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johnnypan
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 7431
Location: sackamenna
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 Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:26 am Post subject: |
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| Weezle wrote: |
| johnnypan wrote: |
Learning to weld on finish work isn't good...get some junk metal and practice.. its often best not to do a continuous weld on a repair, its often leads to heat distortion and burn through, practice 'stitch' welding..
where you deposit weld then move..it takes practice and patience but its the way to get the best results.. |
Practice and patience are hard for me.  |
I agree, 'painstaking' doesnt suit me either..try a map gas torch on your drill outs...it saves some time. |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 1:21 pm Post subject: day 60 |
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Second coat of herculiner on the pan. Master Series black satin finish on the frame horns and torsion bar/spring plate stuff.
tranny is supposed to arrive today. So I plan to flip it over, paint the top with master series, and get the tranny and shifter all back together.
Trailing and track arms are at a machine shop getting re-bushed. Only the ninth place I went to was willing/able to do it, and they can't rebush the swaybar bushings with the factory rubber for some reason. Everything else will be rubber. The swaybar bushings will be urethane. I don't like that because on my daily driver they squeek like mad, but the front swaybar bushing only come in urethane anyway on this 7/8" bar so some urethane is unavoidable.
Once those items are picked up and painted with master series, they go back in then the rear bearings and rebuilt CV/axles go in.
Body is still at the blasters. Maybe there was nothing left after all the rust was blasted off
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:37 pm Post subject: Wow, really? |
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So got my tranny back from Benco. No problem with how long it took, and sure I'm happy with free shipping, but jeez I would have chipped in for some bubble wrap if I new it was gonna arrive like this:
I mean a single walled box for a 75lb transmission? Truly stupid.
I guess I can grind this down and paint it but it looks like ass.
Anyone else using Benco, tell them you don't want free shipping, you want good packing instead. I had it packed by ups to ship to Cali it and yeh it cost a few bucks.
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:06 am Post subject: Spring plate fun |
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After getting my kid and his friend to flip the pan over went to put a coat of master series on the top. But it had turned to rubber in the can. Thought if it was airtight it would be ok but nope.
So I'm thinking what else can I do that's fun and spring plate bushings popped into my mind. On a level of 0-10 with 10 being removing the huge 17mm hex head trailing arm bolts the spring plates were a 9.5.
This again:
I never got these to work before:
But got a pleasant surprise Worked as intended
If I EVER have to use this again please kill me:
Anyway all done and retorqued to spec. Wife still wondering what the hell I needed the baby powder for.
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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Dwayne1m
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011
Posts: 3538
Location: Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Is that a steel/plastic tube you are using for the front cables? |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:18 am Post subject: day 64 |
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Yesterday new e-brake cables. The handle mechanism is all hooked up. R and R the clutch and accel cables today. Going with the clutch cable with the heim joint and the fancy upgraded accel pedal which actually come from different vendors. also the "bulletproof" accel cable made by scat.
Still eyeballing those fuel lines.....Really want to swap them out. The thought of that 3" spice of rubber hose in there is annoying. The cables seem to move about freely....of the three areas where gas lines mount to the tunnel I can say for sure the one near the pedal cluster and the one near the rear access panel are not being used at all. Can't say about the center one near the brake handle, and not keen to cut a hole in the tunnel to investigate. I have a steel cable in each fuel line thinking I can run the new fuel lines over those. But the sharp 90 degree angle at the frame head looks really difficult.
Forrest returns from the spa today fully exfoliated (media blasted) and covered with epoxy primer. then I'll see just how horrible the rust really is.
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Chochobeef
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2013
Posts: 811
Location: Ft. Worth, Texas
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| Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:19 am Post subject: Re: shifter swap |
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| Weezle wrote: |
How hard is it to put the earlier shifter with the angled shift rod into a newer bug with the straight shift rod? I like that look better. The older shift rod has a pin sticking out the front of the ball that sits in the head of the long shifter rod that goes to the tranny nose cone. Could I just dremel a slot into that so the old style shift rod will fit, or is it more complicated than that?
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I do not have an answer for you on this, but I to want to do this. I'm pretty sure the slot is there to keep it from spinning (like the later one do), so that the angle stays going back. I hope someone who has done this can chime in.
Also, nice work. Its good to see a screw extractor actually worked. Mine haven't so far. |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 1:13 pm Post subject: back from the blasters |
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car is back from being blasted and has a coat of epoxy primer on it.
couple things....
lots of rust, I was aware of most of it, but I think the left side convertible reinforcement piece and alot of the heater channel is rustier than hoped for. There is some cobbled repairs of the support rail. dunno but thats a big job if itneeds to be replaced. on the other hand the right hand side is almost perfect except for the very back. On a better note, the rust around the windshield was surface only. no holes there.
Doors got wrecked. Apparently someone tried to "learn" on my doors. they got warped. shop has to reskin the doors and take off part of the bill for blasting them. really a shame as they were rust free doors. shit happens. compared to the other holes in the car its not so bad.
Is it possible to do the convertible support with the car off the pan? I need to investigate this more. Its not like its all gone, but its probably got about 2-4% of it rusted through. I'll try to post some pics later. I've got the pan to paint still.
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 1:21 pm Post subject: Re: shifter swap |
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| Chochobeef wrote: |
| Weezle wrote: |
How hard is it to put the earlier shifter with the angled shift rod into a newer bug with the straight shift rod? I like that look better. The older shift rod has a pin sticking out the front of the ball that sits in the head of the long shifter rod that goes to the tranny nose cone. Could I just dremel a slot into that so the old style shift rod will fit, or is it more complicated than that?
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I do not have an answer for you on this, but I to want to do this. I'm pretty sure the slot is there to keep it from spinning (like the later one do), so that the angle stays going back. I hope someone who has done this can chime in.
Also, nice work. Its good to see a screw extractor actually worked. Mine haven't so far. |
yeh, I'm afraid of destroying that shift rod
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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baxsie
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2005
Posts: 606
Location: Eastern Washington State
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 3:12 pm Post subject: firewall body mount |
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each side of the "napoleon's hat" has two bolt holes that body mounting bolts pass through before reaching the captured bolts or threaded plate that is inside the firewall on the body. The nuts or whatever the bolts are supposed to screw into are completely gone. Can anyone advise the best way to repair that? Thread a steel plate and weld it in there? weld the correct size bolts to a repair plate and weld that in there? is it a part that is available? thanks.
searching I found this photo
I need to get something like this, but really just the nut plate. The bolts are 10mm. anyone know the thread pitch?
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Dodgy
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 517
Location: Leicester, UK
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| Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 1:18 am Post subject: |
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Well, that's my photo... 
I custom made these brackets while rebuilding the front bulkhead of my super. They are as close a copy as I could make of the original parts.
Using this design means these brackets can be tied to the bulkhead and body sides as intended by VW. Without removing (at least a substantial part of) the bulkhead you won't be able to replace these brackets wholesale. I guess you can patch, but it will be difficult to get the correct structural strength.
The captive plates are 6mm thick, and need to move to align with the holes on the floorpan etc. The strap on top just loosely retains it in rough position. The threads are standard M10x1.5mm.
The replacement bulkhead panels available are totally cr  p for supers. Take a look at my build thread (link in signature) to see what's wrong with them, and the process of removing & reinstalling the bulkhead. If I don't do that job again for a LONG time, it will still be too soon! 
_________________
'75 1303 (current project) owned since 1989!
'72 Squareback - full resto completed 2008 - now sold
356 Speedster kit, completed 2005 - now sold |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 5:28 am Post subject: Hey Dodgy |
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Hey there, not meaning to steal your pics without credit but now that I've got you here...........
Looking at the pics below, I'm thinking I need to make a nutplate reinforcement box similar to yours and I'm thinking I can slide it in from the side. then maybe plug weld it to the rear panel of the firewall and the repaired front panel of the firewall and the repaired inner fenderwell/wheelhouse. I don't think I need to pull out that whole firewall for this, the inside is totally intact.
The front most part of the heater channel on the outside is gone, but the inside looks good. I don't know if I can cut a front heater channel patch piece in half vertically to repair the front of that heater channel or if the entire front needs to be replaced. Media blasting off all the undercoat sure opened up a can of welding headache on this body.
the support rail has been "patched" but there are some "moth-eaten" areas along the bottom of the support rail that were not addressed. The idea of replacing the whole thing is pretty intimidating. I don't know. I feel like I can amateur weld everything but this support rail, its pretty important structurally. But I will value any input from Samba members especially Dodgy and others like bugs n pugs who have had to do major surgery here. thanks.
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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Dodgy
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 517
Location: Leicester, UK
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| Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 6:30 am Post subject: |
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| Weezle wrote: |
| Hey there, not meaning to steal your pics without credit but now that I've got you here........... |
No problem, happy for picture to be used (that's what it's for!) 
This photo below shows the problem: the five MIG weld beads you can see tie the nut plate boxes (that you saw in my photo) through the bulkhead front panel to the big corner reinforcement brackets that tie the bulkhead to the body side channels that the steering gear is attached to. The nut plate boxes are also tied to the front quarter panel on the sides of the bulkhead too, creating probably the strongest point in the whole body.
I guess you could slide a new nut plate in there, but all it will do is hold the flimsy base of the bulkhead down onto the floorpan, and won't hold the front of the body together as it's intended to. There will be high local forces here from the steering system - the complex structure and big corner brackets are there for a reason!
A slightly easier option to removing the whole bulkhead might be to remove the front plate only (either entire or just the lower part. You will need to remove or cut the corner brackets to do this (which is a bas**rd of a job). The front plates on the pattern bulkhead panels are OK, you can also split the front panel to refit which will make the job easier.
Otherwise I suppose, the bodge-it option would be to just blob as much weld between the new nut plate and corner bracket as you can and close up as well as you can, it might give some strength but won't look pretty!
_________________
'75 1303 (current project) owned since 1989!
'72 Squareback - full resto completed 2008 - now sold
356 Speedster kit, completed 2005 - now sold |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 7:08 am Post subject: |
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What about my idea of making another nut plate reinforced "box" and sliding it in from the side. the wheelhouse is bogged up from the PO already and I have a patch panel for that. I could drill through the firewall front and rear ahead of time and plug weld it. I'm not sure. I think the front of the firewall can be patched with an upside down T shaped piece of steel stitch welded in place. I can lap the joints of the patch under the remaining rust free part of the front firewall panel. I have a rack and pinion so maybe less steering forces there, I dunno. But I think I just need to get that box in there and welded from at least three sides and patch over it nicely and it should work.
on further thought, the back of the firewall cannot be reach to plug weld that thing, at least not without cutting what appears to be a perfect and rust free rear firewall area. I can redo the 5 welds on the front, assuming the bracket its welded onto is in good shape. It looks ok. I believe thats the main part of that box that needs to be welded. there is nothing on the right of it, just hollow space inside the firewall. to the left is the inner wheelhouse where you have drilled out a bunch of spot welds. that area I will probably cut out of my wheel well and patch so I can again plug weld that. I don't think the bottom needs welding. Its just the flimsy front flat part of the heater channel and the sheet steel of the firewall
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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