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sandhopper
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:44 am    Post subject: hood Reply with quote

Has anyone buit a hood from scratch ?
I have a body missing the hood , so far I have not found anything to fit
The body front is a little smaller than a Manx , the sides bow a bit more than the road runner
So I think this is one that needs to be custom , would like to see if anyone has tried this
Thinking of starting with some foam and laying fiberglass on that
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frizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:53 am    Post subject: Hood Reply with quote

I am in the same predicament , I have a Meyers Manx Resorter missing the hood and cant find one to fit , the Manx hood is too Wide , Cant find a person to Splash one from , So what too Do !
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think in both cases it would be easier to start with an existing hood and make cuts to either narrow or widen the hood, then reassemble it with wood and screws, V cut all the seams and rejoin them with with fiberglass, remove the wood and screws and build up the inside along the seams
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:
I think in both cases it would be easier to start with an existing hood and make cuts to either narrow or widen the hood, then reassemble it with wood and screws, V cut all the seams and rejoin them with with fiberglass, remove the wood and screws and build up the inside along the seams


X2.

Here is how I widened my hard top.

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Same thing for narrowing, just reverse.
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tgodber
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You did a very nice job on the hardtop. Impressive. That would be the way to go I think also.

Building a hood from scratch would be costly??
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "start with something" concept is a lot easier than starting with nothing (making mock up and them glassing over it).... The very subject came up a year or so ago and with a bit of search you can find original thread....

Fiberglass works easy meaning you can cut and grind and sand with any tools used for wood.... Wood blocks, screws and foam blocks and masking tape are wonderful fillers and such in aiding in glass layup.........

Dale
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WTS^^^

Definitely start with a regular hood and 'nip & tuck' until you get what you want, then maybe use as a buck to mould a new one from, or use 'as-is' if it turned out OK.
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monomanx
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I may add to this thread, if you decide to take an existing part and chop/cut/add/remove, you need to make sure and follow the symmetry of the part. Keep in mind little details like the wiper holes etc. If you plan to install wipers, the center to center distance is important unless you want to recreate the wiper frame etc.
Adding to either one side or the other will result in the areas that tuck into the fender lip of the body not lining up and making the hood sit crooked.

If you widen or narrow the hood, the dash will have to also be modified to fit.
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sandhopper
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 4:34 pm    Post subject: hood mods Reply with quote

Ok I tarted today with moding a hood to fit
The attached pictures shows progress
In on of the pictures you can see the gap between hood and fender , how can this be added or adjusted ?
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sandhopper
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 4:39 pm    Post subject: hood Reply with quote

The last picture really does not show the gap because of a shadow
In the front it is good , but about 8 -12 inches back I have 1/2 - 3/4 inch gap each side
Larry
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wvbowtieman
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would use a thick seal and move on. This seal would just make that gap look finished.

Style 2—EPDM Seals with Vinyl Grip
http://www.mcmaster.com/#trim-seals/=tm07n6
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mask off fender with several layers of tape and lay of couple of strips of resin and cloth on masked area of fender (that's right fender).... Place hood on body and full gap with foam to just below where finished surface will be..... Glass over the foam on all sides and even out where ever, with more resin and cloth and maybe some sort of fillers.... Be prepared for it to get ugly before it gets better....

Grind, sand, eyeball, fill, grind, sand and eyeball till satisfied with fit....

Alternative would be some sort of seal or welting as mentioned above....

Dale
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Run a #8-10 bolt through the fender and the edge of the hood. Tighten it up. You will be surprised how much the hood will move out to fill the space. The fenders tend to "droop" down over time without a hood attached and will move in to help fill the gap. You may have to use 4-6 bolts but you will see how well it might work for you by trying one.

When you do the final fit you may have to use screws where you cannot get your arm in to snug up the bolt. You could use nutzerts or glass/epoxy in the nuts on the inside of the hood.

Vince
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clonebug
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has that same gap and I have been driving it that way for 10 years now.
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep in mind none of these bodies are perfect. Just give it the best effort you can. It looks like you're well on the way to building your hood.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce used really big blind rivets on the Classic Manx hood
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tgodber
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say those gaps would close up if you had some short steel flat bar pieces with nuts welded on to run along the outer edge of the hood. Large fender washers on the fender side.

This would spread out the pressure and the gap would close easily I think.
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Modelling clay and alfoil works well. The alfoil needs no release agent and the clay is easy to shape. Or you can just use a hot mix and it will go off.


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karu
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 3:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Iguana wrote:
Modelling clay and alfoil works well. The alfoil needs no release agent and the clay is easy to shape. Or you can just use a hot mix and it will go off.





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Really nice work!!!

How expensive is modeling clay? Also how did you keep the symmetry?
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Iguana
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

karu wrote:
Iguana wrote:
Modelling clay and alfoil works well. The alfoil needs no release agent and the clay is easy to shape. Or you can just use a hot mix and it will go off.





Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Really nice work!!!

How expensive is modeling clay? Also how did you keep the symmetry?


Clay is cheap around $1 per lbs in most places. Just keep it out of the sun
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