Noise while turning right

[Jay-C58]

Yesterday we were on our way back from a camping trip in our 77 Westy and we noticed a grinding or rubbing type noise that went with rotation of the wheels. We mainly noticed this as we were slowing down (probably because of less wind/road noise) but it was still present without applying the brakes.

Now for a little background info. I find that if I leave the parking brake engaged for a while (day or more) more often than not the brakes seem to make noise for a while. Because of this, I was thinking that the noise yesterday was related. The only difference was that it didn't seem to be going away.

This morning I went for a drive to see if the noise was still there and hopefully pinpoint its source. Noise was there but was intermittent so I checked some more and noticed it only seemed to be noisy on right hand turns.

So I came home, parked in the garage and went to work on investigating. Both front wheels make a slight rubbing sound from the brakes when jacked up and rotated (I believe a little rubbing is normal). Neither side has movement when rocked from top and bottom to check bearings. The RF wheel bearings were replaced by the previous owner 4 years ago (have the receipt) but the LF were only repacked.

Long story short, does this sound like it could be the LF wheel bearings? I have read that sometimes when the bearings and going they may make noise while driving but not when jacked up as there is no stress on them.

Thoughts?

[71whitewesty]

My guess is the cv joints. I had the same sound and also took off the front wheel thinking it was the bearings but ended up being just the cv joint.
Just a two cent guess though. Someone else with more experience will chime in.
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71 Westy 1600 DP, all stock Bus 1
1970's Snow Trac 1600 SP (sold 12/2016)
1968 Tucker sno cat, sold 2021
1969 Tucker Sno cat 542
2017 VW Alltrac
71 tin top stock 1600 DP (project but runs)
Twin 71 White Westy, Bus 2, that I pulled from a 15 year slumber in a dry eastern WA field in 2015.
1966 Sundial Camper "Boomer"

[Danwvw]

The CV's are in the rear.

At first when reading your post I thought you may have a stick or tumble weed stuck under your Bus, I got a stick in my disc brakes once! But sounds like you have inspected it thoroughly though. If your bus if left without being driven for long periods of time though the brake calipers will get sticky causing problems like your having. They clean up pretty easy if you disassemble them and clean those square o rings with paint thinner or something then re-lube them with good quality caliper grease. It may be a wheel bearing as they will complain more under a load when on the outside of a turn. Usually you can feel a bad wheel bearing just by jacking it up and grabbing the wheel and rotating it you can feel a bit of roughness when it's turned. I would just clean up the calipers and re-pack the front wheel bearings and see if it clears up!
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Manfreds78bay]

Have your lug nuts come loose? I had a creaking type sound coming from a wheel and that was the issue.
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1978 2.0L FI Campmobile

1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI

[merlinj79]

Early CV symptom is a usually a clunking noise when turning.

Normal for brake pads to rub slightly when wheel is jacked, but you should be able to turn it by hand without excess force. Both sides should feel about the same, if one side takes more force to turn then it might be hanging up.

I might suspect the LF bearing as well, it's not too hard to take apart and inspect.
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Rick
"Pumpkin II"
Stock 2L FI '77 Westy
CA Smog Stuff

[richparker]

I'd say check the passanger side CVs out, since it's when you are turning right. I've been running a clicking CV since Truckee, Ca. That was 3000 miles and 8 weeks ago. They are strong. I will be replacing mine in 2 weeks. Good luck.
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’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build

[Jay-C58]

I don't think it's the CVs because it's not a clicking or clunking sound. It's more of a grinding almost like metal on metal.

Of course I could be wrong. What is the best way to check if a CV is going bad?

[Jay-C58]

Ok, so now I'm really puzzled. I just went for a drive around the block and asked my wife if she could stand outside and listen to where the noise is coming from. I come around the corner and no noise. I drive around the block again and no noise. However, I do notice that my speedometer is not working (it's always worked in the past).

I then drive around the neighbourhood to give a good test and eventually the speedo starts working again. All is well on the noise front but I decide to keep going and do a good test. Just before I head home I hear the noise again and lo and behold, the speed has stopped working. I keep driving and the speed starts working and the noise goes away.

I am now thinking that the sound is in some way related to the speedo cable/mechanism rubbing. I will have to crawl under there later and give it a check.

Anyone ever have issues like this?

[Manfreds78bay]

Your speedo cable might be dragging on the ground. It should plug in to the driver side front wheel
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1978 2.0L FI Campmobile

1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI

[Tcash]

Hi
Pull the hub cap off and look for the #1 clip holding the speedo cable to the grease cap. If this is missing, it allows the cable to slide out of the grease cap.

Good Luck

[Jay-C58]

Just checked the cable and sure enough I am missing the "C" clip. I pulled the cable back through and will wire it in place until I get a new clip. Don't know if this is the cause of my problem though. I will go for another drive after supper and report back.

[Jay-C58]

Well speedo is fixed but it wasn't the cause of my problem. Had the wife listen again while I coasted down the street and turns out the noise is coming from the driver's side rear.

The sound was also present while driving in a straight line but it was quiet and could only be heard with the engine off.

Looks like I'll have to check that wheel tomorrow. Still sounds like brakes dragging or possibly wheel bearing. Hopefully it's something simple.

[Tom Powell]

[SGKent]

1) re-tighten all the lug nuts on the wheels

2) Going slow with your wife listening again, lightly depress the brakes. See if the noise gets louder

3) Going slow with your wife listening again, hold the e-brake turned like to release it and gently pull it to see if the noise changes.

4) Going slow with your wife listening again, weave the car just a tiny bit and see if the noise changes.

When you pull the wheel on that side, 2,3 and 4 will help you figure out what it may or may not be. Look for wear on the backing plate. Also before you pull the wheel off, rock it at 12 and 6, and 3 and 9 to see how much play. Compare it to the other side.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Jay-C58]

Found the source of my problem. Took off driver's rear drum and out falls the parking brake lever anchor pin, washer, and horseshoe clip. Somehow it all fell apart and were scraping around the inside of the drum.

Of course there's a little bit of damage to the rear shoe and drum but I don't think it's too bad.

Now, is there a way to reattach this without disassembling the brake system? I don't have a big enough socket to remove the hub at the moment but would like to secure the lever for the time being.

[raygreenwood]

If you dont have one....go to harbor freight (drive a different vehicle obviously) and buy a double ended tool for removing those little disc retainers on top of the springs that hold the brake shoes to the backing plate.
The tool runs about $4 at harbor freight and about twice that at most FLAPS.

Remove the shoe retainer with the tool. Clean the rust from the hole and the shoulder pin. Make sure that the washer you are using for under the clip is a wavy style tension washer.

The clip should cit in the groove and then use a pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze the two end tangs of the clip so it is slightly smaller than the pin diameter. These clips are made of soft alloy to do this easily.
It is common for owners to think this is wome kind of spring tension clip. It is not. It is made to be deformed.

You. An buy brand new clips at Ace Hardware....they have a whole drawer box of different sizes.....or at NAPA for sure....and some FLAPS in the "help" section.

When you put the shoe back on...align it properly with one hand and insert the pin back through from the other side with the other hand.
Hold it all in place while you pick up the retainer tool. Put the retainer in the appropriate end before you begin. Push yhe reatiner onto the pin making sure the flat patt fits through the slot. Push in to compress the spring and turn 1/4 turn to lock. Straighten/align the shoe....done. Ray

[Jay-C58]

Thanks for the tip Ray. I do not have retaining pins/springs on mine (no holes for them in the backing plate). I was wondering if it is possible to remove and reinstall the return springs with the hub in place. It looks like the rear shoe has to be removed to reinstall the parking brake lever anchor pin and clip.

I'm sure I can remove the shoe with the hub on but I don't think there is enough room to reattach the springs with the hub in the way. Am I correct in thinking this?

[Tom Powell]

[busdaddy]

You can put the arm on the shoe and attach the cable ahead of time, then put the springs and spreader on and manipulate the whole assembly over the hub (rotate that notch in the edge to allow parts to pass), then put the lower ends of the shoes in the adjusters and finally put the shoes into the cylinder one at a time (make sure the slots in the pistons line up).
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[raygreenwood]