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quick fuel pump question
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brendo907
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 3:54 am    Post subject: quick fuel pump question Reply with quote

Lately i noticed that on my 74 supers fuel pump down towards the base theres what i think is the check valve? i noticed slight seepage from it, i can see it moving while its running. Im not saying its pouring gas or dripping in the slightest. Is this normal or am i in the market to rebuild or replace my fuel pump? would this have anything to do with my bug acting up sometimes and dying at stop lights and having a co worker drive by laughing while i am pushing my bug to the curb?

Thanks everyone
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DeathTrap
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 4:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's not a check valve.

have you replaced the fuel filter yet?

Or again?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pic of the pump would be helpful or at least a brand. If its an aftermarket Brosol - you talking about the 1/4" diameter rod that runs through it?
_________________
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Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
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brendo907
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a Vw one, and I haven't checked the fuel filter, I changed my under tank one 200 miles ago, I'll snap a pic tommorow
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brendo907
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stole this from my gallery pics it's. A little blurt but that round thing right above the mounting nut
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ROCKOROD71
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is the pivot pin that holds the pump lever in. Does it have c-clips on either side to hold it in place? Some are just peened in place at the factory. If it has c-clips then seeing it move is probably ok (I'd still be suspicious), but if there are no clips to hold it in place then movement is bad, and the pin could work its way out, causing imminent failure. The only thing that should be seeping from there is oil or grease. If it is indeed gas then the diaphragm is bad and you need to replace the pump. Does your oil smell like gas? Is the level rising? A torn fuel pump diaphragm will cause this, and it's thinning out the oil and negating the lubricating qualities.

With the price of aftermarket fuel pumps being so low, I'd just replace it, 10 minute job.
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1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI
79SuperVert wrote:

30 years from now, the next guy may not want your girlfriend, but he may want your classic car, depending on how nice you were to it.


asiab3 wrote:

Careful guys, a petulant child can grow up to be president these days.


**winter drivers: no survivors!**rust warrior**#keepbodyshopsbusy**
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DeathTrap
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ROCKOROD71 wrote:
that is the pivot pin that holds the pump lever in. Does it have c-clips on either side to hold it in place? Some are just peened in place at the factory. If it has c-clips then seeing it move is probably ok (I'd still be suspicious), but if there are no clips to hold it in place then movement is bad, and the pin could work its way out, causing imminent failure. The only thing that should be seeping from there is oil or grease. If it is indeed gas then the diaphragm is bad and you need to replace the pump. Does your oil smell like gas? Is the level rising? A torn fuel pump diaphragm will cause this, and it's thinning out the oil and negating the lubricating qualities.

With the price of aftermarket fuel pumps being so low, I'd just replace it, 10 minute job.


these cars run so dirty all oil smells like gas to most
especially those not run hard

new cars the exhaust pipe won't even soot
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brendo907
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It isn't gas, my oil level stays the same between oil changes and doesn't smell like gas. It must just be a drop of oil that worked by that pin?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you install those pumps, you are supposed to pack some grease up in that cavity. Its probably grease leaking out.

The comment about the pin earlier is REAL important. I have seen many of these where the pin was almost out. Had a pump failure on my 65 on the worst stretch of road at the worst time of day when the pin worked its way out causing my wife to run out of gas. Pull the pump and fix it if needed.

If it has C clips on the end, dont worry about it. If not then here's a couple options that I have used.

#1 peen the ends well - I usually just lay it sideways on a vice and fold over some metal from the pump body with a chisel.

#2 Clean the ends really well and apply a glob os J-B weld on each end.

#3 you can make a clip that slips around the pump to act as a retainer, but its more trouble than its worth

#4 Someone sells a longer pin with C clips in the classifieds - havent bought one myself.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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brendo907
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the delay, been setting up the new house. I took a look and have no retainers what so ever and I pushed it in a little bit with a screwdriver. I'll have to pull it and peen it or jb weld.
Just to be certain this is a pivot point and should not move at all?

Thanks everyone
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Samer1275
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not when operating but it needs to come out for a rebuild. Not an issue for you since the aftermarket pump in the photo is not rebuildable.

By the way, rebuild kits come with a pin and circlips. I have an extra one from that source. PM me your address and I'll send it to you.
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brendo907
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samer1275 wrote:
Not when operating but it needs to come out for a rebuild. Not an issue for you since the aftermarket pump in the photo is not rebuildable.

By the way, rebuild kits come with a pin and circlips. I have an extra one from that source. PM me your address and I'll send it to you.


That sounds great, I appreciate that offer, I'll on you right now.

But would this cause my random dying problem? Always restarts after a few mins but now that I said that I see a walk home in my future.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No - when the pin comes out - you are walking unless you can put it back in. Random dying can be various things - you need to be a little more specific on what exactly happens and when. for example - high speed cruise and craps out, stalls out when coming to a stop, etc.....
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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brendo907
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
No - when the pin comes out - you are walking unless you can put it back in. Random dying can be various things - you need to be a little more specific on what exactly happens and when. for example - high speed cruise and craps out, stalls out when coming to a stop, etc.....


I can drive the car, has good power and I take it all over town, to work various speeds. I was just getting trusting in the car (200 miles since I had changed anything) and about 25mph it cuts out, bogs and if I pump the pedal it kinda helped, ended up getting into a turn lane and pushing it through the green light.

I thought the float had stuck because it has done that before so I tapped the carb and either time or that helped it start and drive home. I got home and switched the float to an old German one because I had put the crappy rebuild kit one in for some reason. I'm not 100% that was my problem tho. I do see a carb tuning in the near future especially with the colder weather.

But to say the least, I will be towing it out to the new house instead of driving due to trust issues
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ROCKOROD71
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, lets say you replaced all your fuel line and a small piece of rubber from the area you cut the line worked its way to the float needle valve, you would get intermittent clogging issues and bad fuel supply to the carb. If changing out the valve helped and the issue went away, I'd say either something got clogged in there or the rebuild valve was junk. I have used the euromax needle valves on rebuilds with no problems in the past, just make sure you clean out/blow out any valve you insert, and use the appropriate washer under it for your model carb. using the wrong washer (theres a fat one and a skinny one) can cause problems too. the vague instruction sheet that comes with the rebuild kit will tell you which one to use (can't remember off the top of my head).
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI
79SuperVert wrote:

30 years from now, the next guy may not want your girlfriend, but he may want your classic car, depending on how nice you were to it.


asiab3 wrote:

Careful guys, a petulant child can grow up to be president these days.


**winter drivers: no survivors!**rust warrior**#keepbodyshopsbusy**
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