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Just Bashed My Buggy Bummed Out
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 1:26 pm    Post subject: Just Bashed My Buggy Bummed Out Reply with quote

Hi Everyone. Well I guess when you daily drive your buggy the percentage rate goes up for having an accident. It was my fault,no one was hurt and best of all there were no law enforcement/insurance companies involved. I would just like some ideas/opinions I what I should do to fix it. There are some spider cracks that my not be visible in the pics. Thanks everyone.

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gr8cobbler
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not going to be the type of help you are really asking for but an interim solution I discovered on a used car lot is to put a nice looking bra on it ..... Confused Now it's a feature!

Sorry to see the damage to a very nice looking buggy, hope you get some good help from the forum.
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Cobbler. My friends said that too. Lol. I guess my real question is Should I fix it or just get a new body? Winnie Meyers looked at it at the Big Bear Manx Club get together and says it's a Manx. What are the chances of matching the gelcoat. Slim to none?

Last edited by Glassy Guy on Wed Sep 24, 2014 4:55 pm; edited 2 times in total
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williamM
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taking a page from boat repair, it can be backed up with roven wove and ved out to be filled bondo and then clear resin with sparkles and Candy alple red paint. done right it will be hard to detect.

Go to you boat yard or insurance co to find the right skilled person.
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome William. That is exactly what I wanted to hear. Thank you very much.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The repair is relative minor.. first take some rubbing compound to hood and see what marks come off.... As for fender about one full Saturdays work to repair ripped fiberglass... If you are careful you might not even need to remove hood..

Real problem is going to be paint...If you can not color match, a little bit of primer is not bad...

If you decide to get new body... I want to be first inline for old one...

Dale
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Dale. Thank you for the response. Yeah I know it's not that bad. I did rub out the black marks already. I had to remove the hood as the dash came separated from the hood as they were glassed together. I found a gentleman who does unbelievable gelcoat and fiberglass repairs. Like you he said if I can find the matching flake the rest is no sweat. I was just on the Meadowbrook website to check it out. There is a bit of spiderweb cracking not visible in the pics. I think I'm going to hang on to the body and repair/restore it rather than getting a new body that I have to start all over again with. Things that come to mind are What if it doesn't fit the chassis as well etc. Oh I'll keep you in mind if I decide to let the body go. Lol.
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frizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:42 am    Post subject: Manx Reply with quote

What did you hit any way? , It can be repaired; only one who will know , will be you , could have been your barracuda : Your buggy won best of show to didn't it ? Well I'm sure you will get her back to normal ! good luck!
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Frizzy. I hit a Ford F-250 in front of me just 4 blocks from home. The light turned green and the truck started moving I looked to my right side for a second and Bam the truck wasn't moving anymore but I was. Yes I did win Best Of Show in Bulleton/Solvang. I have to try get a match for the flake. I really hope I can. If not I guess I'll just do the whole body. I sold the Barracuda and now I have a 65 El Camino. Thank you very much for the support.
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im super excited as I have found some Red Flake that is a perfect match for my buggy. I was questioning if I would ever find a match. Im hoping to have her back on the road again by mid March. I found 2 sources for the flakes. One was Great Lakes Skipper and the other was C&O Marine. Carol Newnum was a great help. The customer service was just incredible. A fading business practice. Mike Brooks at Color Pro gave me the lead to C&O Marine and Carol. These folks all took the time to help me above and beyond and I just wanted to share their info if someone is in need. Thanks again to all for the support and suggesting looking at the fiberglass boating industry for help.
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Buggy Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Richie,
I was wondering if you had gotten her fixed up yet, and how that flake worked out for you? I appreciate the help you gave me a while back, and am having mine painted right now. The meadowflake number you gave me (10P) is the new number that matches the older 10E, since they now do polyester jewels instead of the aluminum/metal jewels. Can't wait to see how it comes out.

Hope all is well with yours.

Brian
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Brian. Great news on the flake match. My buggy is repaired. Currently I'm waiting to wet sand and buff it out. It has a lot of clear on it. The gentleman who shot the flake said that it was not Poly Flake but actually Metal Flake. He came to this realization when he wet sanded between clear coats and the flake was showing the silvering effect of the metal flake when sanded too far beyond the clear coat. The color was a perfect match though. I'm no expert by any means so I am just repeating what my painter said. If someone can reinforce this thereoy by all means please do. He was a bit perplexed as to how there was Metal Flake still available in the quantity I purchased in. I got it form Great Lakes Skipper Boat Supply. It was very inexpensive as well. He choose to shoot the whole buggy as opposed the blending it into the repaired area. It was more expensive and I'm hoping it will look as good if not better than before. Sorry for the late reply also. Good luck with your buggy.

Last edited by Glassy Guy on Mon Apr 06, 2015 4:25 am; edited 1 time in total
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Buggy Brian
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to hear! Can't wait to see the after photos!
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GG
The new poly flake will "tip" the same way the the original aluminum based flake would. You are sanding away the translucent color layer exposing the base silver layer.
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Surfnc. That is what thought may be going on. Thank you Brian. I will post some pics when she is done.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Everyone. I have some questions about the final finishing of my buggy. I personally have never wet sanded/buffed a car before. I know it's a lot of work. I'm not scared of that as much as I do not want to burn through the clear coat. I know some of you folks have done this before and was looking for suggestions. Should I attempt this or hire a pro detailer? What do you think the cost would be for a professional to do it? Thank you in advance.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First question is does it need it...... The clear coat on mine came out super and I have never sanded of buffed it.... It just gets a good coat of wax ever year (or not -depends)...

If you are going to buff it out use a very fine cut polish and don't don't stop in any one place....

Personally I would have a pro do it, but then I'm in process of doing a Chevy extended cab pickup and it gets bigger every day...

Dale
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is a fine touch to wet sand, buff then polish a finish. If you have never done it before, I suggest getting someone who knows how to help you or do it for you. The proper tools, sanding blocks, paper, compounds make a huge difference in the final product.

If you do not have the orange peel texture on the clear, leave it alone. At a later point in live, you can still do it ti remove scratches.

I sand, buff and polish all my buggy's and paint jobs because I do not have a good environment to paint in, and it gets the dirt and insects out of my finish. I have sanded through the finish, burnt edges, ruined top coats and about every screw up imaginable.
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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Glassy Guy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Dale and Joe. I had it flaked and cleared about 4 weeks ago and from what I remember it seemed like it need the next level of shine or gloss. I will see it again soon and go from there. I left the day after it was done so it has lots of time to cure. Thank you very much for the help and advice.
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surfnc
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
It is a fine touch to wet sand, buff then polish a finish. If you have never done it before, I suggest getting someone who knows how to help you or do it for you. The proper tools, sanding blocks, paper, compounds make a huge difference in the final product.

If you do not have the orange peel texture on the clear, leave it alone. At a later point in live, you can still do it ti remove scratches.

I sand, buff and polish all my buggy's and paint jobs because I do not have a good environment to paint in, and it gets the dirt and insects out of my finish. I have sanded through the finish, burnt edges, ruined top coats and about every screw up imaginable.


X2

Richie, Joe has put it very well!

I would add a few points.

When wet sanding you can start with 1500 grit if you are worried about going through the clear and "tipping" the flake. It will take a while to get rid of the "orange peel" but it will do it. In fact 2000 grit will work but again the time will be longer. This will give you a chance to get a good feel for wet sanding though.

I would also add a few drops of dish soap in your clean water bucket. This helps to keep the paper from clogging too fast and helps extend its life and cutting ability.

Vince
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