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Our first Vanagon - A Turbo Diesel for a USA roadtrip
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VwTravis
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I will have to give the 3M stuff a try. It was expensive and I was unsure the results I would get so I stuck with the middle of the road stuff. I also liked the idea that the meguires was a single product for cutting and polishing saving me a good amount of money on product.


That 3m stuff is good. Only negative is that it can wear the paint down to the primer if you are not careful. I think Mothers and Maguires make similar products. I went a little crazy with my Westy. First I wet-sanded with 1000 grit then 1500 grit then 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound then Mothers Compound, Polish, and Wax. Its really something when you wipe that residue off and see the shinny paint underneath. Its like giving the old girl a new paint job.
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chrissev2
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Our first Vanagon - A Turbo Diesel for a USA roadtrip Reply with quote

Just reading "bought with a broken timing belt" and kind of trying not to wince. Whenever I hear about a VW diesel with a broken timing belt, I start thinking of bent valves and cracked pistons with little pieces of valve wedged in places you'd never imagine.
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BlueTucker
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 10:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Our first Vanagon - A Turbo Diesel for a USA roadtrip Reply with quote

chrissev2 wrote:
Just reading "bought with a broken timing belt" and kind of trying not to wince. Whenever I hear about a VW diesel with a broken timing belt, I start thinking of bent valves and cracked pistons with little pieces of valve wedged in places you'd never imagine.


I have purchased plenty of "broken timing belt" cars with no issues to the bottom end. However this is my first diesel that I have done. fingers crossed. I up buying a new cylinder head. brand new. Was able to mount the head, get the manifolds on. injection pump on. New alternator comes in on tuesday. drained the fuel tank. Then do all the timing stuff wednesday when I get the injection pump pulley.

I sound deadened all of the side panels. Used some peel and seal and then did the corners and hard to reach places in sound deadening spray. Made a HUGE difference. reinstalled the foam insulation over that with adhesive then installed a foil temperature insulation over that. Should help with hot summers and cold winters. Some pictures below. Also took the originally grey headliner and dyed it black. Removed the lower blue velvet fabric and recovered with some funky print that the girlfriend was pretty excited about. Turned out well. Not 100% complete but will have the side panels and hardwood flooring in by the end of the week. with any luck the all white cabinets with mahogany butcher board countertop ($40 second hand) will be completed by the end of the week also.


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With the Insulation adhered back on:
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With the foil insulation adhered to the foam:
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Black headliner:
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What will be the countertop and table:
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BlueTucker
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright a small update. Was able to build the cabinets. Jut need to install the doors and drawers. Put first primer coat on. Also layed down a rough cut countertop. Installed new head, injection pump and timing belt. All went together well. Need to install alternator and turbo then it should turn on. Fingers crossed. Here are some pictures Smile

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BlueTucker
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to mention: sourced a Dometic Tundra 4.2qft AC/DC fridge for $250! That will be going in and can be seen above. Excited about that one. In thinking a 100watt solar panel and 180AH battery bank should be good for 5-6 days in the woods. Anyone have any idea what wattage solar panel I can source cheaply up supliment the batteries for days where the van won't be turned on for 3 days? Or plugged into shore power. The fridge says 3.72 amps. Would a 60watt panel be ok to get it through 3 days?
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Sir Sam
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BlueTucker wrote:
Forgot to mention: sourced a Dometic Tundra 4.2qft AC/DC fridge for $250! That will be going in and can be seen above. Excited about that one. In thinking a 100watt solar panel and 180AH battery bank should be good for 5-6 days in the woods. Anyone have any idea what wattage solar panel I can source cheaply up supliment the batteries for days where the van won't be turned on for 3 days? Or plugged into shore power. The fridge says 3.72 amps. Would a 60watt panel be ok to get it through 3 days?


60 watts at 12Volts is 5 amps. So your 60W panel under best case circumstances will put out 5 amps.

Your fridge is about 4.

So under ideal circumstances you will have an amp to spare to keep your fridge running constantly.

But you don't have 24 hours of daylight, and your panel wont get full sunlight, if the sun is at a 45 degree angle to the solar panel it will output about 3.53 amps, and the average angle over the day will be lower than that even.

So even if you got 12 hours at 3.53 amps(which you wont, thats a more than realistic figure) you will lose about 12 hours x 4 amps of draw......so 48 amp hours off your battery.

Yes the 180aH battery has a good capacity, but how far can you draw it down before its too low to run? I would guess 2 days would have it dead.

Not to mention all the other load you put on it. Of course if you start and drive the thing at all during this period your alternator can recharge it pretty quick.
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luVWagn
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 7:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Our first Vanagon - A Turbo Diesel for a USA roadtrip Reply with quote

BlueTucker wrote:
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Dumb Q - how do you get a/c air to all those vents?
You're making solid progress - nice!
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BlueTucker
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 8:53 am    Post subject: Re: Our first Vanagon - A Turbo Diesel for a USA roadtrip Reply with quote

luVWagn wrote:
BlueTucker wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dumb Q - how do you get a/c air to all those vents?
You're making solid progress - nice!


Well our van has no AC Sad

If it did, I would have no idea. There are some hoses on the left that drop down from the unit. I am guessing if it had AC then they would be routed up too? That unit has a heater box in it and a fan. No air is pushed into it. In guessing this rig has 3 fans, that one, one in the rear and one under the dash.
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That white plastic unit on the front ceiling is a standard VW dealer added A/C unit. It does not have heat capability.

A 60 watt solar panel puts out about 3.5 amps.
An 80 watt solar panel puts out about 4.5 amps.
A 100 watt solar panel puts out about 5.5 amps.


The above are just rough number for 12 volt panels. The 12 volt solar panels are usually rated at 17-19 volts at max output. Look at the sticker on the back to see. Divide that number into the watt rating of the panel to see the expected amps from the panel.

60/18 = 3.3 amps

Mark
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That overhead unit's sole function is A/C..

Last edited by ?Waldo? on Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:49 am; edited 1 time in total
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BlueTucker
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
That overhead unit's sole function is A/C.


Oh cool. Well, no AC in this rig. Maybe after the trip, that will be my next project.
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BlueTucker
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the motor put back together except for a few items. Looking pretty good so far.

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tclark
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://s28.photobucket.com/user/supraspyder420/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps8e4f79e7.jpg.html
In the image point to by the above url I hope that is *NOT*
open cell foam that you installed right against the interior metal panels ?
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your fuel filter is sopposed to be mounted to the 'firewall'.

You may already know this, but you need to either install the BOV on the intake manifold or plug the hole.
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BlueTucker
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tclark wrote:
http://s28.photobucket.com/user/supraspyder420/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps8e4f79e7.jpg.html
In the image point to by the above url I hope that is *NOT*
open cell foam that you installed right against the interior metal panels ?


That is foam against the "sheet metal". The sheet metal is fully coveted in sound deadening and spray sound deadening in all corners. So rust/moisture is sealed away from the metal. I even sprayed the seams where the sound deadening was butted up to one another.
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BlueTucker
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Your fuel filter is sopposed to be mounted to the 'firewall'.

You may already know this, but you need to either install the BOV on the intake manifold or plug the hole.


Yes, the fuel filter will be installed against the firewall using the factory gas fuel filter bracket. And the BOV will be installed once I find a new v-band clamp. I had the van running on starter fluid because the injection pump wasn't sending fuel to the injectors. Found leak on pump at air pressure fuel advance lever. Need to source seals. May just get a new pump. Not sure yet. This pump scares me. Both in reliability and rebuilding.
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because of the very high compression of these engines, starting them on starting fluid very often breaks the piston rings. It's a very bad idea.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Because of the very high compression of these engines, starting them on starting fluid very often breaks the piston rings. It's a very bad idea.


+1

:-/




Getting a diesel started that has a fuel system that is full of air can be difficult, if you have a "lift" pump (less than 10 PSI) you can install to push fuel into/through the injection pump it will make things way easier.

Also, loosening the 17mm nut on the fuel lines where they attach to the injectors will allow the air to get pushed out of the fuel line from the injection pump to the injector, crank till you you get fuel coming out of that fitting then tighten them.

Do you have a dial gauge to check/adjust the injection timing?
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jackbombay wrote:
Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Because of the very high compression of these engines, starting them on starting fluid very often breaks the piston rings. It's a very bad idea.


+1

:-/




Getting a diesel started that has a fuel system that is full of air can be difficult, if you have a "lift" pump (less than 10 PSI) you can install to push fuel into/through the injection pump it will make things way easier.

Also, loosening the 17mm nut on the fuel lines where they attach to the injectors will allow the air to get pushed out of the fuel line from the injection pump to the injector, crank till you you get fuel coming out of that fitting then tighten them.

Do you have a dial gauge to check/adjust the injection timing?


Good info. I will be sure to not use the starting fluid.

I have a dial gauge and the timing was set correctly. Was able to get me hands on a Bosch rebuild kit and the needed seal for the foreign market fuel enrichment (leaking) seal. Tore the pump apart and holy crap is it fouled up!! Sticky residue coating everything. Cleaned most parts by hand. The main body is at a rebuild center now being cleaned/bead blasted. I get the parts back tomorrow. Then I am off to installation. Fingers crossed I get the pump back together and functional in the next couple days. The guy at the service center said I need to have the pump being tested and adjusted? I forgot to mark the governor and "low throttle/stop" adjustments. Any idea if I'm screwed? Or can I work around that?
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Setting an injection pump up really well from scratch without a test bench can certainly be done (I've done so many times) but there is a steep learning curve and changing one setting often affects others.
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