Back in the land of air cooled after 15 years

Mike Fisher · Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:54 pm Post subject:

Pull the seats,carpets,door panels & all 4 fenders. You'll be able to see any problem areas & plan your attack on them. Great to have a 4 sons crew! Cool

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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

MikeinColorado · Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:30 pm Post subject:

The whole body is coming off...this will be a long project. I have 7 years til the oldest can drive.

The kick panel on the back seat is toast....
The firewall is toast....rockers...toast... heater channels toast...battery tray toast...
Looks like an accident in the front passenger side with a really poor patch job in the inner fender when you open the hood...
I will take pics of the carnage tomorrow.

LouPeck · Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:15 pm Post subject:

Great project and awesome that your sons will have a chance to work on such a cool car!

I have a 67 square w 2110, 110 cam, 8:1 compression and run 40 IDFs. I am ordering 32 venturis to replace the 28s I currently have that come stock in 40s. John at aircooled suggested them as a solid combo w my engine specs.

The CB Performance short manifolds in the their T3 kit will fit under the decklid without any mod, but you will need to use either 1.5" or 1 1/8" filters depending on how much clearance you end up having. A trick is if you use the CB kit and have a tight fit on one of the carb tops, shave off the ridges and it may slide under the deck (that's what I did). Not sure if it got answered already, but the distributor options you have are similar to a T1, except the distributor body needs to be the same size as the 009. This is the one I use:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PER%2DD186604

A distributor like this will not fit in the space (from what I've read)
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PER%2DD180813
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1970 Baywindow weekender
1967 sunroof Squareback

MikeinColorado · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 7:51 am Post subject:

I will probably go with a 2110....
Granted I may have a really good deal on a type 4

LouPeck · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 9:18 am Post subject:

Yeah a T4 is a great option especially if you have a line on a good deal. Is it a used engine or is the deal for a fresh rebuild? What displacement?

One big PIA w the T1 running dual carbs on my square is getting to spark plugs. Cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are just about impossible to reach without pulling intakes off :/

I was drooling over the T4 engine pics w spark plugs right there on top. sooo much easier.
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1970 Baywindow weekender
1967 sunroof Squareback

W1K1 · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 9:57 am Post subject:

MikeinColorado · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 12:18 pm Post subject:

It's a brand new t4 that my buddy's dad bought for an experimental aircraft and decided to go in a different direction..Ok more pic coming...

MikeinColorado · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:49 pm Post subject:

Nasty weld

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

fuel tank out

kick panel toast

fire wall...

interesting...is this stock?

fuel tank out

LouPeck · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:56 pm Post subject:

Yikes on the holes in the firewall that looks like a fun fix.

On the 5th pic down, that's not stock. Its an electric fuel pump, Facet brand. I think they are good pumps, but my suggestion would be to run a stock mechanical pump. I run one on my rig and its perfect. Also, lose that fuel filter...bad location. All you need is one fuel filter and I put mine right behind the engine compartment where fuel line goes thru. That helps prevent potential fire hazard inside the compartment, and you can reach it behind the drivers side rear wheel when time to replace.
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1970 Baywindow weekender
1967 sunroof Squareback

MikeinColorado · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 2:12 pm Post subject:

Good point on the fuel filter... I used to keep mine in the engine compartment in the old bugs... I will move it to the suggested location.
Under the fuel tank is ludicrous.

Progress is slow going but my boys have pretty much done all the work themselves.. 99% Dad just moves the heavy parts and breaks things loose so the kids can finish the job. I have been letting them work at their own pace.

LouPeck · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 2:17 pm Post subject:

My square had the exact same setup when I bought it, but I think it was a carter fuel pump not Facet. The PO also put a fuel filter in the same spot. And then 2 more filters along the fuel line with one of them inside the engine compartment :/
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1970 Baywindow weekender
1967 sunroof Squareback

MikeinColorado · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 2:36 pm Post subject:

I have 7 years til my oldest can drive this car... I intend to do it all right.
Zinc plates the bolts etc....Should be an interesting build.

MikeinColorado · Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:24 pm Post subject:

Fuel tank will be sent off for media blasting. I ordered a restoration kit for it from por-15. going to clean it out and seal it. Then paint or powder coat it gloss black. It is a good place to start while we strip the rest of the car and prepare to send the pan off for media blasting.

Any advice on storing the fuel tank? It will be cleaned and sealed and painted. My stock ECU on the Audi is in a ziploc bag with a bag of desiccant in there for good measure. Should I throw some in the tank? Colorado is pretty dry but I hate to redo work.

blues90 · Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 6:41 pm Post subject:

How do these cars end up with so much rust? I know when I lived in IL I had rust on every car I owned . I had a 66 beetle that the running boards came right off and a 68 Ghia that had a rusted out floor pan . I just fixed them the best I could . Not bondo but I cut out sheet metal for the Ghia and sealed the pop riveted them in place just so I could keep the cold and water out.

Now days I couldn't deal with it at all. I have to hand those of you credit for going through all the work you do.

I was lucky my 73 SB is from Calif and I'm here so mine didn't have rust . It was straight too . well it was until after 30 years then some idiot ran a red light and screwed up the ft bumper and some of the front sheet metal and then this month the left rear fender. For me at this point this is bad enough to deal with.

MikeinColorado · Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:06 pm Post subject:

I am a Chicago native and when I got my first bug back in 1996 I went out to Colorado and drove it home.. Now I just live in Colorado. This 73 came from Maryland originally....or so I am told. Fortunately I have a competent friend that can help with the nasty stuff.

Clatter · Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:33 pm Post subject:

FWIW, IMHO, the proper way to get a fuel tank clean is to have it boiled out at a radiator shop.
Then you will be able to see if it has any pin holes and needs work.
Blasting is likely to introduce grit to haunt you forever.
A good radiator shop does fuel tanks as a regular part of their work.
They can fix pin-holes, put in a bigger pick-up and bigger vent, coat the inside, pressure-test, etc.

Once done, then it can get body worked and painted.
Yes, $$$.

By the time the gas tank in my Oval was beautiful/perfect it was $1k.

I'll spend ALL your money!

Beware that a big, hot motor might need more fuel than the stock pickup can deliver.
And it will do so only at the absolute worst time.
Cheaper than a motor...
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What’s That Noise?!?

Bobnotch · Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 8:27 pm Post subject:

Brent · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:35 am Post subject:

Mike Fisher · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 8:40 am Post subject:

MikeinColorado · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 10:03 am Post subject:

Looks like I will be boiling the tank.
I got a guy who did the radiator on my 53 Buick and he does nice work at a good price. I will see what he charges.


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