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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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 Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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Took the seats out yesterday.
Started with the body removal today. Had a bunch of panhead bolts that wouldn't come out. Used ZEP 45 penetrant to try and loosen them, but it only worked on one of the 12 I removed. The rest got drilled, and then removed them with a set of Craftsman Drill Extractors.
I still have 4 more to remove, but I have to remove the hood first.
The builder used a ton of screws and bolts to put the hood on, and I couldn't reach the final one on each side to remove the nuts from the bolts. Have to get some help tomorrow. Goal is to have the body off tomorrow, and start prepping the other pan.
Gonna also have to start working on plans to fill the small screw holes in the body. Fortunately, those are the only holes in the body. No damage or big holes anywhere that I've found so far.
I did try to unscrew the gas gap from the threaded pipe, and this is what happened:
Didn't spend any time really looking at it, so I don't know if it was ever welded in, or just sealed in some manner, but it wasn't too hard to remove.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Bluemanx
Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2013
Posts: 66
Location: California
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| Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 9:27 pm Post subject: |
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| jaxjeeper wrote: |
I did try to unscrew the gas gap from the threaded pipe, and this is what happened:
Didn't spend any time really looking at it, so I don't know if it was ever welded in, or just sealed in some manner, but it wasn't too hard to remove. |
Ha! I had a tough time with mine, trying to unscrew, but got some help here on the Samba. There usually is a hose with clamps under the hood to the tank. Terrible to get to. I'll be replacing the seal on mine. Save that piece of history if you can.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=548620&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I think the cap and "pipe" are to remain together.
_________________
If you don't have time to do it right the first time, ...when will you have the time to do it over ? |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 5:32 am Post subject: |
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This one didn't have any hose on it. This piece was pushed into the fuel tank. I haven't got the hood off yet, so I don't know if it was tached on, or just used some sort of sealer, but it doesn't matter. I'll be using a new quality tank, and re-use the pipe and have it welded the correct way. I'll clean up this pipe of course, and also have the rubber grommet around it.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Wetstuff
Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2010
Posts: 700
Location: Maryland
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:44 am Post subject: |
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Jeeper, Nice find. Mine came from OH also. If you get a chance, photograph this: " It had the 1" pipes under the pan with the pan hammered around them.."
And were "the original mounting screws,.." for used for the body or hood? Thanks.
Jim
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Manx #2614 |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:16 am Post subject: |
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| Wetstuff wrote: |
Jeeper, Nice find. Mine came from OH also. If you get a chance, photograph this: " It had the 1" pipes under the pan with the pan hammered around them.."
And were "the original mounting screws,.." for used for the body or hood? Thanks.
Jim |
Jim,
I'll take some pictures this afternoon. I'm hoping to get the body off the pan, and if I do, I'll set the pan on its side to get some better shots.
Brian
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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So... I'm looking for ideas and suggestions on suspension parts. I'm not looking to make a full long or even mid travel suspension for the Manx, but I'd like a little taller look. I'm posting a few pictures of what look I'd like to go for, for a little clarification.
I'm planning on using about a 2" body lift (whatever I need for the body to clear on the IRS pan), and don't want to make it too awkward looking.
Suggestions and tips?
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983
Last edited by Buggy Brian on Fri Sep 05, 2014 9:43 am; edited 1 time in total |
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joescoolcustoms
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2006
Posts: 9054
Location: West By God Virginia
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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Front:
Adjusters in the front beam set for stock and upward raise, with long slot ball joints. Oil shocks. 205 or 215 X 75 15 tire on 4, 5 or 6 inch rim
Rear:
Type II CV joints and conversion axles, notched adjustable spring plates and gas charged shocks. 235, 255 75 15 tire on 7, 8 inch rim.
The 2 inch body lift will give a raised look by itself.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race
Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.
Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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I'm already on my way! I bought these a few months back from a guy in SC that got them with a roller frame sandrail he bought, and didn't like them. Hell of a deal on them. Didn't actually have a purpose for them at the time, but I knew eventually I would. I guess the hoarder in me is paying off. Now if I already had an adjustable beam.....
Fronts are 215 60 15's on 5" wide
Rears are 235 75 15's on 8" wide
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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RedBaronofRedBud
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2013
Posts: 505
Location: Southeast Missouri
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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Looks great so far! Are you going to try and save the engine or do you have one ready to go?
Welcome to the madness...
_________________
Or you can call me………Tim
My two pennies…your mileage may vary
I’m not a complete idiot, there are parts missing |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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| RedBaronofRedBud wrote: |
| Looks great so far! Are you going to try and save the engine or do you have one ready to go? |
Believe it or not, I've actually got several ready to go. I've got a 2110 that I'm currently trying to sell to finance the rest of the build, and don't really need in the Manx. It's what I had planned to put in the Sandrail. I've also got a 1600 that is my "backup" motor. It was from a '77 Vert and has 58k miles on it.
But... the motor that is going in is my Scat 1776 that I've had for a couple of years. I've got to go through it, as it's sat for 4 years without running. I turn it every few weeks, but I have to put a carb and exhaust on it. I bought the exhaust from monomanx when I visited him on my trip down, and have a few carbs to play with. Like I said, I'm a hoarder. My wife is actually shocked I have my rail, clone, and motor up for sale. But since it means I can do what I want with the Manx, I'm all for it.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Wetstuff wrote: |
If you get a chance, photograph this: " It had the 1" pipes under the pan with the pan hammered around them.."
Jim |
Jim,
Thanks for the complement. Ohio seems to be the place to find them! The original mounting screws were the body to pan screws. Actually, they were panhead machine bolts that were fastened from the body, through the pans, and into the 1" piping.
Here are the pictures. The 1" pipes were placed underneath the pans, into the channels on the outside, tach welded into place to hold them. Then the instructions had you drill through the body and pan, into the pipes, and use the screws/bolts to hold it all together. After that was done, you were directed to use a hammer to "roll" the edges of the pan around the pipe for a cleaner look.
This one is from the outside of the pan. You can kind of see the rolled edge of the pan.
This one is from underneath, lengthwise along the bottom. You can kind of make out the pipe running underneath the channel, with the edge of the pan rolled under it.
Another shot from underneath, crossways. Should be a little easier to see the pipe with the pan rolled underneath it.
Chris monomanx pointed this out to me, and also showed me where to find a copy here of the original instructions.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Seems like I'm not progressing nearly as fast as I hoped. It's a little more difficult to do all of this without a helper. I want to kick the PO's (Previous owner) rear end for what he did to put the hood on, and how he sealed it. There were about a dozen long threaded bolts and nuts per side holding the hood on. I could hardly reach them. It was all I could do to get them all removed.
I finally got them all done, removed the windshield, and tried to get the hood off.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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After the windshield was off I realized the dash had been screwed to the hood, and not just screws were used, it was very small threaded bolts and nuts. Is this normal?
It is an original ABS dash, so I'm assuming that's how it was done back in the day. I'm just irritated at the slow progress I'm making. I had assumed by now that I'd have the body off the pan, and would be well on my way to sanding off the old paint.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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Now for the hood removal. The PO used some sort of silicon/silicone sealant between the hood and body, and then painted over it. While the paint wasn't perfect, it was definitely a good job. It hurt to have to cut through all the silicone to separate the hood from the body. It means I definitely have to strip it down and get to the gelcoat underneath to see what I'm dealing with.
Depending on the time, and if I sell my sandrail and Manx clone, I may have the body done for me. I've contacted Vince Simansky to see if I'll be able to have him do the body work for me.
I'm not sure if I'm going to keep the ABS dash, as it looks like swiss cheese.
If I don't keep the original dash, I'll be getting a new fiberglass one to graft in.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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Almost forgot to mention the pain of removing the steering column. Seems it had rusted to the coupling at the bottom. Chose not to remove the front wheel for access (won't make that mistake again) to save time, and regretted it later.
The clamp wasn't extremely difficult to get loose, but my lack of proper lighting (another choice I won't make again) made me overlook the lock tab on the nut, preventing me from getting a socket on the nut. After a few minutes of some choice swear words, and a beer break, I finally realized what was going on.
After releasing the clamp, the shaft still wouldn't release. I finally sprayed some ZEP 45 lubricant on it, and torqued the steering wheel to each side a couple of times. It finally broke free, and I was able to pull the steering column out.
Tomorrow the body comes off the pan!! (I hope!)
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Bluemanx
Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2013
Posts: 66
Location: California
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| Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 10:24 pm Post subject: |
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| jaxjeeper wrote: |
After the windshield was off I realized the dash had been screwed to the hood, and not just screws were used, it was very small threaded bolts and nuts. Is this normal?
It is an original ABS dash, so I'm assuming that's how it was done back in the day. I'm just irritated at the slow progress I'm making. I had assumed by now that I'd have the body off the pan, and would be well on my way to sanding off the old paint. |
Yep. That's how is was done. The old ABS dash fitted underneath the hood and was bolted on with those small bolts. I scraped mine as it was cracked and lots of holes as well. Contact Winnie at Meyers Manx for a new fiberglass one. It's an exact copy of the one you have. You'll just have to have the patience to glass it to the hood, since it will not fit under like the old ABS one. You'll most likely come across plenty of challenges like this that aren't known until you get there. So far, almost everything you've posted about, I've come across as well. Expect the worst, and then when it goes well, you'll be so happy  It's been over a year now and with things in life going on, I'm just now at the point of putting together instead of taking apart.
_________________
If you don't have time to do it right the first time, ...when will you have the time to do it over ? |
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Buggy Brian
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2006
Posts: 308
Location: Yulee, FL
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| Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 4:52 am Post subject: |
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| Bluemanx wrote: |
| Contact Winnie at Meyers Manx for a new fiberglass one. It's an exact copy of the one you have. You'll just have to have the patience to glass it to the hood, since it will not fit under like the old ABS one. You'll most likely come across plenty of challenges like this that aren't known until you get there. So far, almost everything you've posted about, I've come across as well. Expect the worst, and then when it goes well, you'll be so happy It's been over a year now and with things in life going on, I'm just now at the point of putting together instead of taking apart. |
Thanks for the info, and advice. I'm still toying around with the fiberglass new one versus cutting out all of the center and having a custom drop down plate made for it. I'd love to find stuff to fill out the holes already in it. I'm not sure if I'm going to do the body myself, or have it done. I've sent pictures out to get a quote on fixing a few minor holes and paint. I guess I need to see what it would add to have a new dash glassed in.
I understand about how long it could take. I'm working (slowly) to get mine apart. Luckily, I have a semi-finished pan to work with. It just needs some painting, and I'm going to change it over a little to get the stance I want, and then have some fabrication work done for a body lift and cage.
_________________
-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436
Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx
Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983 |
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Wetstuff
Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2010
Posts: 700
Location: Maryland
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| Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 5:01 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the pics Jeeper. The pipes under the pan rails may be old news for some, but new info to some of us. Cheers.
Jim
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Manx #2614 |
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