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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 11:53 pm    Post subject: pre-made skid plate Reply with quote

I was looking into skid plates and decided that a pre-made one is the best option for me right now. Maybe later on I will fab one up but I just have too much other stuff I have to do to my baja right now. So does anyone know what kind of metal this is made out of? Steel? Aluminum? How thick is it? Would it work for a full size baja being run on pretty rocky areas? Definitely not being used on just sand. Mostly dirt, gravel, clay, fire roads with rocks and tree limbs etc. Also where exactly is the front of it mounted? Any drilling required?

http://chircoestore.com/standard-off-road-skid-plate-for-dune-buggy-39-s-and-baja-bugs.html?___SID=U

Thanks!

Cortland
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2RL
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks similar to what I have under my rail. If so, its steel, about 1/8" thick or so. The front is supposed to attach to the trans nose mount, but I have it on the floor (it fit there better) and the back attaches to the rear of the engine with those L shaped pieces, but I used muffler clamps instead and attached it to the cage. Its seen lots of rocks and stuff thrown at it, and hasn't bent any, plus its wide enough to protect the pushrod tubes fairly well.
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oldschool5er
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is steel and take it from me that if you are running through rocky areas and hitting the skid it will be bent up in no time at all, I used that style skid on my baja in the early days. (difficult to get it back on if it is bent up), But it will provide protection if you are not trying to use it as a rock crawler. If you have good suspension height it will work. I know you said you have limited time but in the long run I think aluminum skids are the best. I use T3 aluminum and have it bent and fitted, then I send it out and have it treated to T6, if you don't treat to T6 you will bend the T3 just like the steel. I will post you a pic of a T6 skid after 6 Baja races and you can see what I mean if you want. That skid was used like a rock crawler sliding it over boulders and coming down the summit in Baja many times in a limited suspension and is still good today.
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Axitech
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speed limit signs work great if you are just trying to keep thrown rocks off your engine's bottom. Don't use my name when you get caught though!
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Brian
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Axitech wrote:
Speed limit signs work great if you are just trying to keep thrown rocks off your engine's bottom. Don't use my name when you get caught though!


I have some "legally" obtained ones that I was planning on using.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldschool5er wrote:
It is steel and take it from me that if you are running through rocky areas and hitting the skid it will be bent up in no time at all, I used that style skid on my baja in the early days. (difficult to get it back on if it is bent up), But it will provide protection if you are not trying to use it as a rock crawler. If you have good suspension height it will work. I know you said you have limited time but in the long run I think aluminum skids are the best. I use T3 aluminum and have it bent and fitted, then I send it out and have it treated to T6, if you don't treat to T6 you will bend the T3 just like the steel. I will post you a pic of a T6 skid after 6 Baja races and you can see what I mean if you want. That skid was used like a rock crawler sliding it over boulders and coming down the summit in Baja many times in a limited suspension and is still good today.


Steel is a better option for me because I can weld on it if needed, I don't have TIG.

It won't really be "rock crawling" more like driving down a dirt road, a occasional rock or stump or log/tree branch that is sticking up from the ground, half buried in dirt that I will hopefully avoid but I want a little insurance in case I don't. Or going into a mud pit and not being able to see that piece of something under the water that might poke a hole in something. It will be at pretty slow speeds.

Do you think it will be adequate for this kind of usage?
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oldschool5er
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure it will work, road signs too Lol, if you are not dragging the chassi over stumps, boulders, or rock steps, It surely is better than nothing and offers some protection to the case and pushrod tubes. I would not attach it to the engine case at all if that is the design, better to the rear cage. I think I have an old skid made out of a New Mexico Road sign Lol. Kinda thin though.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe double up for more protection Wink

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My first skid plate was 1/8" steel. I bent the crap out of it. My second was 3/16" and it's still holding up.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldschool5er wrote:
Sure it will work, road signs too Lol, if you are not dragging the chassi over stumps, boulders, or rock steps, It surely is better than nothing and offers some protection to the case and pushrod tubes. I would not attach it to the engine case at all if that is the design, better to the rear cage. I think I have an old skid made out of a New Mexico Road sign Lol. Kinda thin though.


Whats with everyone and road signs? Lol. No stumps or boulders really just medium sized rocks and branches/limbs. It might get dragged over dirt and stuff like that with smaller sized rocks but nothing too big.

Yeah mounting it to my engine cage was the plan, only really needed to know where the front mounted. Is the trans nose cone an ok place or should I move that mount point one as well?
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about this "racing" style they have, anyone know what all is different about it?

http://chircoestore.com/racing-off-road-skid-plate-for-dune-buggy-39-s-and-baja-bugs.html
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or this one from air-cooled.net, the thickest one they have is 12-gauge.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going off-road, use two street signs separated by a 1/4x20 nut at each corner and one in the middle. Just sandwich the nuts in between the two street signs. Personal experience tells me a 55 sign on the bottom and a 35 on top gives maximum performance. Wink
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to put the link to the one at air-cooled.net
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/HD-Skid-Plate-For-Use-w-Heater-Boxes-p/5535.htm

Since everyone is so keen on street signs where do you get them legally?
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That one looks like it mounts to the motor itself
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A question that sould have been asked before everyone started throwing ideas Laughing
What do you have to mount your skid too? bumper cage ect? Pics?

a street sign is very thin and soft, It would need to be ran along a solid flat surface. it will fold unsupported.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A question that sould have been asked before everyone started throwing ideas Laughing
What do you have to mount your skid too? bumper cage ect? Pics?

a street sign is very thin and soft, It would need to be ran along a solid flat surface. it will fold unsupported.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I have to mount too:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Yeah I would never do a street sign lol.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one of the 3-piece skidplates. It's made of 13 gauge steel, close to 3/32"/.095" thick.
I've beat the crap out of it for 40 years and 450,000 miles.

See how bent up it is?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note that I've used the L-brackets that came with it and turned them around to mount to the bumper tubes instead of to the lower rear engine case bolt. NEVER mount it to the case bolt unless it's a show only car, even then it's not right.

This is why it doesn't look too bent:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Yeah I've had to beat it out flat a time or a hundred. This is after pre-running the Barstow course for the Freedom 250 a couple or 3 years ago. hit the top of a submerged rock and dented/bent the cage tube as well as the skidplate. That's just part of offroading. If you don't dent your skidplate, quit offroading in parking lots!

This skidplate of mine has been rockcrawled over the top of the Sierras and gone many places the Jeep club guys swear a 2WD CANNOT get to. I have one of the delta wing ones too out back, It hasn't been used as hard as the 3-piece, but that's not by plan.

My HiJumper has skidplates made of 1/8" diamond plate. Minor bends were achieved with a Ford F100 Pressbrake. Sit the plate on the curb, put a 4x4 on top on the bend line, and drive my F100 on top of the 4x4. 35 years later, they look fine.

Your cage will be fine for mounting a skidplate to Cortland. I mount the front forward of the torsion housing. Make it as tough to snag the leading edge as you can. The back edge should be pretty close to even with the back edge of the engine case.
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Cortland15B
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dustymojave wrote:
I have one of the 3-piece skidplates. It's made of 13 gauge steel, close to 3/32"/.095" thick.
I've beat the crap out of it for 40 years and 450,000 miles.

See how bent up it is?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note that I've used the L-brackets that came with it and turned them around to mount to the bumper tubes instead of to the lower rear engine case bolt. NEVER mount it to the case bolt unless it's a show only car, even then it's not right.

This is why it doesn't look too bent:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Slave labor is only illegal if it's not your own kid... Cool

Yeah I've had to beat it out flat a time or a hundred. This is after pre-running the Barstow course for the Freedom 250 a couple or 3 years ago. hit the top of a submerged rock and dented/bent the cage tube as well as the skidplate. That's just part of offroading. If you don't dent your skidplate, quit offroading in parking lots!

This skidplate of mine has been rockcrawled over the top of the Sierras and gone many places the Jeep club guys swear a 2WD CANNOT get to. I have one of the delta wing ones too out back, It hasn't been used as hard as the 3-piece, but that's not by plan.

My HiJumper has skidplates made of 1/8" diamond plate. Minor bends were achieved with a Ford F100 Pressbrake. Sit the plate on the curb, put a 4x4 on top on the bend line, and drive my F100 on top of the 4x4. 35 years later, they look fine.

Your cage will be fine for mounting a skidplate to Cortland. I mount the front forward of the torsion housing. Make it as tough to snag the leading edge as you can. The back edge should be pretty close to even with the back edge of the engine case.


http://vwparts.aircooled.net/HD-Skid-Plate-For-Use-w-Heater-Boxes-p/5535.htm

http://chircoestore.com/racing-off-road-skid-plate-for-dune-buggy-39-s-and-baja-bugs.html

http://chircoestore.com/standard-off-road-skid-plate-for-dune-buggy-39-s-and-baja-bugs.html

http://www.mooreparts.com/5476-AC800000-C%2A/

http://www.mooreparts.com/5475-AC800000-W%2A/

Out of these skid plates, which one do you think is the best?
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