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First bus - 71 deluxe
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sgbdoe
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:48 pm    Post subject: First bus - 71 deluxe Reply with quote

Hey everyone,

I have been lurking on this site for a long time now, and decided it was time to finally buy a bus. I found this one, and decided to get it. I'm completely new to everything, but I think I can figure things out as I go.

The bus has a couple bad rust spots, but aside from those it is fairly decent (I think). The guy who owned it before the woman I bought it from built a custom interior that's alright, but I hope to buy some original seats at some point. The engine runs well (mostly) and has lots of new parts. Brakes and transmission are good.

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Rust:
-Rear right corner
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-Left side rocker
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-Other rust is minimal and doesn't look as bad. Those spots look like this:
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When we went to look at the bus before purchasing, we took it to a mechanic to get an idea of what needed work. The ride there wasn't smooth at all; the bus was sputtering the entire way. The mechanic pointed out that the fuel in the fuel filter was a dark brown color and we learned about rust in the fuel tank. After this, we took the bus to a VW shop to have them fix that and a few other things, but all they did was change the filter. After a couple days of driving around, the fuel in the filter has gone from clearish yellow to brown again.
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I read the fuel tank restoration guide on ratwell's site, and I think that is what I need to do. I understand that I would need to pull the engine, and was wondering how hard that would be for someone who doesn't know anything yet to do. Could I just follow directions and pull it?

Thanks.
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Type1pos
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a bad looking Bus at all! Your lucky to have the Type 1 upright engine, a lil easier to pull than the Type 4. Ratwell and Bentley are your best friends in this situation, it's not that tricky of a job. Congrats on that deluxe!
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sgbdoe
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Type1pos wrote:
Not a bad looking Bus at all! Your lucky to have the Type 1 upright engine, a lil easier to pull than the Type 4. Ratwell and Bentley are your best friends in this situation, it's not that tricky of a job. Congrats on that deluxe!


Thanks man! I think I'll try to do that tank restoration this weekend.
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ultralite
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greetings from a fellow Early Bay in the South!

Yes, Bentley will prove to be a great friend. I love mine, available on Amazon.

And don't forget Youtube, I've done a few things to my Westy using videos from others.

Where in NC? I've got family in Charlotte, great town. Anyway, if you're on the west side of the state, after you've gotten in some miles around town, you owe it to yourself to take it up on the Blue Ridge Parkway for a cruise.

Welcome and enjoy!
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ultralite
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, I got carried away and forgot to mention the engine pull.

Though I had owned 2 Beetles previously, I never had to pull their engines. With the Bus, I've been determined to be able to do anything and everything.

I've pulled the engine twice. Once to replace all my fuel lines and the second time to replace my clutch assembly. My wife and kids helped me. We had a great time.

I'd recommend a spot where you can leave things until the next day if necessary. Or the next weekend for that matter. That way, you don't feel rushed and you can really enjoy the learning process. That's not to say it takes a really long time, I don't think it does. But, you may decide to do things like scrub the engine bay down or clean up the engine itself. Or just poke around for the sake of curiosity.

I followed the directions in the Bentley manual and found a video or 2 on YouTube. It is a HUGE confidence builder in the maintenance of your VW
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sgbdoe
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why is the fuel in the filter so low? This is from right after a drive.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The filter may look low due to vapor pressure in the gas you buy, is that certified ethanol free premium or plane Jane regular? If it's not guaranteed ethanol free you'll want to swap all of those braided fuel lines for a barrier hose that carries a J30R9 rating or higher, that stuff can start peeing fuel in a few months with cheap gas. Also there's no need to have a fuel filter there, if you don't already have one put it ~6" from the tank outlet, that way it intercepts all the crap in the gas and saves the fuel pump and also prevents the brass nipple from vibrating out of the carb due to the added weight (use you imagination how that ends).

Next topic is that trashy air filter Wink
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sgbdoe
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started using ethanol free, but when I pull the engine for the gas tank I'll switch to the barrier hoses.

busdaddy wrote:
Next topic is that trashy air filter Wink

What air filter should I get?
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nodrenim
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I were you I would locate a stock air filter, they do a very good job, as do most things that the little elves in the Black Forest came up with. Best of luck with your new adventure.
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camit34
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great find! I 2nd the stock air filter.
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pitbug
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great find! I lived in Jacksonville, NC for 25 yrs, when I retired from the Navy I returned to Texas.. anyhow... you may want to move the fuel filter to the underside of your bus behind the motor, A lot of people do that to help reduce chance of fire?? if it cracks, IDK if it helps, but cant hurt..I have it there in my 4 VWs. just my 2 cents. Others may think differently Laughing
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crukab
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a good project, and as many will say: 1971 is one of the best years for a Bay, 1st year of the vacume assist Brakes & the Dual port engine.
The engine pull is not that hard, the biggest pain is the "Mustache Bar", but it is all do-able, try finding some like minded Bus folks in your area, We are every where.
If you do not have a good large floor Jack, get one, also do you have a garage ?? If not get a sheet of 3/4" plywood, it makes engine pulling a bit easier.
Mostly: READ, Reserch, the info is here on the Samba, just hunt it down.
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sgbdoe
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting weird popping sounds from the engine, especially in lower gears, which I think are coming from the carb. It started after I adjusted my valves. I just went back and rechecked all of them and they seem right. Also adjusted the timing which didn't help. Any ideas?
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Amskeptic
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sgbdoe wrote:
I'm getting weird popping sounds from the engine, especially in lower gears, which I think are coming from the carb. It started after I adjusted my valves. I just went back and rechecked all of them and they seem right. Also adjusted the timing which didn't help. Any ideas?


Does this popping occur under acceleration or deceleration?

Is there jerking that accompanies the popping?

Colin
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sgbdoe
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amskeptic wrote:
Does this popping occur under acceleration or deceleration?

Is there jerking that accompanies the popping?

Colin


Acceleration. It gets really rapid at around second gear. No jerking.
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shiningstar76
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that bus Euro? Or did someone just put Euro brake lenses on it? Metal dash would be another indicator.....or the M-code plate for sure.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sgbdoe wrote:
I'm getting weird popping sounds from the engine, especially in lower gears, which I think are coming from the carb. It started after I adjusted my valves. I just went back and rechecked all of them and they seem right. Also adjusted the timing which didn't help. Any ideas?


what clearance did you adjust the valves to?

what temperature was the engine (room, hot etc)?

How did you set the timing?
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sgbdoe
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:

what clearance did you adjust the valves to?

what temperature was the engine (room, hot etc)?

How did you set the timing?


Adjusted the valves to 0.006" on a cold engine. Set the timing to around 31 degrees maximum advance with a timing light.
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Artvonne
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check dwell and/or swap condensers. With points ignition you really want solid copper core plug wires. Wires for electronic ignition have higher resistance, with points you want low resistance wires. You also want to run the correct plugs. Points may put out lower voltage, but they have much higher amperage. Any place it can leak out it will burn real fast.

I seem to recall .008 and .010 int and ex clearance, but its been a 100 years.

When I pulled mine I got to where I would just balanced it on a floor jack. Once it was free I just rolled it out on the jack while steering it/balancing it with my other hand and lowered it onto wood blocks and went to town. After 20 or 30 times I could do it in my sleep, lol.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.006 is where they stop making noise. .008 is probably fine but really clangy. One way that you definitely should never do your valves is by tightening the valves and then setting them right at the point where you can spin the push rod with your fingers.
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