manxter #154 build

jrailer · Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:43 pm Post subject: manxter #154 build

time to start a page here are some photos of my progress over the last two weeks

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

donor bug

found a loose clutch tube and had to make a hole to weld it down now clutch cables will be a lot easier

dbsmith · Samba Member Joined: October 16, 2012 Posts: 240

Great pictures. Keep up the progress. It looks like she needed to be brought back to life.

David
_________________
dbsmith
SoCal
#127 Manxter - 99.5% done....

Iguana · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:36 pm Post subject:

Sweet another Manxter being born, did you get your Body picked up ok ?

jrailer · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 2:31 pm Post subject:

I don't think the body will be done until early November that's the estimated time winnie gave me think I will have the pan all done by then I got the front brakes and lines in this week I will get more photos of it up

jsturtlebuggy · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 3:27 pm Post subject:

Hi jrailer,
Nice to see another Manxter in the works.
Just a couple of things I see you may want to look at.
The hole you cut in the side of the tunnel near pedal assembly, can be a place cracks start happening.
Iguana has some really nice reinforcing rings that he installs on the pans for his buggies. There are pictures here on the Samba showing them. They actually set higher and you weld them on, and make a cover plate to fit.
The place the pans start cracking is around the E-brake handle (it even happens in stock Bugs used in off roading). If you are not going to use the heater levers you can cut them off and make a flat plate that covers the area that fits around the E-brake handle and weld it on. Iguana also makes a cover to weld on to cover the area. His actually cover the top and part way down the sides for even more support.
I have a Manxter Dual Sport that I finished in 2008 and it is a very fun buggy to drive.
There is a group of buggist that go to Moab in May from California and Colorado to play for a week or more.
_________________
Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

jrailer · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:00 pm Post subject:

Wasn't planning on to much off road and i was thinking about welding up the heater levers

jrailer · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:06 pm Post subject:

Double post

Iguana · Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 11:03 pm Post subject:

I would do it anyway as even streeters will crack.

Also add some pivot bolt locks of some sort as you don't want them falling out as so often happens

jrailer · Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:49 am Post subject:

ya I have had many bugs come in with those missing
are you talking about the heater lever slots or the front cracking or both how much are your plates?

jrailer · Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 2:12 pm Post subject:

update just got a call from manx body will be here this week wow

vincent9993 · Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:01 pm Post subject:

jrailer · Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:54 pm Post subject:

this is my old buggy built in the early 80s had to sell it in 95 to get into my house still looks like the day I sold it

Iguana · Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:57 pm Post subject:

Iguana · Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:59 pm Post subject:

wvbowtieman · Samba Member Joined: September 16, 2010 Posts: 195

That is a good idea...I installed mine using a 1/4" x 20 and a Nylock nut. I like the flip pin idea also. Cool

jrailer · Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:01 am Post subject:

that would be great would love to see it at the Meyers shop

herkster · Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:30 am Post subject:

Hi Bow Tie,

What size is that piece of pipe/ tubing welded for a retainer?

Anyone think you could drill the bolts and safety them like in aircraft?

Regards,

Herk

wvbowtieman · Samba Member Joined: September 16, 2010 Posts: 195

jsturtlebuggy · Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:34 am Post subject:

1 1/2"x .090" wall x 3/4" long tubing slips right over the factory flange for the pivot bolt.
There are other ways to retain the bolt. A 17mm nut welded to a tab with a hole in fits into the bolt head, then another tab with bolt hole welded to torsion housing, then using a bolt through both tabs will keep bolt from turning.
Safety wire has been tried in the past in off road racing, because the stress the bolt sees as pivot point it usually causes safety wire to break.
_________________
Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960

herkster · Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:54 am Post subject:

For me the collar would take up what little space I have to remove the bolt when working on it with 1/2 drive tools (that's probably my issue). Conversely, I'm thinking I could "safety" the collar to the bolt with any luck.

Unfortunately, I'd have to remove the bolt to drill it or take it to be drilled. The good news is that the body is not yet on the chassis.

Has anyone reported problems when peening the bolt to stay (the old school way)


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