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Best block (case) degreaser?
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dtpolk
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:52 pm    Post subject: Best block (case) degreaser? Reply with quote

The title says it. I want something STRONG! People have mentioned to forget engine degreasers and use oven cleaner. True? Of course, I want something that won't hurt he aluminum/magnesium. Not near a shop or I'd tank it.

What are people using here?
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modok
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2014 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There isn't ONE.

Solvent for oil/grease
detergent to remove solvent
Soda blast to remove oxide

In theory, caustic soda simply removes....everything, but it removes the metal also. If the gunk is stronger than the case itself the thinking man may conclude it is better to leave it in place Very Happy
I've seen freshly machined surfaced corroded in a day simply leaving the case within 10 feet of the caustic tank, much less actually putting it in there. Strong sodium hydroxide solution in a heated tank will eat aluminum about an eighth inch per hour. never tried mag, but it would be worse
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vince1
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot pressure car wash, then dishwasher for me, very clean after that.
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use a scraper(s) that won't scratch the surfaces. Get the heavy stuff off first. A degreaser will remove a lot, but don't expect it to do a good job without elbow grease. Use a spray degreaser, along with scrubbing and rinsing. Then scrub the case with Dawn dish washing detergent mixed in a bucket of water and scrub brush, tooth brush, ect. After that, compressed air to blow all of the water out and dry the case.
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MacLeod Willy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 6:47 am    Post subject: Degreaser Reply with quote

I went through the whole degrease alley at the store and found the GUNK Gel worked just about the best. Its thick and stays on longer.
If its really bad, you may want to invest in enough carb cleaner to immerse it totally.

You can read my nightmare of cleaning my T4
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7192937&highlight=#7192937
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TinCanFab
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing compares to real solvent for parts washers, but environmental laws can make it hard to get. It's worth looking for.
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56vwoval
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 9:21 am    Post subject: degreaser Reply with quote

I use oven cleaner, then off to the car wash. Oh by the way, elbow grease works best!!
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wax and grease remover for autobody prep will liquify grease and oil. Cheap oven cleaner from Dollar General works good for the heavier stuff. Don't get the odor-free version.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried out gunk engine degreaser on the current engine im doing. I was impressed. It was on sale and I bought 4 cans. Turns out one was enough. Shot down with water, simple greened, repeat rinse and then dry. Had to acrape the heavy soot, but that comes with the territory.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GUNK Floamy Engine Degreaser, pressure wash, then Simple Green and pressure wash (U-Squirt car wash + rain gear) ...

Dale
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dtpolk
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I certainly expected the elbow grease. I've cleaned many engines in the past, using most of the auto parts house cleaners without much success. I was just wondering if anything new and better had come out.

Anothe4 guy told me to try Mineral Spirits (as found in paint stores). I've never tried that. Has anyone here? Thanks!


Last edited by dtpolk on Wed Oct 08, 2014 1:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No matter what u use that works for u, I forgot to mention. Always use a coating like wd 40 or wipe down light oil on the case surface and follow up with wiping it with a rag. It will prevent the case from starting to oxidize, at least for a little. Thats what I finish up with.
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Dauz
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use CRC Brakeleen to clean just about everything.
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Kiptere
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

About 5 cans of oven cleaner. Keep it up until the rinse runs clean.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dtpolk wrote:
Well, I certainly expected the elbow grease. I've cleaned many engines in the past, using most of the auto parts house cleaners without much success. I was just wondering if anything new and better had come out.

Anothe4 guy told me to try Mineral Spirits (as found in paint stores). I've never tried that. Has anyone here? Thanks!


Mineral spirits is basically paint thinner... Its used in a lot of parts washers.... If you use mineral spirits use rubber/nitridl gloves as MS in very drying on hands and will cause serious skin damage from dryness....

Dale
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modok
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mineral spirits and cleaning solvent are very similar.
Not sure if there is a difference, other than maybe safety.
"Safety solvent" is required to have a high flash point to prevent fire. The hillbilly way is to use gasoline or kerosene um, in a "well ventilated area", or better yet, in another country far away.

For awhile I became sensitized to solvent so I used wd-40 instead. twice the price but no fumes at all.
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66brm
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Typically I run diesel in a parts washer and a fewbrushes and scrapers to get the annoying bits of crud off after blasting with a pressure cleaner. The diesel leaves a protective film on the mag to prevent corrosion till its time for final assembly when it gets done with solvent
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Zundfolge1432 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oven cleaner and a high pressure hose like those found at a coin operated car wash. Done correctly and observing all safety precautions it is thorough, economical and safe . I have used this method for more than 30 years .
For very dirty engines I would first use a parts washer and safety clean or crystal clean fluid both are proprietary fluids and next step down would be mineral spirits. In the absence of a parts washer you can use a large wash tub or a reinforced cardboard box lined with several trash bags, it works well for soaking parts too.

Back to the engine cleaner use safety glasses, gloves and wear old clothes .
Apply the cleaner and let soak no longer than 10 minutes. The oven cleaner is also strong enough to remove paint so be advised. The environmentally correct way to clean cases is to find a machine shop that uses a self contained hot water wash tank using high pressure,soap,and a turn table to rotate the part while its being cleaned. If your conscience bothers you and or EPA regs prevent you from doing it yourself this is it. Good luck.
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Busdriver79
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to Home Depot or similar store and get a gallon of ANY purple colored degreaser...the purple is the strongest by far...do not dilute it...go full strength here....I put pistons straight from the engine into a bucket of this stuff...24 hrs. later, I rinsed with a high pressure garden hose...they looked like brand new castings....I put all the greasy, oily nuts, bolts, and washers along with the pushrods and rocker arms into this stuff...soaked for 24 hrs. and everything was like new...it costs about $12 per gallon....money well spent.
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Zundfolge1432 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oven cleaner is about three dollars per can you will need two
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