Need help/advice on my body-off bug

[67 Sunroof]

Okay I kinda need help on the sequence of events that will take place on my bug body. It is currently off the chassis and stripped of everything.
I had a quote of $1200 to head blast everything but the guy said it will only be "protected" for like 3-4 days before surface rust starts.....
Soooooo,
Would I have it all bead blasted, take it to another guy and have it all epoxy primed right away, THEN start working on the bodywork?
Once we do the bondo, then we will be somewhat sanding the epoxy primer back off though and it will start rusting again, right!?
I am confused here....

So,
Bead blast
Epoxy prime
Bondo/bodywork
Sand
Spray base
Spray clear

?? Is this correct?
I just want the surface to be protected while I work on the rest if the body.
A few people said to spray etching primer on each body panel as I finish it and work my way around the car. Then, when I am all done, spray it!
I have read here that etching primer is NOT a good idea because it is acidic and shouldn't be put on bare metal. Uhhhhhhhhh......I'm confused.

[OLDveedubs]

Bead blast
Epoxy prime
Bondo/bodywork
Primer filler (some epoxy primers can also be used for this, save $$)
(Block) sand
Repeat previous two steps until undercoats are leveled
Spray base
Spray clear

You should be ok with etch primer after you finish each piece. The epoxy will protect the entire car and the etch primer the repairs you do. Better than nothing, although it is porous and not like epoxy.

You won't find a 1 part epoxy though, so you'd have to either mix some and spray each panel or use a rattle can (Eastwood carries a 2k epoxy in a can). Moral of the story: etch primer is fine.

The acid in the etch primer is what gets it to "stick" to the metal. It's a good thing!
_________________
-Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection."

[67 Sunroof]

Thanks! Would it not be a good idea to keep the doors on? The guy that's bead blasting it suggested taking the doors off for a better job. So, once the doors are off, I just epoxy prime all of the parts (fenders, doors, trunk, deck lid, inside and outside of the body) separate?
For someone who doesn't have a compressor on hand HERE, have you had experience with the ep in the rattle can from Eastwood? That would be excellent if I could get it back completely stripped from the guy and ep it in my garage. Then I could take it over to the paint guy and do the bodywork/paint at his shop. He is tied up in two projects now so it might be a month or two before I take it to him. I found the eastwood 2k ep in a can for $20 each.
If I have it all bead blasted and then use the 2k ep to preserve it until I get it to the bodywork/spray man. Once I get it there, then use high build primer and bondo to get things smooth......then block until it's prepped and spray? Does this make sense?

AND

How do you guys make sure all of the rubber will fit under the deck lid, and trunk? Do you test fit all rubber BEFORE the paint is applied? I don't want the car painted and THEN have to bend up/down where the rubber slides into the channels so it will fit?! It will scratch/chip the paint!?

[OLDveedubs]

It depends on the quality of the restoration you are looking to do.

Most here will tell you to remove the doors, etcand spray epoxy primer in either a booth or a garage, the right way. Not rattle can. The rattle can EP is meant for patch work painting.

Spraying all the pieces separate is fine, but once you get to your top coat make sure they are mocked up in the position they will be hanging and paint them all at the same time to avoid differences in application, flow patterns, etc.

Buy quality rubber from Wolfsburg West or West Coast Metric and you shouldn't have a problem. If you're replacing rubber that was already there, it should fit. You will have some wiggle room with metal pieces and can expand gaps with a plastic putty knife if the spaces are too tight, after it has been painted.

I suggest you look at some auto body books on Amazon, the Paintucation series, and do some research before you tackle the project.

Most all of your questions have been answered on the forum at one point or another. Good luck!
_________________
-Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection."

[mkriglet]

The more things you mock up before painting the happier you will be later.

[eyetzr]

Rip it apart, media blast the crap out of , metal etch prime, epoxy, filler prime ( if you do not need to do any work on it) . The thing to remember is that primers are not weather proof, paint is the protector of the primers, primers protect the bare substrate. If this is a long term project, spray a coat of paint over everything & use that to fill & block out. As far as fitting rubbers and seals, the car should be assembled, to finish painting, having said that fit your seals & door gaps, remove seals before painting. I have in the past assembled cars completely, then disassembled for paint. as previous stated read some of the posts that members have started & read, read, read. Best of luck