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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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 Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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 .....if the wheel bearings are loose.....and this is assuming the races were pressed all the way in (not to be confused with racial repression)......and thd bearings themselves Re not damaged or heavily worn.....and they are getting loose.....as measured with a dial indicator.....
then the only thing left is the spindle nut coming loose. Torque the allen screw tighter.
If for some odd reason the nut cant get any tighter because the two halves of the split in the nut are touching (because some ham fisted PO used a hammer on them)....then file the slot to give you more room to tighten.
If all of this.....and the nut still rotates....check to see that you dont have massive amounts of tacky grease packed in the threads and clean it out. Ray |
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mark tucker
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 10:26 am Post subject: |
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| your sort of on to something but havent nailed it. |
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vdubyah73
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2003
Posts: 2541
Location: somewhere in Texas, my house has wheels
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| Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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Something I learned from marine mechanics. Use Permatex aviation form a gasket on fasteners in corrosive environment. Works as both a mild threadlocker and corrosion preventative. Don't use so much that it causes a blockage in a blind hole that you can't get it truly tight, but use enough to coat the threads.
Bill
_________________
burning down the house
73 bounty hunter, sold.
'77 transporter, junked had crotch rot.
Dubless, but have a CPR built stroker waiting for a new to me Beetle
'93 Fleetwood Bounder 34' |
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mark tucker
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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| THOSE MARING MECHANICS DIDNT KNOW SQUART!!! they should of been using the propper perfect seal sealing compound as it is salt watter soluable when not cured and works better than that av stuff.... |
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mark tucker
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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| ok back to the wheel bearings answer....dont use the $3.00 china auto zone wheel bearings. thats it nothing more. if your bearings are good dont change them.mine was rusted cap was gone when I got the car. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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| mark tucker wrote: |
| ok back to the wheel bearings answer....dont use the $3.00 china auto zone wheel bearings. thats it nothing more. if your bearings are good dont change them.mine was rusted cap was gone when I got the car. |
Oh for sure. I found that out the hard way a long time ago . When Pep boys went from carrying name brand bearings in the 90s to all BOC (sounds nifty....butcit bearkng company of China  )...... I was in a hurry and installed a set. They died on the road 200 miles from home about 3 weeks later. The cages just came apart.....so I slapped in another set just to see if it was a fluke. They died from the same causes about 2 weeks later.
From looking at them....the cages were a powdered metal. The machine work and rollers were fine.....but older systems like ours have more play built into the system. What we put in for free play/preload compared to a modern car is large...plus adding in thd extra heat we get from non ventilated rotors.....our cars are harder on the bearings. What might have been a minor flaw in these bearing for a newer car will not live in ours. Ray |
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modok
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26785
Location: Colorado Springs
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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Powdered metal?? That does sounds like a good idea.
I change hundreds of wheel bearings, all kinds, have not seen any plastic cages, not old or new. They are all steel or plastic. Maybe the VW market is the test monkey for this??  |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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| modok wrote: |
Powdered metal?? That does sounds like a good idea.
I change hundreds of wheel bearings, all kinds, have not seen any plastic cages, not old or new. They are all steel or plastic. Maybe the VW market is the test monkey for this?? |
Yeah....they were powdered "sintered" metal......which in itself is not bad. Many bearings have used this....and lots of other industrial parts.
But....it means the engineering, metalurgy and above all....workmanship ....must be top notch.....and these were not.
Its also unfair of me fo say that BOC....means bearings of China. They actially have a Japan main office and plants and a UK office. But these were made in China and it was stamped kn them.
Ray |
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vdubyah73
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2003
Posts: 2541
Location: somewhere in Texas, my house has wheels
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| Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:56 am Post subject: |
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| mark tucker wrote: |
| THOSE MARING MECHANICS DIDNT KNOW SQUART!!! they should of been using the propper perfect seal sealing compound as it is salt watter soluable when not cured and works better than that av stuff.... |
Really? So what you're saying is that if you use perfect seal or OMC sealing compound and then splash your boat it'll wash off? The three are virtually the same stuff and do the same thing, and it is quite common to substitute any one for the other. They are even recommended for thread sealant to protect from corrosion.
Bill
_________________
burning down the house
73 bounty hunter, sold.
'77 transporter, junked had crotch rot.
Dubless, but have a CPR built stroker waiting for a new to me Beetle
'93 Fleetwood Bounder 34' |
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Weezle
Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2014
Posts: 685
Location: ORLANDO
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| Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Well after starting this thread.....I forgot to put the anti seize on the trailing arm 17mm bolts  hehehe. Yeh, those ones that broke my tools. I'm 53 now. If I'm lucky I'm dead before they have to come loose again. Maybe I'll re-do them with the anti seize. I think I will put anti-seize on everything that gave me a problem:
All the bolts I broke in dis-assembly were: the bumper shock mounting bolts - They were kind of a rusty mess; I broke one of the torsion bar spring plate cover bolts too; I didn't break any pan or fender bolts  but one of the pan captured nuts in the heater channel spun loose; All four of the running board end bolts broke and one of the side bolts for the running board broke. I had to drill out a door hinge bolt but I think because I used a number 3 phillips on it. With a number 4 phillips and an impact screw driver the rest weren't too bad.
Taking this bug apart I used Kroil and PB Blaster. I can't tell which works better (can't stand the smell of Kroil which stays with you all day if it gets on you). But they are both better than WD-40 for rusty hardware removal. After buying both those penetrants I read a study somewhere that ATF/acetone worked the best of all these for reducing the amount of torque needed to remove stuff.
thanks to everyone who provided all the great info in this thread. I love Samba.
_________________
I got a fever, and the only prescription is more beetles!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight= |
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mark tucker
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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| vdubyah73 wrote: |
| mark tucker wrote: |
| THOSE MARING MECHANICS DIDNT KNOW SQUART!!! they should of been using the propper perfect seal sealing compound as it is salt watter soluable when not cured and works better than that av stuff.... |
Really? So what you're saying is that if you use perfect seal or OMC sealing compound and then splash your boat it'll wash off? The three are virtually the same stuff and do the same thing, and it is quite common to substitute any one for the other. They are even recommended for thread sealant to protect from corrosion.
Bill |
no there not the same at all. it may be quite common for somebody too cheep to get the right stuff to subsutute it with the other. I have driped it in salt water and wached it disperse. I used to know the mcm part# but it seems to elude me now.just because stuff looks the same dosent mean it is.and dosent mean it should be substituted for each other.and dosent mean it cant be either.
and for the weeezell BG products has some stuff that is better then pb blaster,I cant recall the name of it, but it's good stuff. |
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theKbStockpiler
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012
Posts: 2316
Location: Rust Belt
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| Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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The ONLY thing better about PB Blaser is it's Flash Point is higher which is nice when used in conjunction with a torch. I did a comparison of WD-40 ,silicone and PB Blaster and silicone might have been slightly better but they were all pretty much eqaul. AutoZone's brand used to be the best but they don't carry it anymore.
_________________
My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask. |
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