2180 Bus Engine Build

aaaronw · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:38 am Post subject: 2180 Bus Engine Build

I've decided to build an engine for my '58 PGSG bus.

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This will be my first stroker and I feel like I'm already over my head. My last VW was a '57 oval window that I rebuilt in high school 22 years ago. Things have changed! I grew up in Chula Vista near Pauter's shop and was part of a pretty cool VW community at the time. I know from keeping up on the forums that the community is as strong as ever. That's one of the main reasons I've been itching to get back into a VW for quite a while and so I finally picked up a bus late last year. I've driven it a lot around town and had a lot of fun, but now it's time to put some power in this thing.

I'm not looking to race or do wheelies, I just want some more power with reliability and drivability my main goals. With some help from John at air-cooled.net, I think I've decided to go with a 2180 (82mm x 92mm thick wall P&Cs).

I plan to document my entire build here, and hope to get some advice as I go. I'm sure that I'll make some mistakes here and there, so I really value any input you guys are willing to give.

First decision I need to make is wether to use my old case or buy new. I'm almost certain that everyone here will tell me to go new, but thought I'd ask anyway. Is there any point trying to reuse this case? It's an AS41 from Mexico. I haven't split it open yet, but I did take a close look around cylinder 3 and I don't see any cracks.

Looks like it needs new case savers...

Is it even worth considering keeping? Should I dig deeper and clean it up and see how it looks inside? Or is it a waste of time?

jfats808 · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:51 am Post subject:

First off, sweet bus brother. Secondly, you need to come to an understanding that the safe route would be to buy a new case. After saying that, there's absolutely no reason why you couldnt use your mexi case-after getting it checked out or inspected fully by yourself. Depending on the available ma hine shop sources nearest you, you would be looking at 35$ or so each way for shipping. 60$ for opening bore, 25 est inspection fee (unless this is offered free), linebore if required w/thrust clean est 100$. F/f 35$ and clean and tap galleys 50-60$ optional. So right at 300.$ give or take.
There are nothing wrong with those cases. I have built a few engines in them. Have it cleaned and checked. This seems the cheapest route. Tell them to call u on status before completing any work. I suggest you first check the end play if u possess a dial indicator and mag base or endplay attachment tool. A ghetto quick way would be a depth gage reading to compare differences.
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Brian71 · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 3:57 pm Post subject:

Provided that there are no cracks or major defects in that case, there's no reason you can't use it. Even if there are some issues, its just a another piece of metal and as such very workable. If your case savers aren't stripped or cross threaded, theres no reason you can't reuse those as well.

esde · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 5:11 pm Post subject:

If it hasn't been line bored too many times, then there is no reason you can't use that case. Fitting a stroker crank can be a bit of extra work, and I personally wouldn't invest the time or money on anything past 20 over and the first thrust cut, but that's just me. Some guys don't want to build on a line bored case ever. Chevy journal rods will fit much easier than VW, but that has probably been mentioned. Very nice bus! Just joined the bus club myself..

VWCOOL · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:47 pm Post subject:

You won't see cracks just by looking at the outside... it must be disassembled and inspected by someone who knows where (and how) to look, inside and outside

Matthew · Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 2:58 am Post subject:

I don't see anything wrong with the case savers btw. The one in the 3rd photo is the "deep sunk #3" and you can't see that case saver without looking in there with a flashlight.
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aaaronw · Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:10 pm Post subject:

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to break it down and split the case. Brothers VW Machine Shop is close by, so I plan to drop it off there to get it inspected and bored.

aaaronw · Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 3:32 pm Post subject:

I broke the engine down today and will take the case to the machine shop next week.

Besides the case, what parts should I consider reusing from my old motor? Rods?

aaaronw · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 5:45 pm Post subject:

I'm trying to put together a parts list and need some advice. Here is what I'm looking at so far:

Keep in mind that my first priorities are reliability and drivability. More performance is a bonus, but not critical. To save a bit of money, should I consider:

Any other advice is greatly appreciated.

jfats808 · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:06 pm Post subject:

A cb crank will be cheaper than the Scat for sure. For your combo, the CB should be just fine and perform. Remember the more you spread out your vendors, the more shipping that equates. You dont need H beams for this set up. I suggest AA 4340 5.4 I beams.
Buy the crank, flywheel and rockers from CB.
Buy the heads, rods, cam, p/c's, and small stuff thru John at ACN.
Get the rotating parts balanced thru both vendors. imo
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2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

MConstable · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 9:23 am Post subject:

I'm a big fan of John and AC.NET, why not get everything from him?
Check out the Bugpack and DPR cranks, he carries both
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jfats808 · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:49 am Post subject:

The_Troupster · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 11:46 am Post subject:

Stick with the VW rod journal.

Jim
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aaaronw · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 3:58 pm Post subject:

The_Troupster · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:05 am Post subject:

It's stronger (less crank flex). You will have to clearance the 'case a little more and perhaps the cam. But this shouldn't be too bad on an 82mm crank.

Jim
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'71 Type 2

aaaronw · Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 2:09 pm Post subject:

My case is going to Paradise Motorsports this afternoon for inspection.

I have narrowed down my shopping list:

Any comments/suggestions?

74 Thing · Samba Member Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7393

Get rid of the Scat lifters and run CBs 2 piece ones.

aaaronw · Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 2:22 pm Post subject:

The_Troupster · Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 2:52 pm Post subject:

Yep.

Can't go wrong with john. Gonna be a nice motor Cool

Jim
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'72 Type 1
'71 Type 2

Bajaman65 · Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 3:17 pm Post subject:

I agree with the CB lifters, been running them for years with no failures.
For about the same money you can get a set of Steve Tims Heads that are fully ported and run great.
Be sure to check the PC set because most of the AA sets that I have installed were a bit tight on piston to cylinder clearance.
I have had great luck with the thick wall 92's once I fine tuned the bore size.
It sounds like a nice solid engine, enjoy Wink


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