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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 6:59 am Post subject: Westfalia or Vanagon on MaxJax hoist? Yup! |
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I'm doing some mods on my shop to get 10ft out of my 8ft ceiling with the help of $600 of LVL beams A MaxJax hoist is also on its way. There are many examples online of folks lifting full size trucks, and capacity is 6000 lbs. The colums are "portable" and dual hydraulic, so can be quickly moved when required.
I can find references on the Samba only to a VW Thing on this hoist. If anyone is using with a vanagon, I'm interested in max spacing on the columns for the vanagon. Target is 128"
_________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape
Last edited by denwood on Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:26 am; edited 2 times in total |
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hans j Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2006 Posts: 2715 Location: Salt Lake City UT
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:39 am Post subject: |
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128" should be fine. I'll try to remember to measure my hoist while at work. I have a "wide" version and love it. And since it's symmetrical, I pull up in front of the posts and open the door easy. I believe the outside foot print on mine is 144" wide. _________________ 1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17155 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:53 am Post subject: |
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Can't help with the lift, be am interested in how you are using the beams. My garage has about a 96 inch ceiling, but has conventional roof trusses. I'd like a 12, foot ceiling. Lots of videos on you tube, but raising a roof is a huge project. _________________ ☮️ |
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dobryan Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006 Posts: 16505 Location: Brookeville, MD
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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:14 am Post subject: |
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I'll post pics of the roof mods. I have a stick framed roof about 5/12 pitch, with truss ties limited the current ceiling at 8 ft. The garage is 16x24 so quite compact. I'm opening up a 16 vaulted coffer by removing 16 ft of truss ties.
You can't just remove truss ties willy nilly, so just under the ridge inside we'll be installing an LVL beam, then taking this load down to an LVLs at both ends (via 3ft posts) which will span the 16 foot wide garage. There will be storage at both ends in the small attic space, and an area 16x16 inside with vaulted ceiling This will allow a max of 10ft lift given a Westfalia roof. I have it modelled in Visio and can post a few sketches if there is interest.
Doby, once any vehicle is elevated, particularly on a two post hoist, a rated jack stand at both ends in combination with the hoist locks and you're much safer than floor stands.
The nice thing about this lift is that you quickly unbolt the columns and relocate. This fellow has a set of anchors installed in his concrete outside his garage.
Link
_________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape
Last edited by denwood on Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:22 am; edited 1 time in total |
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dobryan Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006 Posts: 16505 Location: Brookeville, MD
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17155 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:22 am Post subject: |
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Dennis I am very interested in your project. My trusses run from the front to the rear. It is also a wood frame garage. I am not a structural engineer, but tend to overbuild things. I have bookmarked this thread. I am considering pouring a slab on the back of my garage and adding a rear door and a steel pole barn. Need to figure out how to tie it into the existing roof. Unfortunately, the roof lines would run opposite to get the height of a pole barn. _________________ ☮️ |
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dobryan Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006 Posts: 16505 Location: Brookeville, MD
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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:47 am Post subject: |
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Alaric's garage roof would fail code here unfortunately. What he's done is built a modified scissor truss. In these parts with high snow loads, a scissor truss is typically half the pitch inside as outside. So an 8/12 pitch outside is a 4/12 inside, and the web structure is designed so 100% of load at the walls is downward with no outward component. Unless walls are externally buttressed,they are not designed to take side loads from a roof. Taking out truss ties and replacing with collar ties installed much higher up (even with some added bracing) will not prevent the outside walls from bulging out and potential collapse under high snow loads. For about $600 in beams, not worth the risk IMHO. You can also load up the center beam for light hoist duties in summer for example providing you don't exceed snow load limits. I'll have those numbers and post them up.
If you fully support a stick framed root at the peak it becomes a center ridge design, where the center ridge is designed to take the load and transfer it to end wall structure.
This picture pretty much describes my mod perfectly. The only difference is that the LVL beams going across the garage are designed to handle the 16 ft span with no support.
Pic reference: http://www.structural101.com/Structural-Ridge-Beam.html
_________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape
Last edited by denwood on Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:55 am; edited 3 times in total |
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dobryan Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006 Posts: 16505 Location: Brookeville, MD
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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:06 am Post subject: |
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Dob, I did check out that Bendpak hoist. The reason I decided to do the Maxjax is more because the dual hydraulic cylinders make the columns independent so you can remove one or both in the time it takes to remove 5 bolts. My shop is used for wood working, automotive painting from time to time, etc. so it's nice to nix the hoist if required. A few interweb guys have left one column installed, built a table to go over the lift arms and used it as a work table.
In a much larger garage, a four post with center jack setup would be my preference. Back in highschool days I had a part-time job servicing Bell line trucks and vans...so spent a lot of time around hoists. I really like the stability of a four post but it's not practical in my shop. _________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape |
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hans j Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2006 Posts: 2715 Location: Salt Lake City UT
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Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:33 am Post subject: |
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The INSIDE dimension of my hoist is 108". That is the most inside portion of the hoist where the arms pivot. They are about 5.5" wide each, so add the measurement between the inside of the posts is 119"
_________________ 1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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Dave, here is the paper work for the beams. You can see the six Micro-Lam beams as well..to get to our load targets, we'll use two for each of the 3 beams required. You'll also see the cross beam detail showing how it's permissible to cut the cross beam ends to match the roof slope. They'll slide right in beside the rafters and rest on the walls. A few jack studs to reinforce in the walls, and all done. There's a before picture of the shop (my place came with this garage..so lemonade from lemons here..) The lift should be here next week...so we'll be busy.
will look like this when done:
_________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape |
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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:13 am Post subject: |
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So eight hours of labour, and we go from eight foot ceiling...
The mess of improperly installed/ventilated insulation has to go, spray foam to come:
to this. I was able to do everything except the top beam by myself. For the top beam, my brother, a few beer and 2 hours did the trick. Although glue was not called for in the spec, I used PL Premium construction adhesive as well as the 6d ardox nails and laminated the beams in place. This made it a lot easier to lift them. I now have 10'2" of clearance across a "window" of 6ft x 16ft. This should allow approx. 40" of lift on the MaxJax for the Westfalia.
_________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape |
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Jake de Villiers Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007 Posts: 5911 Location: Tsawwassen, BC
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buildyourown Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2009 Posts: 1668 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:02 pm Post subject: Re: Westfalia or Vanagon on MaxJax hoist? |
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denwood wrote: |
I can find references on the Samba only to a VW Thing on this hoist. If anyone is using with a vanagon, I'm interested in max spacing on the columns for the vanagon. Target is 128"
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Did this pic come from a Samba member? I've seen that garage on Garage Journal and I'm remembering he also had a Vanagon. |
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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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Jake, yes, the ridge beam is sitting on 4x4s at both ends the bracing is screwed, PL premium glued and 6d nailed to the 4x4 to ensure it stays put. I still have bracing (small collar ties) on the ridge beam to install to tie it into the existing roof stringers and brace it. Probably will add in hurricane straps too, although code here does not call for them. I'll run 2 16ft stringers along the side of each coffer, about 40" in, to brace as well as create a shelf that runs on each side of the shop, 8ft up. Spray foam adds a lot of rigidity, and the entire roof will be done.
build, yes, the Thing pic is from the samba gallery. _________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape |
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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:38 am Post subject: |
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Bracing and more clean up to come..
_________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape |
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teej Samba Member
Joined: November 26, 2010 Posts: 897 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 6:35 am Post subject: |
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I like it! One Q: have you verified solid post/continuous load path behind the wall plywood to take the load all the way to the foundation?
Gives me ideas for our truss roofed shop!
Thanks for posting! _________________ 1986+ Wolfsburg Weekender Pop-Top 2.3 WBX Manual Trans |
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denwood Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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Teej, I'm just going to add two laminated 2x4s under each beam on the inside, will cut them a bit long, and sledge them into place. Each roof stringer is sitting directly over a stud in the wall, so right now there is just one. When I'm done there will be effectively three studs glued with PL premium and nailed as well. Screws are not recommended as they loose sheer/compression as soon as the end snaps...so 3" 6d ardox(twist) nails are used.
I had given up hope of a higher ceiling without replacing the roof, but I saw a scissor truss garage with storage at both ends at garagejournal.com which got me thinking. To be honest, on my first visit to Unitized (the truss/beam guys) they had no suggestions really for me other than a new roof with scissor trusses. On the second visit, I pitched (pun intended) the ridge beam concept and they agreed it would work...then ran the numbers for me. Beams were here the next day. I'll continue with a few more posts and finish with the Westy on the hoist. Here's a bit more bracing detail with straps. I also added 2x6 blocking and hurricane straps where the beam/stringers meet the outside walls...spray foam next.
_________________ Cheers,
Dennis Wood
The Grape |
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