My first bug '64

[m4co]

Hello all, thought I'd join to the forum seeing how much knowledge there is on here. I will definitely need all the help I can get, I never had a 'old' car before and thought why not? when I saw this one pop up on eBay.

I bought it thinking it was a '67 but when I started stripping it down the chassis number revealed it was a '65. Once I started getting ready to do a simple restoration meaning pretty much a paint job and new seals things started to unfold. I had pretty much bought a lemon. The body was not salvageable, just rust, bog and fiberglass. So then I was on the lookout and found a virtually rust free '64 body that I have waiting for when I finish with the chassis. So yeah in the end it will be a '65 chassis with a '64 body. It will take a whole lot longer to finish but I've got to finish what I've started haha

Some pics...

When I bought it

When I started stripping it down

(the doors were pushed in so the bar was keeping them form buckling in)

[m4co]

Now the body is off and I'm almost finished with the chassis and ready to start on the new body.

[63Ragtop NZ]

Nice work on the pan, what paint did you use on it?

good move finding a better shell, that thing looks like a nightmare!
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If you can't join them, beat them!

[m4co]

[m4co]

Also got some things done today, first I ordered a gearbox gasket set as mine is leaking from everywhere and I found out that I need a 17mm hex key to undo the fill and drain plugs. I don't have one so I decided to improvise

Found a bolt with a 17mm head and a random imperial socket that I will never use. The bolt fit nice and snug into the socket size 3/8

And it works!

Got a new steering coupling installed

Finished off the soundproofing and installed the pan seal

I have decided the direction I want to take with the bug, I want to make it look like it has been out in the elements for 50 years for the patina but without the cancerous rust.

The guards that came with the original shell were filled with a nice thick layer of bog as well (no surprise there) so I stripped them back and begun the rusting! Have just been randomly watering it and rubbing some salt on it for seasoning haha
Did a dust coat of some matt black for effect

[m4co]

Getting ready to seal up the gearbox with new seals and put in new wheel cylinders and shoes.

There was oil everywhere on the rear brakes, as well as a heap of loose material like dust (do the shoes still have asbestos?)

Also found more silicone...

Off it came:

What are these holes? They were just sealed up with silicone.

[m4co]

Is there meant to be plugs in the three hole above on the gearbox? Not sure if I should plug them or not.

Ordered a bunch of parts today and made this little thing for fun.

Original

[m4co]

Got some work done!

Lowered the rear one notch and installed 2.5" drop spindles. The king pin did not want to come out easy, after a few hours of trying to beat it out with a hammer I just went and bought a 20 ton press. It pushed them out like butter...

Oh and I also ordered some j-tubes to replace the heater boxes, even they were patched up with bog that disintegrated as soon as I touched it!

Now, how do I fire up the engine to take the chassis for a little joy ride? I have no clue about anything to do with wiring. I only know how to jump the starter to get it to crank with a screwdriver

What needs to be connected to the voltage regulator? This is it currently:

[sixfootdan]

Great work so far, Keep up the good work. I miss that Victoria Bitter beer you have down there.
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Schrodinger's cat walked into a bar and it didn't.


GO SEAHAWKS!!!

[m4co]

[m4co]

Well after a new coil, plugs, leads, points and condenser I got it started. However it is running extremely rich, when I pulled out the the brand new plugs they are black!

I statically timed it with a test light at 7.5 BTDC but it wasn't running all that smooth, if I rotated the distributor counter-clockwise a little it became to run better. Does it matter if the static timing is off 7.5 degrees if the engine runs smoother? Also, the carb I have is a Solex 30 Pict-1, is that a correct carb for a 1200?

Also did a compression test today and all four cylinders were between 95 - 105 psi.

[dubjeep]

Very nice. The pan looks good.
What are your plans for the front clip?
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"Harvey"--My 1970--http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=495804

[m4co]

[m4co]

After connecting the brake hoses it looks like they are now a little too short with the drop spindles. I'm worried there is too much strain on them at full lock. Is there longer brake hoses to suit 2.5" drop spindles?

I can get the engine running now but pretty rough and a lot of black smoke, it is running really rich. I'm sure it has to do with the carby, it is leaking fuel everywhere and the mixture adjustment screw doesn't really do much to fix it. I'm thinking of ordering a EMPI 30PICT-1 carb. Anyone had experiences with it?

New clutch and accelerator cable

Bump stops

J-tubes

A dodgy accelerator with a door hinge as a pivot

Also went and had a go at repairing the big cracks on the steering wheel with epoxy

[m4co]

I haven't given up on this Bug yet. Been slowly ordering parts and working on it. I'll have a few months for uni break coming up so I'll try get a majority of the work done then. I'm trying to buy German stuff when I can but this is starting to get expensive

I like how my emblem has turned out...

[jwold]

Good work so far. Glad you didn't loose heart over your project, keep up the good work!

[m4co]

[m4co]

This is the drivers door I will be using. It was a $10 door that was rusted out at the bottom and had mirror holes drilled into it. I was only practicing making and welding patches on the door but it turned out pretty good so I sanded it down, used some primer, and then rusted it out over a few months with hydrogen peroxide mixed with salt, water and vinegar. Worked out pretty good