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darisb
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Joined: March 25, 2012
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Location: Coos Bay, OR
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:44 am    Post subject: Kit car body prep questions Reply with quote

I am building a 550 Spyder kit. Some of the body surfaces have a micro-egg crate texture. That's the best way I can describe it. I would like to smooth out these surfaces, before the body goes to the painter. One guy on a 550 forum suggested mixing microballons with gel coat.

Few of the surfaces on the body are flat. They are either convexed or concaved. I'm thinking a sanding block with not work too well on the concaved surfaces.

The surfaces that I need to resurface are:

Front inner fender wells - vertical/concaved
Front firewall - vertical and overhead/relatively flat
Rear firewall - vertical/flat
Underside rear bonnet - removable/mildly concaved.

I have very little body work and/or fiberglass experience, so i need specific advice on products, tools and processes. I have a 60 gallon compressor, HF HVLP spray guns, sears spray gun with a big tip.
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darisb
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Joined: March 25, 2012
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Location: Coos Bay, OR
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been doing some additional reading. I think I'm going to get a flexible sanding block, and hit the areas with 80 grit. I'll spray the areas with a couple coats of Evercoat Feather Fill G2.
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jspbtown
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Joined: January 27, 2004
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good choice.

Some helpful hints:
- If you don't have a 2.0 tip then its OK to reduce the G2 with up to 10% acetone to help the sprayability.
- I personally like the buff color...I don't know why but it seems easier to apply than the gray.
- Get some guidecoat. The G2 can sometimes come out a little textured. The guidecoat will help a lot in your sanding.
- You want to finish with 400 grit for solids or 600 grit for metallic.
- You don't reduce the G2 so you will probably need 2 gallons to have enough to spray, sand, re-spray and sand again.
- G2 is porous so you don't want to leave it unpainted long.
- some suggest sealer after the G2 but its not needed. It won't hurt, but is not required.
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eyetzr Premium Member
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Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try to wash all the areas really well with wax & grease remover before you start sanding. The mold release agents that are used are tough to put product over.
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I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done"
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Mike Fisher
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Joined: January 30, 2006
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Location: Eugene, OR
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

320 grit & flexible sanding block
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