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D-train
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 2:08 pm    Post subject: New engine Reply with quote

originally i was goin to build this for my 55 bus, but since finding such a good and complete engine for it i now will run a stock 36er in it.
but this will be a little side project for me to build up too..

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ww okrasa kit
ww stroker crank
aircooled research hi lift cam
straight cut cam gears
high flow oil pump

this is just the start of the bits.

thinking of the speedwell ratio rockers, 80mm p&cs if they have good reviews but then there is the 83mm too. theres a few combos to think of at the moment.. any thoughts or info is welcome
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gimmesomeshelter
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may want to take a ride in a car with straight cut gears before you install them in your own engine. Wink

Cheers,

Paul
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D-train
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul, if u hear my gearbox an how worn it is, straight cut gears won't be a problem.
Funny how much noise a gearbox makes after u drain water out of it and actually add oil..
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Mr. Motorhead
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gimmesomeshelter wrote:
You may want to take a ride in a car with straight cut gears before you install them in your own engine. Wink

Cheers,

Paul


I can barely hear the straight cut gears in mine, when I put on the supercharger it was way louder than the cam gears were (the supercharger has straight cut drive gears). Every engine is different and a lot depends on the vehicle it goes in (padding, insulation ,bus, beetle or KG).
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36 horsepower parts for sale at http://www.aircooledresearch.com/
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Loren
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might want to have a 3 way angle valve job done. My new WW heads needed it. I have heard the new WW carbs work good but start to leak at the throttle shaft after a little use. I don't know if it is worth re bushing the shafts now or after they start leaking. Other that, looking good.
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henry roberts
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i don't know what the cam's powerband is but if it runs high enough maybe add some blackline lifters (if they still make them).

or just send the crank and heads to JPM with a blank check and say "go nuts". Very Happy
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blacklineracing
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We still are making the inserts!
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D-train
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whats the benefits of the inserts?
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bdub475
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought that the benefit was so that you can run 1600 style pushrods.
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D-train
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

apart from that whats the other benefit? im sure u can fit the 1600s with some work anyway.
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scottalford
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will be watching this one Dion. Am thinking along these lines for the vert.

It will be interesting to see what $$ go into building it. I can then start to save my penny's.

Scott
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D-train
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

been brainstorming with a little wizard found these for a better combo with the stroker. saves using barrel shims which i wasnt a big fan of, also will cut down on using pushrod extenders too...
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6mm difference between crown heights and shorter too, so shouldnt have a problem with hitting anything or having to shave metal from pistons.

also, my -20- case seems to be 60mm, uncut! but should i use it for a hot engine or not?
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still nutting out combos to do with it, but a 77mm p&c combo is more appealing to me than cutting a bigger hole
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bdub475
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are the shorter pistons out of and are they 77mm?
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D-train
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

shhhhh, secret..





yes they are 77mm,
pin fits too.

from an mx5
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morymob
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 4:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awhileback on this discussion(4 my 36) checking with mazda parts piston was over $80 ea+tx, not including ring set about $70, some air escaped from that idea 4 now.
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GTV
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

6mm seems a bit too much for me, unless you are also going for a longer rod?
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oldturtle22
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks interesting Dion. Keep posting.

Have you used the WW dual port kit before?

Id be interested to see HP figures afterwards for my build.

I own a dyno shop if you're ever back in Brissy??

Chris
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

D-train wrote:
whats the benefits of the inserts?
Porsche developed the inserts to allow free floating pushrods with hardened tips on both ends for the VW based preA 2 piece engines. Since the rocker arms travel in an arc, and the lifter travels in a straight line, stress is transferred by bending the pushrod that is pressed in to the lifter on stock VW engines of the era. Not good. When using more aggressive cams/high ratio rockers and stiffer valve springs, there is even more stress, resulting in work hardening and breakage. This problem is not uncommon even on stock 36ers. When breakage occurs, the solution is often to fit a different lifter/pushrod that has not been mated to the cam during the short break in period of these parts. Cams can go flat quickly under these circumstances. Some folks are machining the heads and cases to use the larger diameter pushrod tubes from the VW 40 hp engines to allow additional clearance for the "swing" on highly modified cam trains. An added benefit is that custom length pushrods can be used on modified (wider or narrower) engines. A worthwhile improvement, IMHO.
I hope this helps.
Jack
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GTV wrote:
6mm seems a bit too much for me, unless you are also going for a longer rod?
I like this idea. If a Okrasa/WW stroker crank of 69.5 is used in place of the stock crank, the throw will be in increased by 5.5mm, (I dont have my #s at hand) a close match for compression ratio. A little trimming of the barrels maybe... Good for 356 crank ( 74mm) too.
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GTV
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jacks wrote:
GTV wrote:
6mm seems a bit too much for me, unless you are also going for a longer rod?
I like this idea. If a Okrasa/WW stroker crank of 69.5 is used in place of the stock crank, the throw will be in increased by 5.5mm, (I dont have my #s at hand) a close match for compression ratio. A little trimming of the barrels maybe... Good for 356 crank ( 74mm) too.


Not exactly. Think about how the crankshaft is designed. When the stroke is increased by 5.5mm, it pushes the piston up an additional 2.75mm and pulls it down an additional 2.75mm. A 6mm shorter crown will need a 12mm longer crank. Or a longer rod.
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