Replacing Floors: Fitment Issue

ernieballbass · Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 2:10 pm Post subject: Replacing Floors: Fitment Issue

hey guys. i could use some wisdom on how to move forward with my floor replacement Smile

so i removed the passenger side pan after taking all my measurements. i trimmed down the new floor and all the measurements are spot on! holes are 24inches from the tunnel. i started drilling holes in the floor to plug weld it to the tunnel, but i couldn't get the floor to fit snugly on the lip.

it looks like the floor ribs are keeping the floors from sitting flush Shocked

Is this normal? it seems that i have two options: 1) flatten out the ribs or 2) trim down the tunnel lip...

here are the pics: 1st pic shows the problem

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

any guidance would be appreciated.
_________________
What I lack in brains, I make up for with good intentions.

Ron Domeck · Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 4:59 pm Post subject:

The right side is the one you need to move the ribs over about 1/4 in. When you get to the left side they will be Ok. Also don't rely on the indent for the bolt holes the mount to the outer body. I take the outer hole area from the opposite side, flip it over and lay it on the new pan for a pattern.

ernieballbass · Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 5:19 pm Post subject:

Ron Domeck · Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 6:42 pm Post subject:

Don't need to cut, reshape the ends with a hammer and dollie.

ernieballbass · Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 2:13 pm Post subject:

Sorry guys, but I got a new problem:

I drilled 1/4 inch holes around the pan and plug welded all the way around. It was all fine and dandy until I got done...and the floor popped off...welds just wouldn't hand.

My Hobart handler 140 was set at 3/30. Welds willfully in holes but won't actually weld to the lip. I'm getting a little frustrated to say the least. What on earth am I doing wrong?
_________________
What I lack in brains, I make up for with good intentions.

ernieballbass · Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 2:37 pm Post subject:

Deft to mention .030 solid wire. Argon 75/25 mix.
_________________
What I lack in brains, I make up for with good intentions.

Ron Domeck · Posted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 3:32 pm Post subject:

I use .025 wire. Lip on the tunnel must be shinny metal and your first pic. looks like the pan was not down and you have a space. I start in the center of the 1/4 in hole with weld and work around to the outside, not just filling the hole. I also hammer the ribs before I weld so the pan fits flush on the tunnel lip.

3Duckdaddy · Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:48 am Post subject:

I am starting to tear down to replace pans myself. Where did you get your pans, and are you happy with the quality?
Plug or "Rosette" welding definitely has a technique. My dad does custom fab work. He had a run of fixtures that required a lot of plug welds. Start with plenty of heat in the center and work out. After you get it write down the settings so next time it will be easy work.

Thanks,
George

ernieballbass · Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 5:26 pm Post subject:

3Duckdaddy · Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:56 pm Post subject:

Ernieballbass,
Thanks for the reply and the pictures. I think the stitch welding looks fine. A little seam sealer and your good to go. I went ahead and got pans form cip1 and airhead parts. Getting the garage ready to start tear down soon. Keep up the progress pics.

Happy Holidays

George

mr white · Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 7:10 pm Post subject:

Where did these pans come from? The Thing shop ones are supposed to be ready for install with no issues. Just curious. Looking good! I ran into this issue on mine,stupid me bought another one! I bought my pans from house of ghia.

ernieballbass · Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 9:14 am Post subject:

I got it from a local vw parts guy. Unless you live in orlando, you wouldn't be able to get them from him (shipping would kill you if you live in Oregon).

The thing shop has all the accessories built in and is already trimmed to fit. I didn't bother with those because:

1. I'm not putting in stock seats and I don't need the stock thing tracks
2. I don't need the seat belt hardware because mine will be mounting to roll cage.
3. I hate how the jack Receivers look (and I have never used them)
4. All the other hardware was saved from the old pans
5. I'm on a budget lol

If I were doing a full OEM restore and had some extra coin, I would buy those thing shop floors. It would save so much time!

As with everything, it really depends on what you want/need for your project and your "Intestinal fortitude" to accomplish your goals lol. It's okay to make mistakes as long as you have the drive to correct them.
_________________
What I lack in brains, I make up for with good intentions.

mr white · Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 10:44 am Post subject:

What I really wanted to know was if these were the thing shop basic floors.
The halves for $250 are supposed to fit beautifully. I have not heard yay or nay on this. Hoping someone who actually bought those chimes in. Your project is coming along nicely. I just picked up a yellow 74 that will need floors as well.

citroen · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 1:49 pm Post subject:

Here are a few pictures od how the Domeck Brothers ( Ron and me ) install the pans on a thing you will have to go to our website to see the rest of the story we have 70 photos on the complete installation to many to download here go to the photo gallery installing the thing pans http://kubeltreffen181.com

ernieballbass · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 4:17 pm Post subject:

Wow, I love that rotisserie! Well, maybe I'll get one next Christmas lol.
_________________
What I lack in brains, I make up for with good intentions.

Ron Domeck · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 4:39 pm Post subject:

We made the rotisserie with 2 Harbor Freight engine stands. Some cutting, adding and making some parts. We also have heads to put the body on with a full 360 degree rotate.


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

	Forum Index -> Thing/Type 181	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page 1 of 1