CV Joint "Blues"

[Syncro Jael]

[smurfpike]

[crazyvwvanman]

To be more specific, I have used a lot of the Empi 90-6805 complete axle assemblies with good results on 2wd vans with stockish levels of engine power output. But I know of several Syncro guys who have broken them under duress while the rear diff was locked. The axle shaft is what failed them.

Mark

[Jon_slider]

[Mountain1.8t]

Just installed a new driver's side rear axle (2wd Vanagon, lifted 1.5") from Advanced Auto after my Lobro started clicking...and clacking. The new axle has a similar, although not as loud clicking. Especially when taking a right hand turn, it gets a little louder. Are the CV joints on my new axle bad? Anything else to check?

[Syncro Jael]

[Mountain1.8t]

[Syncro Jael]

Yes bearings are in there. No not easily replaced by us DIY people. Just how much play do you have?
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat)

[Wildthings]

[Syncro Jael]

Another Update

I am starting to feel a vibration while accelerating again. This usually means that one of my CV joints is beginning to pit. I checked the marks to see if the (left) drivers side half shaft has moved. It hasn't. Still centered. So I will be taking the passenger side off and doing an inspection.

I recently purchased another full set of Lobro GNK joints for the rear. I specifically asked VanCafe for the joints that have the (3)three and single rings grooved in the outer joints.

Here is how they came:

The joint on the Left is how they all came out of the boxes. As you can see the STAR has been installed wrong. I took one joint apart and it was very difficult to tear down. All the ball races were very rough. I touched them up lightly with some emery cloth. It improved the movement, but they are still very, very tight. You can see in the joint on the right where I smoothed them up but there are still pretty deep machining grooves.

I have been talking to my friend that has high end sand rails about his joints. His come "race prepped" polished. I did some reading about polishing and clocking CV joints.

CLOCKING:
http://www.californiaperformance.com/cv_clocking.htm

RACE PREPPING:
http://www.dune-buggy.com/techtips/cv_joint_polishing.htm

I will be prepping these new joints and have them clocked on the half shaft when installed.

Here are the polishing bits that I ordered:
http://www.racereadyproducts.com/race-preptools/cv-polishing-bits/
.

Once I get them prepped I will update with some photos and procedures
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat)

[Mountain1.8t]

[Syncro Jael]

Another update.

I received the prepping bits today and completed one to get some photos.

I first used 320 grit emery cloth to knock off the high spots from machining.

As you can see in this pic it is still very rough after hitting it with the 320 grit. This is about a half hours worth of rubbing by hand. It feels smooth but you can still catch grooves with a fingernail. Much better than out of the box.

Then I used the polishing bit to finish smoothing them out. I read in a post not to take too much off, but get the machine grooves smoothed out. I took them down to where your fingernail would not catch any grooves, but it is still not polished smooth. Much better than from the factory. This is about another hour of polishing the star, cage, and outer race of the joint. Stock out of the box is on the left.

I read to take some additional time on the star because that is what pits and fails most of the time. Polished one on the left.

It should take about 1 1/2 - 2 hours per joint to get them polished. I am being careful not to take too much off. I also read that if they are too smooth the grease will not adhere to the metal and keep a layer of grease between the surfaces. I am not sure about that, but I did read it.

The difference is amazing on how smooth the joint moves after polishing. Even without grease it easily plunges by it's own weight. The stock out of the box has to be pushed pretty hard to get it to plunge.

I am also going to give some high end CV grease a try. I have a friend who swears by this in his sand rail and a supplier is using this also. He has used both Swepco and Redline before and He wanted to have someone else run some and see if it makes a difference. So I am going to be "guinea" for this test.

All this might be overkill, but I am willing to take the time to see if it makes a difference. All the offroad - buggy people on Samba do this to their joints to make them last longer and I know a few of you have commented that you prep your joints. I am just a little slow to learn all these tricks but that is why I wanted to share this with the group.

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/cv-500-joint-grease/

http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/hpcc1-grease/

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1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat)

[gears]

You're doing a top-notch job. I wouldn't worry about the grease adhering .. If there's a sufficient amount of grease, the balls should remain lubed (and you've reduced heat-producing high spots). I think it would be hard to beat the Swepco grease, though ..
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aka Pablo, Geary
9.36 @ 146 in '86 Hot & Sticky
'90 Syncro Westy SVX
'87 Syncro GL 2.5
https://guardtransaxle.com

[Christopher Schimke]

[zeohsix]

My buddy who builds desert trucks swears by the Bel Ray 67700 grease for CVs, it's not cheap but, if someone wants to split a case of 12 cartridges with me, it's under $20 per cartridge which is a screening deal......anyone interested in the best there is? This stuff is usually over $30 a cartridge at retail outlets.
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I'm Cheap! I'll build that Syncro Westy myself and save money but, my labor is "FREE" especially if I ever go to sell it! One thing is I will know the quality of the parts and labor that went into the build and rest better when I'm actually driving said Westy down the road!

[DAV!D]

Just a thought here.. I notice you have lots of things bolted onto your syncro if it's the one in your avatar. Could you be over loading the van?

I too have suffered from a few premature CV joint failures on my 2wd auto as I've traveled around the country. Due to living in the van while I'm traveling I carry a lot of stuff like spare parts, clothes, had a folding kayak.. Ect..ect..

Since I'm stopped off in Denver I rented a small storage unit and put most of my stuff there and greatly reduced the load on the van. Previous to doing this I was starting to hear a CV joint making noise.

After removing all the extra weight the CV joint stopped making noise. This leads me to think that maybe my van was over loaded which caused the premature cv failures.

Considering the van in your picture is a Syncro/Westy is already at the edge of the weight rating for these vans capabilities. Add in the tire carrier, big bumpers, fuel cans, box on the roof and what ever you might have inside, could your van just be overloaded?
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86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion

[Syncro Jael]

That is why we call it "Over 3 tons of Fun"

_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat)

[DAV!D]

[Jon_slider]

[DAV!D]