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reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1927 Location: Bloomington, IN
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Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:07 pm Post subject: Steering box install |
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I am installing the steering box and I was wondering if anyone had any advice on doing it. I am reluctant to use a rubber mallet to force it back in the clamp on the steering column but as of right now I can't get it to completely install far enough into the shaft/clamp. Is it supposed top be a very tight fit? The clamping bolt is removed right now.
Thanks, _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21519 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 9:58 am Post subject: |
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Ok...bear in mind it only properly fits one way because the splines from the shaft get impressed into the split clamp over time.
The best way I have found to work with this is to open the passenger door and remove the carpets....put down some padding so you dont beat yourself up. Work laying on the passenger side floor.
Unser the steering column remove the two boots...vertical....that hold the column to the edge of the dash. This allows some fore and aft mivement of the steering column.
Let the steering shaft and clamp hang out of the way of the gearbox shaft.
Install the steering box first and bolt it up to the body. I install the rubber bushing into tje body first...then push the steering box onto it. Lube the snout on the box with some silicone dielectric grease or vaseline.
The car should be jacked up and left front wheel off to install the box. Once I have the snout of the box inserted in the rubber bushing....use a 3/8 rod thdough one of the bolt holes in the fender well wall to aligb the gearbox with the holes and to take some of the load off your hand from holding it up.
I am right handed....but I sit on a low stool facing rearward on the car with my left shoulder under the fender holding up the gearbox. I arrange the bolts on the floor...make sure, you have anti-siezed them first.....and put the washers of them (I think they had washers).
Put the rod through a hole and pry lightly to align a bolt hole. Screw in a bolt. Then all three. Torque them according to spec.
Then inside of the car....the steering column should be loose and rattley.
Make sure the steering box pitman arm is centered...like car moving straight ahead. Turn the pitman arm just enough so that the bolt cutout in the shaft is facing you laying the passenger floorboard. ....so the cutout will be at about 1:00 position.
Remove the bolt from the split shaft clamp. Take a large flatblade screwdriver and place it in the split of the clamp....hold onto the steering wheel and pry lightly to spread that clamp.
You should be able to now fit it onto the end of the shaft. Push forwarf onto the steering wheel and twist a little. It should pop on. Line up the bolt hole in the clamp with the shaft cut out and insert the bolt and tighten. Make sure your steering wheel is not turned 180° wrong. Tighten the bolt.
I use anti-sieze on the shaft end also.
When you get time...send back your unrebuilt box to me. No hurry....but I get nervous without my spares! Ray |
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reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1927 Location: Bloomington, IN
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Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:46 am Post subject: |
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Don't worry Ray you will be getting the steering box The whole 411/412 community is lucky to have you around. I am so close to getting this thing on the road. I am taking my time to make sure any potential rust issues are dealt with and make sure I do not destroy anything unobtainium so the going is slower than I would like. On top of that having two little ones demanding time makes it even slower. It will be a solid ride when I am done. Everything you have said about the front end is right. My center link was not in the best shape on one end. the idler bushing was not in the best of shape, at least not enough to be a daily driver. But i do have alot of respect for the car i like how it was constructed. _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21519 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 11:17 am Post subject: |
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Yes....I came to the same conclusion after I really started working on them. Also.....I have totaled two of them. The first (my first car a marathon blue 1972 411 4 door)I was broadsided at 40 mph by a Cutless 442 . The car held up well but was totaled.
The other ( my second one was a gold 1973 412 4 door) I broadsided an F-150 van when a traffic light failed. It humped the hood up about 4" and smashed the bumper and rumpled the front end. Bent the crumple zone 2". I knew it was totaled...but I drove it for 6 weeks with no issues until I found a donor body to put all the driveline and suspension parts on...a primer gray 1972 411 wagon.
These are pretty well designed and built cars. If you could just get your two little ones to do some of the work without violating some or all of the child labor laws this would all be easier.
Let me know if you need a centerlink. I have two rebuilt right now. I can swap you one to save time. Ray |
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reluctantartist Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2006 Posts: 1927 Location: Bloomington, IN
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Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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I have a NOS centerlink I am planning to use. And then rebuild the old one. I figure that would buy me a few years of use and anyway I will need to be ever vigilant about rust underneath so just another reason to get underneath and look around. _________________ 1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them. |
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raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21519 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2014 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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reluctantartist wrote: |
I have a NOS centerlink I am planning to use. And then rebuild the old one. I figure that would buy me a few years of use and anyway I will need to be ever vigilant about rust underneath so just another reason to get underneath and look around. |
Really....I have been exactly where you are. It is my advice to not use the NOS centerlink ....the DS 858. It is NOS. ...which means it is at least 25 years old minimum. The defect in ut is the nylon that was used. It dies whether the unit was in use or not.
It will have a short life and when it goes...you will not know it. It will simply start wearing out the new parts you are putting in.
Give it 6 months or 5000 miles max.
Its easier to just rebuild an old one and do it right.
I am about midway through new silicone ball joint boot molds tonight. They should be done this week. The centerlink boots are next. Then silicone speedo cable boots....both ends. I need them all to install my front end. I know it sucks....but I have purchased six NOS DS-858 centerlinks since 1999. I went through through all of them on one daily driver car by 2002.
Ray |
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