No headlights, no power to X circuit

[dansivilli]

Hi All,

I am getting an old car running and I am ready to try to get the engine started. I replaced the battery, tested what worked, what didn't. I get two red lights, emergency flashers work, rear turn signals, but not headlights or front turn signals.

No crank at all when turning key. I moved on to work replacing the fuel lines, gas tank, etc. Two days later I had no power at the ignition switch at all.

I checked power at the battery and it was good, disconnected battery, cleaned terminals and checked ground terminal against frame for a spark - nothing.

After reconnecting, I got power again, but everything "cut" when pulling the headlight switch.

I assume I have a short in the headlight circuit, but I'm looking for tips on how to do this methodically since testing the headlights seems to cut the power entirely - should I start at the headlight switch and use a test light on each connection? I have the wiring diagram and I am checking the integrity of the wires, but not sure how to track a short down other than obviously frayed wires.

THANKS!!

[57BLITZ]

What year is your Beetle?

A SHORT circuit = blown fuse; sparks; smoke; fire; or a combination of those.
An OPEN circuit = stuff will not work.
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Jesucristo es mi Señor y Salvador!

[dansivilli]

Hi, it's a 72 super.

No fuses blown, fires etc - my thought was it was a short because of the battery behavior but it may in fact be two non related issues.

[richardc]

Take battery out and bring to your local FLAP. Let them load test it, sounds like weak battery and when you put a load on it(headlights) its falling on its face.
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1970 Ghia vert
1970 Beetle sedan

[dansivilli]

Battery tested good, power going to solenoid/starter. I disconnected the #50 wire under the back seat and connected to positive terminal and the starter cranked. I traced the 50 wire back to the ignition switch, no power. So it looks like a bad ignition switch, which I'm planning on replacing Tuesday.

Thanks for the info and help so far.

[ashman40]

[[email protected]]

It is a good idea to put a 30 amp fuse between the battery and the wire going across under the back seat. That little fuse has saved me several times when I'm dinking around in the trunk. It's handy to take the fuse out if I am doing something electrical so it does spark and weld tools to electronics while I am working on it. Might ought to be high on the list before you short out something expensive.

[dansivilli]

Awesome tips - thanks guys. It turned out to be the switch. I haven't tried the headlights yet as I'm trying to get it running. Will test the headlights again tonight hopefully.

[dansivilli]

An update/follow on question..

Getting my high school 72 SB running after PO neglected it.

I'm now at the point where the car runs (poorly) and most of my electrical works. Running lights, front and rear turn signals, tail lights, license plate light all work.

I still do not have headlights. I thought it was the dimmer relay, then the headlight switch, but it turns out I do not have 12V to the X circuit with the key in the "ON" position. One of the first things I did on the car was replace the ignition switch (no power to #15).

Fuses are all fine - fuse 10 is on the X circuit, 16A, nothing blowing.

Is this pointing at the module/connector to the ignition switch? I noticed the #15 wire had some melted insulation, presumably an issue from the PO...

[ashman40]

With your new ignition switch you don't have 12v at the black/yellow "X" wire while the ignition switch is in the ON position?
You could remove the plug connectors from the bottom of the ignition switch and using a multimeter check for continuity between the #30 terminal and the "X" terminal while the key is in the ON position. If there is none, your new ignition switch may be bad.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[dansivilli]

Ashman, I sincerely appreciate the help - your diagnostic skill is really impressive.

Continuity looks ok at the switch between 30 and X plugs when the key is turned to "ON". It looks like the plug/harness at this point - I may shelve the headlights until the car is 100% mechanically, then replace the plug/harness.

Do people normally disassemble these plugs, then rewire them or buy the whole new harness?

[ashman40]

From the switch side of the plug you can take a small jeweler's screwdriver to press the small clips on the female terminals to release them from the plug.

You can see in the above pic each terminal has a slot where you insert the small screwdriver to release the terminal. The bottom right terminal is the most obvious, you can see down the slot and see the brass clip down in there holding the terminal in place.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}