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tide Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2014 Posts: 33 Location: SF Bay
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:11 pm Post subject: Replacing Intake Manifold |
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Bought a used 74 Ghia as a first time project, learning the ropes. Evidently not the original engine (69 Beetle perhaps) and the manifold is missing the pre-heat tubes. Ordered a replacement, but before I just randomly take things off I noticed some people say to pull the engine. If you're just replacing the intake manifold, what would be your recommendation for easiest path to success. I'm wondering if this isn't maybe a great idea for myself if I have to pull an engine. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51149 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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It depends on how much you trust the rest of the engine, pulling it will give you the opportunity to replace some seals and confirm all the tin is installed properly as well as looking for debris in the cooling system. It'll also make that exhaust/intake job way easier.
Or run it as is and find out the hard way, PO suprises suck. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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tide Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2014 Posts: 33 Location: SF Bay
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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I wouldn't know if anything was properly installed. But I gotta start somewhere. |
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74 Thing Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7393
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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There is an old saying, there are VW owners that have pulled their own engines, and there are VW owners that will pull their engines. |
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HRVW Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2011 Posts: 2531 Location: Rosarito, Mexico
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Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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Working on the top end of a Ghia engine is a piece of cake with all kinds of room to work.
Key issue would be the specialty tools that make the work a lot easier then with the standard wrenches.......about an hr and a half for me. |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31378 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:15 am Post subject: Re: Replacing Intake Manifold |
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tide wrote: |
the manifold is missing the pre-heat tubes. Ordered a replacement, but before I just randomly take things off I noticed some people say to pull the engine. If you're just replacing the intake manifold, what would be your recommendation for easiest path to success. |
Ghia has substantial space compared to a beetle, I would leave the engine installed for this. Pull the fan shroud off, replace the oil cooler seals unless you confirm there's been zero leakage there; get the correct seals for your engine and cooler type, don't trust just year of the Ghia.
You'll need new intake manifold gaskets. I'd get an S-shaped or C-shaped box wrench to allow for easier carb R&R once the manifold is installed, but in your case the carb can be left on and swapped over with the manifold out of the engine. Don't overtighten oil cooler or intake manifold-to-head nuts. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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tide Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2014 Posts: 33 Location: SF Bay
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:16 am Post subject: |
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Well I have no smog and no oil cooler (engine appears to be pieced together from someone's shop) so at least I got that going for me. |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31378 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 11:02 am Post subject: |
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tide wrote: |
Well I have no smog and no oil cooler (engine appears to be pieced together from someone's shop) so at least I got that going for me. |
Sure you have an oil cooler. Stock is inside the fan housing, on #3/#4 side.
Only reason for no oil cooler there would be because someone removed it and put on an aftermarket one somewhere. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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tide Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2014 Posts: 33 Location: SF Bay
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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Do you see now my level of knowledge. |
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SBD Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012 Posts: 3269 Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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tide wrote: |
Do you see now my level of knowledge. |
Buy a manual. You'll need it sooner or later anyway. _________________ "Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
mark tucker wrote: |
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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gt1953 Samba Member
Joined: May 08, 2002 Posts: 13848 Location: White Mountains Arizona
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:36 am Post subject: |
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Join up with a local club. Take a look at an engine that is removed and see what all it needs or has. Take your time and be safe. _________________ Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.
72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold}) |
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tide Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2014 Posts: 33 Location: SF Bay
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:53 pm Post subject: |
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One question on the replacement manifold, it has a vacuum line on the left side, where are the hobbled junk that is there now does not. I've done all the digging I could do visually, by not clear if I ordered wrong manifold or not. Question is where does that vacuum line go if it "should" be there? |
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tide Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2014 Posts: 33 Location: SF Bay
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:55 pm Post subject: |
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The number on my block is unreadable. Local mechanic thinks its a 69 1600, but no way to tell without pulling everything and this is the wife little toy. For now I just want it 'running good enough' for something that will likely only see 1-2k miles a year, then this winter we'll start planning a custom engine. |
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awreed Samba Member
Joined: January 14, 2010 Posts: 1268 Location: Kirkland, WA
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Universal manifold. That vacuum line port on left probably goes to a stock vacuum advance distributor. If you don't need it (probable) push on a short length of fuel line and turn in a screw to the end of that to block it off. Or you could weld the thing shut. Either way, make sure it's plugged good or you'll have some odd running issues with the motor. |
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tide Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2014 Posts: 33 Location: SF Bay
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Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 10:06 pm Post subject: |
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After careful deduction and manual reading, to goes to the air cleaner. However my air cleaner is missing the thermostat and cold air hose, so it's not worth hooking up at this time. I'll cap it off with hose and a screw until such time as I find another air cleaner with all the parts. |
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Howard 111 Samba Member
Joined: July 09, 2005 Posts: 1827 Location: Virginia
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Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 11:36 pm Post subject: |
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You can find various sized rubber caps in a package, at most auto parts stores for almost nothing. We have Auto Zone, and Advance auto in this area. |
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tide Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2014 Posts: 33 Location: SF Bay
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Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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Good tip, picked up a misc pack at Amazon for $11. |
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Quokka42 Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2010 Posts: 3117 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 3:11 am Post subject: |
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Yeah, a screw tends to leak - but golf tees work really well, and you can find them laying around! _________________ There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross. |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31378 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:43 am Post subject: |
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Howard 111 wrote: |
You can find various sized rubber caps in a package, at most auto parts stores for almost nothing. |
I've had those vacuum caps only last 1/2 year in my truck in Arizona, the heat kills them....I'd get some real-good quality ones instead. On my truck ('88 B2200) there are about 10 unused vacuum ports, and I use short pieces of vacuum tubing and wooden golf tees (even broken ones) which last years longer. Funny - the original Mazda vacuum caps on that truck are still fine. So quality counts. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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