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Replacing Intake Manifold
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tide
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:11 pm    Post subject: Replacing Intake Manifold Reply with quote

Bought a used 74 Ghia as a first time project, learning the ropes. Evidently not the original engine (69 Beetle perhaps) and the manifold is missing the pre-heat tubes. Ordered a replacement, but before I just randomly take things off I noticed some people say to pull the engine. If you're just replacing the intake manifold, what would be your recommendation for easiest path to success. I'm wondering if this isn't maybe a great idea for myself if I have to pull an engine. Laughing
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It depends on how much you trust the rest of the engine, pulling it will give you the opportunity to replace some seals and confirm all the tin is installed properly as well as looking for debris in the cooling system. It'll also make that exhaust/intake job way easier.

Or run it as is and find out the hard way, PO suprises suck.
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tide
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't know if anything was properly installed. Laughing But I gotta start somewhere. Smile
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74 Thing
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is an old saying, there are VW owners that have pulled their own engines, and there are VW owners that will pull their engines.
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smile Working on the top end of a Ghia engine is a piece of cake with all kinds of room to work.

Key issue would be the specialty tools that make the work a lot easier then with the standard wrenches.......about an hr and a half for me.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:15 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing Intake Manifold Reply with quote

tide wrote:
the manifold is missing the pre-heat tubes. Ordered a replacement, but before I just randomly take things off I noticed some people say to pull the engine. If you're just replacing the intake manifold, what would be your recommendation for easiest path to success.


Ghia has substantial space compared to a beetle, I would leave the engine installed for this. Pull the fan shroud off, replace the oil cooler seals unless you confirm there's been zero leakage there; get the correct seals for your engine and cooler type, don't trust just year of the Ghia.

You'll need new intake manifold gaskets. I'd get an S-shaped or C-shaped box wrench to allow for easier carb R&R once the manifold is installed, but in your case the carb can be left on and swapped over with the manifold out of the engine. Don't overtighten oil cooler or intake manifold-to-head nuts.
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tide
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I have no smog and no oil cooler (engine appears to be pieced together from someone's shop) so at least I got that going for me.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tide wrote:
Well I have no smog and no oil cooler (engine appears to be pieced together from someone's shop) so at least I got that going for me.


Sure you have an oil cooler. Stock is inside the fan housing, on #3/#4 side.

Only reason for no oil cooler there would be because someone removed it and put on an aftermarket one somewhere.
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tide
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you see now my level of knowledge. Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tide wrote:
Do you see now my level of knowledge. Laughing
Buy a manual. You'll need it sooner or later anyway. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Join up with a local club. Take a look at an engine that is removed and see what all it needs or has. Take your time and be safe.
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tide
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One question on the replacement manifold, it has a vacuum line on the left side, where are the hobbled junk that is there now does not. I've done all the digging I could do visually, by not clear if I ordered wrong manifold or not. Question is where does that vacuum line go if it "should" be there?
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tide
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The number on my block is unreadable. Local mechanic thinks its a 69 1600, but no way to tell without pulling everything and this is the wife little toy. For now I just want it 'running good enough' for something that will likely only see 1-2k miles a year, then this winter we'll start planning a custom engine.
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awreed
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Universal manifold. That vacuum line port on left probably goes to a stock vacuum advance distributor. If you don't need it (probable) push on a short length of fuel line and turn in a screw to the end of that to block it off. Or you could weld the thing shut. Either way, make sure it's plugged good or you'll have some odd running issues with the motor.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After careful deduction and manual reading, to goes to the air cleaner. However my air cleaner is missing the thermostat and cold air hose, so it's not worth hooking up at this time. I'll cap it off with hose and a screw until such time as I find another air cleaner with all the parts.
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Howard 111
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can find various sized rubber caps in a package, at most auto parts stores for almost nothing. We have Auto Zone, and Advance auto in this area.
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tide
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good tip, picked up a misc pack at Amazon for $11.
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Quokka42
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, a screw tends to leak - but golf tees work really well, and you can find them laying around!
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howard 111 wrote:
You can find various sized rubber caps in a package, at most auto parts stores for almost nothing.


I've had those vacuum caps only last 1/2 year in my truck in Arizona, the heat kills them....I'd get some real-good quality ones instead. On my truck ('88 B2200) there are about 10 unused vacuum ports, and I use short pieces of vacuum tubing and wooden golf tees (even broken ones) which last years longer. Funny - the original Mazda vacuum caps on that truck are still fine. So quality counts.
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