'74 914 - how to restart engine after few years

[krisgreenbug]

I just got a '74 914 that has been sitting for a few years. I am completely new to it. Had few beetles in the past but never one of these. I Want to start with checking if the engine is worth anything. Obviously I am not planning to just attach battery and crank it - what would be the best approach to start re-start it safely? I will post some pictures later.

[raygreenwood]

That really depends on your time and abilities and what you plan to do with this engine if you get it restarted....and how it was stored ...and what the ambient conditions are for where it was stored (humidity etc.).

For example if the engine is in over all really good shape and if you are looking to drive it quite a while...like a couple years...before undertaking a detailed overhaul, you would want to do as little damage as possible on the start up.

The method I would use is a little tedious but it will not only preserve whats there if its worth preserving...and at the same time tell you if its worth saving or starting over.

Again...it depends on if you have some work space, time and ability.

I am just going to assume its fuel injected. Fuel system first
drain and clean tank
replace fuel filter
replace lines that are hard and old
flush system from gas gan with pump running and this will also test the pump
new injector seals
check and fix every vacuum line and seal.....no vacuum leaks of any size allowed
Test injector spray pattern with Key on.

From here...many would just squirt some oil into the spark plug holes and go from there. Not me.

If it has frozen valves or rust on cylinders...what could have been a simple fix is now wasted parts that could have had many more miles on them.

I would get a gasket set and pull the engine, pull the heads and inspect for cylinder wall rust.
If you have light cylinder rust, clean it up at worst with a scotch brite pad. At best you could pull the cylinders and do a light slow hone with a 320-400 grit bottle brush hone (if you have one)....maybe 10-15 strokes....thats all half in each direction.

Check for crank end play while you are here. If its off..put in new front and rear main seals and set the end play.

If it was an original motor or if the PO did not get the memo...if it has factory head gaskets...get rid of them now. If they are original...if they are not leaking they will be.

If it had head gaskets...and you had cylinder rust...this is double incentive to remove the cylinders and either light hone or scotch brite...and then you can lap them into the heads for best seal.

While you are here...take 10 minutes and check the valve condition...straight and level stems. Then pour some solvent in the ports and check for leaks. If it is good...great!

If not...borrow a spring compressor and lap the valves and check again.

Its optional if everything looks good..and while cylinders are off the pistons....to measure across the skirts with a micrometer. If it all looks good....you have a great engine possibly.

So with an afternoon of time and about $75 in parts (the gasket kit and some bits and pieces).....what you will get is the knowledge of what is good.
If it all looked ok....what you end up with is a good used engine with clean cylinders, valves that are sealing, rings that are at least nominal, no oil leaks from PR tubes and cylinder base gaskets and new rear and main seals.

Check compression...and do a leak down test...and start it. Ray

[krisgreenbug]

Thank you Ray. I believe the car has a carburator (I will take a closer look tonight), If so it will be a little less work. How difficult is it to pull engine from 914, it must be more involved than from the Beetle?

[raygreenwood]

Its actually about the same but is easiest to remove with the transmission and exhaust system attached.

A good floor jack and some cheap dollies or skids to support everything.

If its got one of those damn center mounted carbs...which rarely run very well and are generally horribly rich...because they are not designed for long unheated manifolds...expect that things may not be in the best shape.

I.e.....nasty oil with fuel in it, carbonized heads and valves etc.....but it could mechanically be in great shape. Still worth it to do this way.

Clean and drain tank, replace fuel filter, remove and clean up carb and make sure the float is working and floatbowl is clean....replace and the fuel system is at least ready for starting. Ray