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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:43 pm Post subject: manxter #154 build |
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time to start a page here are some photos of my progress over the last two weeks
donor bug
found a loose clutch tube and had to make a hole to weld it down now clutch cables will be a lot easier |
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dbsmith Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2012 Posts: 240
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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Great pictures. Keep up the progress. It looks like she needed to be brought back to life.
David _________________ dbsmith
SoCal
#127 Manxter - 99.5% done.... |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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Sweet another Manxter being born, did you get your Body picked up ok ? |
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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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I don't think the body will be done until early November that's the estimated time winnie gave me think I will have the pan all done by then I got the front brakes and lines in this week I will get more photos of it up |
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jsturtlebuggy Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2005 Posts: 4496 Location: Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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Hi jrailer,
Nice to see another Manxter in the works.
Just a couple of things I see you may want to look at.
The hole you cut in the side of the tunnel near pedal assembly, can be a place cracks start happening.
Iguana has some really nice reinforcing rings that he installs on the pans for his buggies. There are pictures here on the Samba showing them. They actually set higher and you weld them on, and make a cover plate to fit.
The place the pans start cracking is around the E-brake handle (it even happens in stock Bugs used in off roading). If you are not going to use the heater levers you can cut them off and make a flat plate that covers the area that fits around the E-brake handle and weld it on. Iguana also makes a cover to weld on to cover the area. His actually cover the top and part way down the sides for even more support.
I have a Manxter Dual Sport that I finished in 2008 and it is a very fun buggy to drive.
There is a group of buggist that go to Moab in May from California and Colorado to play for a week or more. _________________ Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960 |
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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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Wasn't planning on to much off road and i was thinking about welding up the heater levers |
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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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Double post
Last edited by jrailer on Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:26 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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I would do it anyway as even streeters will crack.
Also add some pivot bolt locks of some sort as you don't want them falling out as so often happens
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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:49 am Post subject: |
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ya I have had many bugs come in with those missing
are you talking about the heater lever slots or the front cracking or both how much are your plates?
Last edited by jrailer on Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:46 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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update just got a call from manx body will be here this week wow |
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vincent9993 Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2006 Posts: 2025 Location: Montreal
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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Iguana wrote: |
I would do it anyway as even streeters will crack.
Also add some pivot bolt locks of some sort as you don't want them falling out as so often happens
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That's a very interesting idea but can you still punch/lock the bolt? To improve on the design, I would recommend adding an extra hole to allow punching the bolt in place on the grove. |
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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:54 pm Post subject: |
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this is my old buggy built in the early 80s had to sell it in 95 to get into my house still looks like the day I sold it
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:57 pm Post subject: |
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vincent9993 wrote: |
Iguana wrote: |
I would do it anyway as even streeters will crack.
Also add some pivot bolt locks of some sort as you don't want them falling out as so often happens
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That's a very interesting idea but can you still punch/lock the bolt? To improve on the design, I would recommend adding an extra hole to allow punching the bolt in place on the grove. |
Nope we thought about it but it would be a bit hard to allow for the fact the punch location is dictated by the inner bolt and can end up anywhere.
The design is such that the retainer pin is flat sided against the head once tight so it won't really allow the bolt to do anymore than say 1/3rd of a turn. |
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Iguana Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008 Posts: 922 Location: SOCAL
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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jrailer wrote: |
update just got a call from manx body will be here this week wow |
Yeah Yeah Rad Body was ready for shipping today when I was over there picking up some parts. I snapped a few pictures of it if you would like me to post let me know and I will upload to here for you. |
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wvbowtieman Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2010 Posts: 195
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 5:22 am Post subject: |
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That is a good idea...I installed mine using a 1/4" x 20 and a Nylock nut. I like the flip pin idea also.
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jrailer Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014 Posts: 150 Location: utah
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:01 am Post subject: |
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that would be great would love to see it at the Meyers shop |
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herkster Samba Member
Joined: February 14, 2013 Posts: 428 Location: Boca Raton, FL
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:30 am Post subject: |
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Hi Bow Tie,
What size is that piece of pipe/ tubing welded for a retainer?
Anyone think you could drill the bolts and safety them like in aircraft?
Regards,
Herk |
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wvbowtieman Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2010 Posts: 195
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:41 am Post subject: |
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herkster wrote: |
Hi Bow Tie,
What size is that piece of pipe/ tubing welded for a retainer?
Anyone think you could drill the bolts and safety them like in aircraft?
Regards,
Herk |
I used a scrap piece of 1-5/8" O.D. DOM mild steel tubing. I guess you could drill thru the large socket head but I'm guessing it's hardened. |
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jsturtlebuggy Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2005 Posts: 4496 Location: Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:34 am Post subject: |
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1 1/2"x .090" wall x 3/4" long tubing slips right over the factory flange for the pivot bolt.
There are other ways to retain the bolt. A 17mm nut welded to a tab with a hole in fits into the bolt head, then another tab with bolt hole welded to torsion housing, then using a bolt through both tabs will keep bolt from turning.
Safety wire has been tried in the past in off road racing, because the stress the bolt sees as pivot point it usually causes safety wire to break. _________________ Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960 |
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herkster Samba Member
Joined: February 14, 2013 Posts: 428 Location: Boca Raton, FL
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:54 am Post subject: |
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For me the collar would take up what little space I have to remove the bolt when working on it with 1/2 drive tools (that's probably my issue). Conversely, I'm thinking I could "safety" the collar to the bolt with any luck.
Unfortunately, I'd have to remove the bolt to drill it or take it to be drilled. The good news is that the body is not yet on the chassis.
Has anyone reported problems when peening the bolt to stay (the old school way) |
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