Empi 40hp Piston/Cylinder set - Quality or rubbish?

remerus · Samba Member Joined: March 02, 2014 Posts: 109

Hi Gents,

I am looking for a new set of Pistons / Cylinders for my 40 hp in my 63 beetle.
I have come across these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221538054002?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

They are Empi and about all I have been able to find locally here in Sydney Australia. I am able to get a set from a second source locally but have been informed that they are of Chinese manufacture also but short of importing them from abroad I am not spoiled for choice.

Now I have heard people on both sides of the fence as to empi's quality on other items but are these any good or just plain crapola?

I really wanted to use the originals out of the motor but my machine guy mentioned that they are a little out of spec.

glutamodo · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 3:16 am Post subject:

I'm sure those are AA sets with an EMPI sticker slapped on the side of the box.

http://aapistons.com/

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

BWD · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:17 am Post subject:

I don't see anything in that ad that says EMPI! AA pistons are good!
_________________
BWD
JHC
member #2850
1966 Beetle
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remerus · Samba Member Joined: March 02, 2014 Posts: 109

remerus · Samba Member Joined: March 02, 2014 Posts: 109

henry roberts · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 5:33 pm Post subject:

personally I'd go straight to a 83mm bigbore set. 1000's of people have used 83's with good results and even if you're a stock freak no one would ever know if you didn't tell them (or leave them, in their stock 40hp, behind at the lights).

http://www.bugparts.com/piston-and-cylinder-kit-83mm-40hp

glutamodo · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:05 pm Post subject:

Yeah, me too. You often have to clearance the case in one or two spots, due to poorly shaped piston blanks, but other than that, the 83s are good.

remerus · Samba Member Joined: March 02, 2014 Posts: 109

henry roberts · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 4:43 pm Post subject:

they are a slip in fit. so no machining. I believe you may be able to get away with piston skirt modifications for clearance. I haven't fitted a set yet, so will cross that bridge when I eventually get to my 40hp.

a quick search here should give you plenty of testimonials of how you can feel the performance improvement. (which is why I'm so set on using them myself)

glutamodo · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:34 pm Post subject:

Yeah, you can machine the piston skirts - but you'll have to do all 4 pistons, and make sure the weights match afterward.

thomas. · Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 3:19 am Post subject:

I used the AA 83 mm when I rebuilt my '65 40hp in my '62 bug. They were a direct replacement without clearance work. Started on the 1st click the 1st time I started.I use to run a Judson supercharger when it was a smaller 1200 and the 1385 compares to that except I get 31 or 32 mpg on reg gas now. The differerence in power's like night & day.

BruceJ · Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:48 am Post subject:

Am currently building up a 1385cc with my '63 40-hp case and 83mm AA piston set. Since I'm using the original case I'm very hesitant to do any more unnecessary grinding, shaving, or machine work to it than is absolutely necessary (though align bore and other misc work was done). Would rather clearance the skirts and rebalance the pistons.

Two questions, though:

1. How can I tell if clearancing is needed? I mean, is it obvious? For example: with the case all buttoned up, I hook up one of the new 83mm pistons to the #3 rod and pull the engine through slowly (via the pulley), holding the top of the piston in my free hand. Holding the piston as level/centered as I can, it descends, goes through BDC, and comes back up with no detectible interference. However . . . if I stop at BDC and rock the piston around a bit, or slide it side to side, there is some metal-to-metal contact in there. In comparison, the previous pistons (also 83mm, but of unknown manf. and with a different skirt design) seem to have much more wiggle room at BDC.

2. If I need to shave some off the new pistons, any tips on where/how much? Obviously, will need to shave the part that may (or may not?) be interfering, but any other tips before I have at it?

Thanks!

glutamodo · Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 8:02 am Post subject:

Usually it's only one or maybe two cylinders that are a problem - here's an example: (this is a late Mahle piston and cylinder, I've been told the AAs are clones of them but I've not done a side-by-side comparison)

BruceJ · Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 8:17 am Post subject:

^^^ That's a great pic -- I've seen it in another thread. Since my case is all closed up I can't see in there nearly as nicely as you've shown, but by feel, when I rock the piston back and forth at BDC, I'm betting it's touching in the same place.

Thing I'm wondering, though, is how much clearance do I need? Like I said, it cycles through smoothly, and it only feels "iffy" when I wiggle it at BDC. Thinking maybe I should just go ahead and do it if there's any question, for my peace of mind.


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