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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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 Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 11:50 am Post subject: |
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| they should update the manual to fill in some of these build secrets it tells you to bolt the body down first but you can see how that will fight you |
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Tom_Kathleen
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Joined: August 26, 2004
Posts: 919
Location: Vernon, CT
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| Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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One of the other "tips" they don't mention is to have the body as far forward on the pan as it will go and the roof support system as far back as possible. This will help with the hood/windshield/dash fitting. Tom
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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| thanks for the tip Tom I pushed the body as far forward as I think it will go |
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Tom_Kathleen
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Joined: August 26, 2004
Posts: 919
Location: Vernon, CT
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| Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Good. One other tip - if there is a gap between the roof support system and the body, don't pull them together, make spacers and you will avoid stress cracks in the future. Tom
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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| ya I ordered some aluminum carb spacers that will fit nice |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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| So are you saying to pull the body off and fit the cage to the side bars first or just bolt the body to the side bars and cage before the pan? |
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Iguana
Samba Member
Joined: April 19, 2008
Posts: 922
Location: SOCAL
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| Posted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 11:20 pm Post subject: |
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| jrailer wrote: |
| So are you saying to pull the body off and fit the cage to the side bars first or just bolt the body to the side bars and cage before the pan? |
Hi,
Sorry for any confusion.
The usual build sequence I go with is as follows:
- Fit the beam onto the pan, fit the rear transmission support onto the horns. If you have help and can get the body on easily then you can bolt the side bars and rear droppers on at this point.
- Place the body on the ground and put the roof support system inside. I do this as putting it in on the ground is much easier than stepping over the pan unless you have help. You can do it either way. The end result is that I want the body sitting on the pan and the roof support system sitting inside it. I usually blue tape all the mounting points and brackets as well as sand then smooth as the edges can be sharp. If required use a strap to pull the legs in for easy fitment.
- Walk the body and roof support on from the front and sit it on the pan. Slide the body back as far as possible and sit it on the pan.
- Now the rear corners will be the easiest to line up so I do them next and have them pull the body back. Keep in mind that each bar set is a set and has been made in a jig with 1/4" spacers to emulate the fiberglass body. The biggest variation you often find is with the height of the roof support system due to variations in foot pad placement. The height is set by this so once the rear corners are bolted down I bolt the rear foot plates down. There is enough flex in the Manxter Cage to line this all up as required. Some people like to do it the other way and as long as you keep enough space to get your spring plate covers on and off and your rear foot is tight in the corner there should be no issues.
- With the front foot plates you sometimes need to push them outwards to get them snug against the body, you can do this with a small bottle jack. Once you have them out drill their holes and bolt them down.
- With the body bolted down, the front, rear and middle hoops bolted down you can now drill the holes for your side bars. I start with a 1/8" pilot hole to ensure I get them aligned. If my pilot is off them I angle it to get both plates. If something is going on then you can always re-drill the outside plate to suit your inside holes. Only the inside holes are seen so they need to be neat. Any issues outside will be covered by the washer provided and have no effect on the strength.
I hope that makes sense, any questions please ask.
I will have a chat to Winnie about getting the manual updated to make it clearer.
The big thing is that unlike the early Manx's the side bars are dictating where it all sits relative to the front beam. Not every beam is the same and many have been hit so there is always going to be some tweaking. |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 6:19 am Post subject: |
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| Ok thanks for the help that makes it less confusing I will get that all fitted then pull it back out for powder coating |
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dbsmith
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Joined: October 16, 2012
Posts: 240
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| Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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Where the side rails hit the front beam, you may have to grind a bit to get them pulled out far enough to clear the zurt fittings..
David
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dbsmith
SoCal
#127 Manxter - 99.5% done.... |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Was wanting to get alot done this weekend but I have been sick as a dog merry Christmas to me I did get everything set in place still need to bolt it all down |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Please ignore the messy garage |
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dbsmith
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2012
Posts: 240
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| Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 7:47 pm Post subject: Manxter #154 |
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I found a picture of your buggy on my t shirt..
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dbsmith
SoCal
#127 Manxter - 99.5% done.... |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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| What the hell no one cleared that with me lol |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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| well before I drilled the first hole in this new body I found some stress cracks. I hope that they don't spread any further. I did get the cage bolted down and it didn't put any more stress on the rear they are about 2 inches long. I dont remember seeing them before but the light just hit it at the angle to see them now |
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dbsmith
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Joined: October 16, 2012
Posts: 240
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| Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:43 pm Post subject: Buggy update |
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It's been awhile.. Any updates as to progress? Your probably driving it to work by now.. 
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dbsmith
SoCal
#127 Manxter - 99.5% done.... |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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| I got the steering column in I have had honeydues every weekend |
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TSFR
Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2013
Posts: 365
Location: Columbia, SC
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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any more on the spider cracks? Have you bolted the body down? I ask because I'm getting ready to order my kit at the end of the month.
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Thanks,
Jeff
Manxter 2+2 #160 |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Haven't found any other ones and I did get everything bolted down. You can barely see them you have to get just the right angle |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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| This is the same spot |
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jrailer
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2014
Posts: 150
Location: utah
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| Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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A little update I got the rear cover cutout for the alternator
Last edited by jrailer on Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:26 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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