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Gustav Petri Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2004 Posts: 140 Location: NORWAY
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Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 2:21 am Post subject: Brake spring kit and 22mm fix |
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Where do you guys get the brake spring kit.
Have anyone got the 22mm reconditioned, who could do this work. |
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Gustav Petri Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2004 Posts: 140 Location: NORWAY
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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Everyone running old springs? |
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djfordmanjack Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2009 Posts: 2103 Location: Graz, Austria, Europe
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Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:33 am Post subject: |
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I think it is a very rare case, when the wheel cylinder spring will be damaged or rusted beyond use. I have been repairing brake cylinders for decades and have always used the old springs, they only serve to push the rubber cups against the pistons. You can still buy the 22mm rubber cups from ATE, I just got some sets 2 weeks ago. Most probably the outer rubber dust cups are discontinued, but I have reused originals many times.
the wheel cylinder can only be repaired if the rust pittings are minor and shallow. are yours stuck and/or rusted ?
If you can't find someone close to you to repair them, contact me ! _________________ Hotrods, Fords, Veedubs and Triumph Twins !
Barndoor + Kohlruss Coachbuilt and Oval afficionado
52 Barndoor DLX Coachbuild project
55 Wolfsburg panel project, og paint Taubenblau L31
62 Dickholmer, custom color Seeblau L360
63 1500 Notch, og paint Rubin Rot L456
67 1500 Käfer, og paint Lotus weiß L282 w/red interior |
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52panelvan Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2006 Posts: 350
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 3:47 am Post subject: |
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Look in the bore of the cylinder and see where the pits are, you have to remember that the cylinder will all ways be sat for many years in the closed position due to the brake springs and the worst corrosion often takes place on the inner area where the cups are not sealing anyway.
Sand paper, your little finger (finger choice is optional ) with a very light oil will clean up most of the bore and I use something like these to finish the bore off, simple bit of kit that uses an electric drill
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kennedy-4-in-1-Pro-Cylin...19e603ff86
although im sure I didn't pay that much for it...
so far I have had no issues, always worth going back to the wheel cylinder front or rear after a few miles and checking to see if its getting wet in the cups to be sure especially if you are single circuit.
The worst part is usually getting the bleed nipple out, i always despite my best effort seem to break them off and they are an absolute pain to sort out once snapped.
As for the internals on the 22mm if they are completely toast, Type 3 rear wheel cylinders of some year i forget now are the same bore size, virtually the same rubber cups and springs/caps although they are plastic end caps internally and not metal as the originals but it makes zero odds.
I don't know on the external brake springs sorry, even though alot of mine have actually ended up rusted away as i always buy sheds i have managed to find /beg / borrow more.
Hope this helps _________________ Austrian Kohlruss Deluxe
January 1954, 20-072397
The Kohlruss Barndoor Restoration - https://www.facebook.com/groups/641684399225180/
Instagram - rustykohlruss |
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streetwagens Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2005 Posts: 475 Location: Wales, GB
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 4:22 am Post subject: |
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Type 3 rear cylinders are 22.2mm bore, so work really well once the bores are honed. All the internals can be used along with the outer seals.
_________________ To catch a fish, you must first think like a fish.... |
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