CB linkage binding on alternator

Motor60 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 10:08 am Post subject: CB linkage binding on alternator

How do I get the hex bar not to rub on alternator? I'm using the lower holes on carb bases. Bought these from a guy who had them installed on a bus. Could the bases be wrong size? Also seems as if hex bar is too short

Motor60 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 10:15 am Post subject:

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Motor60 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:01 am Post subject:

The bar length is 20 1/8"

ChadCook · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:01 am Post subject:

The first engine I clearance the bar slightly. The second one I drilled and tapped a third pair of holes in the middle of the original holes.

Motor60 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:07 am Post subject:

What about bar length?

hsosa1 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:43 am Post subject:

Your going to raise them to the top holes
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Just Cruzin Sur Califas VW Car Club est♤1998

Bugzilla · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 12:11 pm Post subject:

bugguy1967 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 12:38 pm Post subject:

Your bar may have been already cut down for a narrower engine. As far as the alternator rubbing, it's obvious. Either buy taller manifolds, or move them up to the higher location.

Dr OnHolliday · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 12:46 pm Post subject:

Why not space the end pieces on the carbs, up higher?
_________________
1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust

Motor60 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 12:47 pm Post subject:

I bought the cb offset manifolds. They supposed to be made for this linkage right?? If I move them to top holes, now I face throttle cable bind. Bar was not cut.

mikedjames · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:11 pm Post subject:

Do you have shims under your cylinders ? could be the bus had a narrower engine without shims.

Nothing aftermarket will fit completely 100% properly except on the exact same engine for which it was designed.

The alternator housing is mostly aluminum and not amazingly structural - some PO has ground a hole in the side of mine and then re-filled it with JB weld to provide carburettor clearance at some time in the past.

You can probably file a shallow groove in the top of the alternator without going through the metal, or put some thicker spacers (you may find the original installations of that linkage used spacers) under the carburettors.

hsosa1 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:35 pm Post subject:

Motor60 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 3:45 pm Post subject:

I don't know if it has shims. It's a mofoco motor 1776. 8:1 compression

Motor60 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:28 pm Post subject:

How does everybody else mount this linkage??

babysnakes · Samba Member Joined: August 19, 2008 Posts: 7106

I had a similar issue. I went to the bicycle store and bought an old 90's style pulley with a sealed bearing. The type that were after market and used at the rear derailer. I fabbed an easy bracket and pop riveted it to the shroud.

( the rats nest has since been tidied up ) I'll take a better pick tomorrow when it's light outside..

Dr OnHolliday · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 6:28 pm Post subject:

What's with that clevis connection at the right carb??
_________________
1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust

Motor60 · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:03 pm Post subject:

Does anybody use CB linkage anymore? Or am I just spinning my wheels. I gotta get this motor back in the car.

mightymouse · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:15 pm Post subject:

i suggest a new hex bar since yours was cut so small. And then you can use an aluminum burr and put a small channel in the alternator body and remove some from the hex bar and it will clear with ease.
Looks like you may only need to clearance the hex itself.
Thats how mine is done.
Not much has to be removed.
_________________
Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
Thomas Jefferson

Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.

Dale M. · Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:07 pm Post subject:

Longer bar and use upper holes in brackets ... Shazzam.... It works...

Everything else looks ok....But move arms on hex bar out to as close to carbs as possible so link rod is as close to vertical as possible...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

74 Thing · Samba Member Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7391

Or you can get thicker gaskets between the carbs and manifolds-I know you are running Webbers. I run Dells and they have thicker gaskets to eliminate the whistle that those carbs are known for. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dellorto-DRLA-Anti-Wh...gasket.htm

Are you sure your shroud is all the way down and that the alternator stand and alternator are not causing a problem keeping the alternator a bit higher (I had a Chinese alternator with a German alternator stand that has a round nub facing the rear that aligns with the cut out in the alternator. Unfortunately the cut out in the alternator was off a bit so the alternator would not sit down so I had to get the dremel out and do some modification work.).


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