions |
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LouDog333 wrote: |
Hi,
3. Someone told me that they took the outer cover off of a 69 column in order to eliminate the ignition switch and lock. The column he showed me looked like an early style column, but had the dimmer control. Is this correct and what columns (years) can this be done to?
Thanks in advance for your help!!!
-Louie |
Louie,
I have a column in my Deserter that has only the turn signal function (not wiper), but it also had the locking column and key in column - I think it is around a '70 model? I removed the key and lock from the column because I wanted a cleaner look and newer options for the key switch (I'm using a Ron Francis ignition switch). I modified the cover on mine to be symmetrical on both sides (without the bulge for the switch) and it came out pretty clean looking, appearing finished and OEM in appearance.
Jeff _________________ 70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS! |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 5157
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Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 6:37 am Post subject: |
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I have used tilt columns on my last 3 projects (Manx, Avenger & Deserter). The Manx and Deserter used the stainless Flaming River units. The Deserter used a knock off chrome EBAY version.
Here is my feedback: The Flaming River columns are top notch. They are built well and fit nicely. The horn, turn signal & flasher wiring is a snap. I left both in the raw stainless state and I think that they might attract some dirt & grime so they would require some upkeep.
The chrome knock off from EBAY was also pretty good. It seemed alot heavier than the Flaming River unit. The chrome seemed thick. The tilt mechanism also seemed OK. The flasher unit seemed very flimsy. You really needed to be careful with it. I could see it breaking with any repeated use if you weren't very careful. One thing to note (on your second column) is that they come with a 9 (corrected...thanks Karu!) bolt adapter. Steering wheels that fit that are generally pretty expensive.
The last one you posted would not really allow for turn signals, horn, or flashers. I personally think that should be a last option.
Another tip is to search CraigsList. I got the two Flaming River columns off of there and they were much cheaper.
Last edited by jspbtown on Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:21 am; edited 1 time in total |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:52 am Post subject: |
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jspbtown wrote: |
I have used tilt columns on my last 3 projects (Manx, Avenger & Deserter). The Manx and Deserter used the stainless Flaming River units. The Deserter used a knock off chrome EBAY version.
Here is my feedback: The Flaming River columns are top notch. They are built well and fit nicely. The horn, turn signal & flasher wiring is a snap. I left both in the raw stainless state and I think that they might attract some dirt & grime so they would require some upkeep.
The chrome knock off from EBAY was also pretty good. It seemed alot heavier than the Flaming River unit. The chrome seemed thick. The tilt mechanism also seemed OK. The flasher unit seemed very flimsy. You really needed to be careful with it. I could see it breaking with any repeated use if you weren't very careful. One thing to note (on your second column) is that they come with a 10 bolt adapter. Steering wheels that fit that are generally pretty expensive.
The last one you posted would not really allow for turn signals, horn, or flashers. I personally think that should be a last option.
Another tip is to search CraigsList. I got the two Flaming River columns off of there and they were much cheaper. |
jsptown, thanks for your detailed review. I am leaning towards ebay column. They mention that it is a 9 bolt style pattern!
Hope I am not highjacking this thread. One last question and I will stop.
jsptown, how did you adapt the ebay column to vw steering box? |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 5157
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Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:16 am Post subject: |
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9 hole is correct...elderly brain fart. They are usually very expensive steering wheels.
To adapt to the vw column I used 2 Borgeson u-joints and an extension. The first u-joint is a 1"DD x 3/4"DD. The 1"DD attaches to the column and the 3/4"DD attaches to the 3/4"DD extension.
The second u-joint is where you need to do a little work. There is no real aftermarket joint that slides on that fits a 1"DD. You need a 5/8"x36 spline CHRYSLER x 3/4"DD (part #014921) joint. Obviously the 3/4"DD mates up with the 3/4"DD shaft extension. To make the other end fit the VW box I do the following:
1. Drill a second locating hole 90 degress from the existing hole. Tap it for 1/4"x20.
2. Take a dremel and slowing grind away the internal splines of the joint. You don't want to remove them all, there should still be a shadow of them remaining. I use a stone and sanding drum to accomplish this. You want to remove material, then test fit (on a VERY clean steering box shaft), then remove more, then test fit...and so on and so forth. Don't sand in one spot to long. You want the hole to remain round. The remaining spline depth is a good indicator.
3. Once you have a tight fit, slide the joint on the steering box shaft and align the existing dimple on the shaft with one of the set screw holes. Then mark the location of the second set screw hole on the shaft with a punch or marker.
4. Remove the ujoint and, with a grinder, grind a small flat into the steering box shaft. Don't be afraid to make a nice divot, but don't go crazy. You can also flatten out the existing dimple a little as well.
5. I then use some loctite on the shaft and set screws. |
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karu Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2008 Posts: 229 Location: Cross Lanes, WV
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Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:00 am Post subject: |
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jspbtown wrote: |
9 hole is correct...elderly brain fart. They are usually very expensive steering wheels.
To adapt to the vw column I used 2 Borgeson u-joints and an extension. The first u-joint is a 1"DD x 3/4"DD. The 1"DD attaches to the column and the 3/4"DD attaches to the 3/4"DD extension.
The second u-joint is where you need to do a little work. There is no real aftermarket joint that slides on that fits a 1"DD. You need a 5/8"x36 spline CHRYSLER x 3/4"DD (part #014921) joint. Obviously the 3/4"DD mates up with the 3/4"DD shaft extension. To make the other end fit the VW box I do the following:
1. Drill a second locating hole 90 degress from the existing hole. Tap it for 1/4"x20.
2. Take a dremel and slowing grind away the internal splines of the joint. You don't want to remove them all, there should still be a shadow of them remaining. I use a stone and sanding drum to accomplish this. You want to remove material, then test fit (on a VERY clean steering box shaft), then remove more, then test fit...and so on and so forth. Don't sand in one spot to long. You want the hole to remain round. The remaining spline depth is a good indicator.
3. Once you have a tight fit, slide the joint on the steering box shaft and align the existing dimple on the shaft with one of the set screw holes. Then mark the location of the second set screw hole on the shaft with a punch or marker.
4. Remove the ujoint and, with a grinder, grind a small flat into the steering box shaft. Don't be afraid to make a nice divot, but don't go crazy. You can also flatten out the existing dimple a little as well.
5. I then use some loctite on the shaft and set screws. |
Thanks!!!!! |
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lil-jinx Samba Member
Joined: August 14, 2013 Posts: 1109 Location: New Brunswick,Canada
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Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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I use a tilt column from a 1990 astro van,and adapted it,and put a grant wheel on it, works well $40.oo for the column. |
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jpfahrstar Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2003 Posts: 43 Location: Columbia, MD
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Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:20 pm Post subject: Re: Steering column questions |
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[quote="GS guy"]
LouDog333 wrote: |
Hi,
Louie,
I have a column in my Deserter that has only the turn signal function (not wiper), but it also had the locking column and key in column - I think it is around a '70 model? I removed the key and lock from the column because I wanted a cleaner look and newer options for the key switch (I'm using a Ron Francis ignition switch). I modified the cover on mine to be symmetrical on both sides (without the bulge for the switch) and it came out pretty clean looking, appearing finished and OEM in appearance.
Jeff |
Jeff ,
Do you have any pictures of how your column mod turned out? Or any more specifics on how you did the mod? I want to do the same thing to my '68 column.
Thanks,
John |
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GS guy Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2007 Posts: 968 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:01 am Post subject: |
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John,
Here are a couple of pics I coud dig up. Not the best views, but best I have at the moment.
The VW housing is a die cast aluminum (or similar), so I used a curved piece of aluminum of similar thickness and JB "Welded" it into the opening - while the housing was clamped onto the tube. Finished it up with standard bodywork techniques on the outside (don't mind the scratches, tape, etc. in the photos - it was all refinished and painted after doing all the installation mock-up work going on at the time these photos were taken).
Jeff _________________ 70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS! |
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