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lugo2214 Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2014 Posts: 134 Location: Pinckard, AL
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 6:27 am Post subject: Engine removal modification |
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Hello all bay drivers
For the title you can probably guess that I've had to remove the engine.
I'm sure I'm not the first with this thought so pls no screamers.......
I've seen the t1 bus engine removal and it was a lot less complicated than a t4.
I've looked for a thread that would detail the way to modify the bus to facilitate the removal in the same manner AND KEEP THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY AND LOOKS of the original design.
My thought was to rear frame beam and add heavy end plates to the cut beam to bolt back in thru the chassis .
The trusty search feature did not produce a thread for me, so if there is one out there, can someone point it out pls
I plan to pass this bus to my children and would go thru the trouble for future ease of removal.
Thank you _________________ RoRo's Campeter
1973 Tin Top Campmobile
Type 4 ENG / 2.0 HYD LIFT
003 Auto Trans 😆/😣
Dual Empi 44
009 Ignition
Ice Auto Air A/C kit 50% installed |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:02 am Post subject: |
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just be aware that the late post 1973 rear box was welded together by VW to make the bus more crash worthy. The rear members lost strength when the panel was cut for an engine hatch from above, welding the box closed put the strength back. The idea of a straight back removal like on an early bay is appealing but the loss of integrity is not. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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secretsubmariner Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011 Posts: 3104 Location: Tulsa, OK
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:01 am Post subject: |
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SGKent wrote: |
just be aware that the late post 1973 rear box was welded together by VW to make the bus more crash worthy. The rear members lost strength when the panel was cut for an engine hatch from above, welding the box closed put the strength back. The idea of a straight back removal like on an early bay is appealing but the loss of integrity is not. |
x2 vw did it for a reason _________________ -Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50351
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:45 am Post subject: |
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I can easily have my Type 4 on the ground in less than an hour and back in in maybe an hour and a half if I have the need to hurry. What is there to gain from adding complexity to the system? |
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mikedjames Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2012 Posts: 2743 Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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All you need is ground clearance and a taller jack.
Like drive the rear wheels up on ramps and use a 4x4 jack.
It is not that difficult to get the T1 engine out of the late bay..
After all it is what Europeans with 1600 engines had to put up with anyway, without the overhead engine hatch.
And why create even more rust pockets on a bus you want to pass on ? |
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3793 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 12:59 pm Post subject: |
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Customizing the bus to make my children's life easier is not my concern. Let them make their own hacks if they want- I will not be there to see it happen. _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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flaquito1 Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2010 Posts: 53 Location: Hesperia, California
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 2:02 pm Post subject: Engine removal |
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What you folks are missing is that the engine going back in is a Vanagon 2.0 liter and has slightly different dimensions, but not extreme. However it has been powdercoated and dressed up so clearance and care is an issue. Not necessary to race or be in a hurry but want the next trip to be a success and the last for awhile. Later in life, the removable tail section would be great. I'm certainly not afraid of a challenge...This is pretty straightforward. Besides, no more jockying the Bus up and down to match the engine on a jack! BTW, I put the engine on a ATV lift...Better than a jack! Raising and lowering the jack stands is a pain! But whatever works for each of us! |
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lugo2214 Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2014 Posts: 134 Location: Pinckard, AL
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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Good dicussion thanks all for your input _________________ RoRo's Campeter
1973 Tin Top Campmobile
Type 4 ENG / 2.0 HYD LIFT
003 Auto Trans 😆/😣
Dual Empi 44
009 Ignition
Ice Auto Air A/C kit 50% installed |
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Back to top |
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obieoberstar Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 1127 Location: Tucson
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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Not a problem with the right jack. OTC Low Lift Transmission Jack has been my friend for a few removals.
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3793 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:46 am Post subject: |
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I always pull engine and transmission as a unit; no need to putz with aligning splines in tight quarters, and allows for a close inspection of the under carridge while doing it. _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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ChrisFred Samba Member
Joined: June 11, 2014 Posts: 322 Location: Boulder, CO
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Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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I've always seen separate removal of engine and transmission but your way in this case is much more convenient |
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