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Weezle
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Joined: February 07, 2014
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Location: ORLANDO
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51124
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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 Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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Anti sieze is fine and won't cause issues if torqued correctly, just don't drown them, a thin smear is all that's needed.
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Weezle
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Joined: February 07, 2014
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Location: ORLANDO
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| Anti sieze is fine and won't cause issues if torqued correctly, just don't drown them, a thin smear is all that's needed. |
X2.....brush it on, wipe it off. Thin, thin...just enough to color it. Use good anti-sieze. If you are working with steel bolts stay with the mixed anti-sieze like Henkel/felpro C5-A. The aluminum Permatex is primarily made for aluminum....its a bit more slippery.
There are well over 50 brands out there. Stay with top names.
Anti-sieze is not a lubricant per-se. If its made correctly its a collection of metal, silica etc whose sole purpose is to prevent galling. There should be only enough actual oil in it to make a paste for application. Its the metal flakes you want. Ray |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:55 am Post subject: |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
| busdaddy wrote: |
| Anti sieze is fine and won't cause issues if torqued correctly, just don't drown them, a thin smear is all that's needed. |
X2.....brush it on, wipe it off. Thin, thin...just enough to color it. Use good anti-sieze. If you are working with steel bolts stay with the mixed anti-sieze like Henkel/felpro C5-A. The aluminum Permatex is primarily made for aluminum....its a bit more slippery.
There are well over 50 brands out there. Stay with top names.
Anti-sieze is not a lubricant per-se. If its made correctly its a collection of metal, silica etc whose sole purpose is to prevent galling. There should be only enough actual oil in it to make a paste for application. Its the metal flakes you want. Ray |
Ray thanks for reply. I have a print out of all your FI tune up stuff such as for decel valve et. al. Anyway here is the stuff I have:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lu...atex+80078
it has aluminum, copper and graphite
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:01 am Post subject: |
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There is nothing wrong with that...buts its main ingredient is aluminum. Use it very sparingly. Wipe the brush in the lid off so it just dusts/colors the bolt surface. That is one of the more slippery anti-seize compounds. Its got a lot of juice or oil in it but it works just fine.
Ray |
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Weezle
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Joined: February 07, 2014
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Location: ORLANDO
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EverettB 
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Joined: April 11, 2000
Posts: 69807
Location: Phoenix Metro
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| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 8:57 am Post subject: |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
There is nothing wrong with that...buts its main ingredient is aluminum. Use it very sparingly. Wipe the brush in the lid off so it just dusts/colors the bolt surface. That is one of the more slippery anti-seize compounds. Its got a lot of juice or oil in it but it works just fine.
Ray |
I use that and I usually lightly coat the bolt in it then sort of dab it off with a towel to remove the excess. It leaves the material in the threads but it doesn't sploosh everywhere on install.
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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| EverettB wrote: |
| raygreenwood wrote: |
There is nothing wrong with that...buts its main ingredient is aluminum. Use it very sparingly. Wipe the brush in the lid off so it just dusts/colors the bolt surface. That is one of the more slippery anti-seize compounds. Its got a lot of juice or oil in it but it works just fine.
Ray |
I use that and I usually lightly coat the bolt in it then sort of dab it off with a towel to remove the excess. It leaves the material in the threads but it doesn't sploosh everywhere on install. |
X2
Ray |
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Bruce
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Joined: May 16, 2003
Posts: 17285
Location: Left coast, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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I apply a little bit to one screw, then use the next screw to spread it around. That way only half is left on the first one.
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Randall
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Joined: October 03, 2004
Posts: 1403
Location: Orange County, Alta California, El Norte
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| Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 7:09 pm Post subject: Re: Anti-seize on suspension bolts |
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| Weezle wrote: |
| Is it Ill advised to use anti-seize on suspension bolts, tranny and engine mount bolts? These things can be murder to remove. |
I found out the hard way what happens when a shock absorber bolt gets rusted inside a shock tower in one of the front wheel wells. In my case, the M12 bolt broke off right where it entered the tower. I had to drill the bolt out and buy a thread insert kit. In an environment where water is thrown around by the tire, anti-seize or a lubricant like silicone spray would have prevented that from happening. |
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 10:34 pm Post subject: Re: Anti-seize on suspension bolts |
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| Randall wrote: |
| Weezle wrote: |
| Is it Ill advised to use anti-seize on suspension bolts, tranny and engine mount bolts? These things can be murder to remove. |
I found out the hard way what happens when a shock absorber bolt gets rusted inside a shock tower in one of the front wheel wells. In my case, the M12 bolt broke off right where it entered the tower. I had to drill the bolt out and buy a thread insert kit. In an environment where water is thrown around by the tire, anti-seize or a lubricant like silicone spray would have prevented that from happening. |
Over long term.....silicone spray will not help at all. It washes off and/or dries out.. The reasom anti-seize works has nothing to do with the small amount of lught oil used to turn it into a paste.
That oul goes away quickly as well. It is the soft metal flakes and silica that are the filler (actually the main ingredient). They prevent perfect/total metal to metal contact and t b e metal flakes themselves oxidize over time. This metal flake layer prevents galling on initial torque and the metal oxide over the long haul prevents rust and galvanic action from welding the two fasteners together. Ray |
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Randall
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Joined: October 03, 2004
Posts: 1403
Location: Orange County, Alta California, El Norte
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| Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 11:10 pm Post subject: |
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This calls for a celebration, Ray. You made your 6000th post. 
I've got you beat when it comes to uploading photos; I have 12 more than you do.  |
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Randall wrote: |
This calls for a celebration, Ray. You made your 6000th post.
I've got you beat when it comes to uploading photos; I have 12 more than you do. |
Cool! So now I have a reason for drinking last night!
Yes....I upload few photos....but that may, change
Ray |
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theKbStockpiler
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Joined: July 07, 2012
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Location: Rust Belt
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| Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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Antiseize eventually evaporates away. It works really well in a non highly exposed environments like a spark plug or lug nut that is serviced every couple of years. On suspension fasters it would only work good on a non daily driver. If the fastener is gong to be on for a long time; over five years, and it is practical ,blue loctite is better. Automakers use a sealer like product that they 'paint' the threads down the length on one side of the bolt that works like loctite. I see the same thing done on pipe fittings. The loctite is not used to 'lock' the fastener but it does not evaporate in 5 years and stays between the threads. Something like pan bolts ,use blue loctite.
I'm also using castle 'torque master' 
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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| theKbStockpiler wrote: |
Antiseize eventually evaporates away. It works really well in a non highly exposed environments like a spark plug or lug nut that is serviced every couple of years. On suspension fasters it would only work good on a non daily driver. If the fastener is gong to be on for a long time; over five years, and it is practical ,blue loctite is better. Automakers use a sealer like product that they 'paint' the threads down the length on one side of the bolt that works like loctite. I see the same thing done on pipe fittings. The loctite is not used to 'lock' the fastener but it does not evaporate in 5 years and stays between the threads. Something like pan bolts ,use blue loctite.
I'm also using castle 'torque master' |
Anti, sieze is supposed to evaporate. The oil in it has nothing to do with its anti-sieze properties. Its the soft metallic and silica components that are the anti-seize part.
The metal, components will oxidize with age and become powdery and black. As long as there is powdery residue you are still fine. Only when it becomes a tight thin black coating does it lose its anti-seize properties.
You have to remember that anti-seize is, not supposed to be a lubricant like and oil. Its not supposed to make things slippery. Its simply designed to prevent galling of similar alloys under torque. Ray |
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mark tucker
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Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:10 am Post subject: |
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| the only down side to antiseezzee is it is going to be everywhere,even if you just do a little on the wifes honda it will be all over your vw and hear clothes. so be fair warned, that stuff has a mind of it's own. |
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 7:04 am Post subject: |
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| mark tucker wrote: |
| the only down side to antiseezzee is it is going to be everywhere,even if you just do a little on the wifes honda it will be all over your vw and hear clothes. so be fair warned, that stuff has a mind of it's own. |
One of the first things I learned!
In high, school.....working on my first VW....my Dad taught me about using anti-seize.
But.....my Mom taught me about cleaning it up.....after I tracked it into the house.
Anti-seize is amazing stuff ......causes bolts and fasteners not to seize....and causes screaming in women!
Ray |
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EverettB
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Joined: April 11, 2000
Posts: 69807
Location: Phoenix Metro
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| Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 10:25 am Post subject: |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
One of the first things I learned!
In high, school.....working on my first VW....my Dad taught me about using anti-seize.
But.....my Mom taught me about cleaning it up.....after I tracked it into the house. |
Damn, that stuff is nasty to clean off hands, I'd hate to be scrubbing it out of carpet.
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 11:09 am Post subject: |
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| EverettB wrote: |
| raygreenwood wrote: |
One of the first things I learned!
In high, school.....working on my first VW....my Dad taught me about using anti-seize.
But.....my Mom taught me about cleaning it up.....after I tracked it into the house. |
Damn, that stuff is nasty to clean off hands, I'd hate to be scrubbing it out of carpet. |
I was lucky. It was brand new carpet.....and it was just at the top fringe off the side of my shoe.
Dad taught me another one.....he shaved a very thin layer off the top with a razor blade along with the anti-sieze.
Ray |
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