My 59 mini project, let me show you it

[Mayor Marion Berry]

Drove it around the block so it's finally and technically road worthy!!!

Heres a small imgur album, for some reason I could only upload 7 photos.

Previous car was a 94 miata R package, however this lady decided she wanted to be in my lane more than I did so her insurance company bought me this jade green (I think) 59 bug with a brand new chassis.
Ever since watching the love bug as a kid, I've always wanted an old bug. Now I finally have one!!

I picked it up from NC and trailered it back to its apparent home of VA due to the old AAA sticker on the rear bumper. Before driving down to purchase, I purposefully didn't show the GF andy pics of the interior including the dangling headliner since I knew she wouldnt approve. Didnt matter anyway because she noticed the birds nest in the glovebox before I got a chance to get rid of it once I got it home. That was a tough one to explain away.

As it was it needed to be "finished up". It can drive, kind of turn and sort of stop and thats about it.

The engine is a 1300 from either a 66 or 67. It's hard to read out the engine number. Either starts with a E or an F. Not at all 100% certain. J pipes, some kind of muffler and its LOUD. OMG is it loud. I was told it was a 6 volt system, but after poking around it's a 12 volt I dont know for sure.

Suspension consists of a 6 inch narrowed beam, drop spindles of some kind. 145/65 tires up front and 175/55 in the back.

I've started the process of changing out all the window and body seals. So far the rear quarter window is a huge pain in the ass and Im thinking of paying someone else to do the rear window and front windshield once I finish. I've been trying off and on for a bout a month now

I still have to wire up the speedo, fix the scary loose steering, get all the lights working and figure out why and fix the stiff front passenger side wheel. Oh and that whole "is it a 6 or 12 volt system??".

My goals are to leave it as stock as I can and it will be my daily driver. I am in love!

[grandpa pete]

. " that will buff out " .

Good luck with your new toy
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63 two fold rag
66 sedan delivery Type 6

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569619&highlight=sedan+delivery

[Kierdan]

Good luck with your project. I am pretty sure the engine came from a 66. Someone else on here will know better but almost 100% sure U.S.67's all came with a 1500. European 67 bugs came in both 1300 and 1500. And I think your engine code is an F. I had a 67 like 20 years ago and I think mine was an H.

Danny

[61SNRF]

The engine number starts with an F, that line that makes it look like an E is just a casting flaw or a deep scratch.

It may have started life as a 1300, but the intake manifold and carb are from a later model like '69 or '70.

Although they do make a big 6V Generator, yours is likely 12v given that it has that transistorized Voltage Regulator stuck on the fan housing. The GEN or VR should both be stamped somewhere with their ratings, have a close look. One thing is for sure, those wires to the VR are way too small, the B+ should be at least 12 gauge for 12V, or 10 gauge if it's still 6V.

Also, many things wrong with the cooling system, number one being the missing heater hoses, followed closely by missing plugs in the Fan Housing, poor fitting tin etc. These are some of the very first things to address before driving too much at all.
That, and get ready for the forum to shout "Get that fuel filter out of the engine compartment ASAP!"

That AAA sticker appears to be stuck to a late '67 rear bumper. Those over riders are worth more to a '67 owner who needs them, so consider looking for some early ones to swap with and sell those.

Funny thing is, sure looks low in the back for not having any negative camber, maybe the small tires are contributing to the drop?

Brand new chassis, or brand new floor pans? With a "new" chassis, you shouldn't have any scary loose steering, or dragging front wheel
These sorts of mechanical defects simply require getting in there and checking things one by one.

Finally, the rear quarter glass is one of the easiest to install, so if you're having trouble with them, check to make sure you have the correct seals, and that they are of the highest quality you can afford
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-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[grandpa pete]

" Get that fuel filter out of the engine compartment "

And then secure the brass fitting to the aluminum carb
ANOTHER FIRE HAZARD

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63 two fold rag
66 sedan delivery Type 6

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569619&highlight=sedan+delivery

[Mayor Marion Berry]

Thank you all!!! Don't know why I didn't check this thread sooner.



I'll get right on top of dealing with the engine compartment for wiring, relocating the fuel filter etc etc. It's not going anywhere anyways, since it's on jacks. I started the process of thinking about how to go about starting the front brake work. Right front wheel is beyond tight and I can't adjust one of the star spindles to adjust the brakes, seems to be stuck. Finally was able to hit the local pawn shop for essential tools so I can get started! Woot!!!


I didn't realize my bumper was from a later model, Think I will sell it for a stock one so goodbye mr cool AAA sticker!!!

[jack1448]

Looks like original L243 diamond grey paint, at least most of it. Very cool. You don't see that around very often anymore! Good luck with the build.

[61SNRF]

[Rathguten]

Welcome to the '59 club! Your car look great. Make sure to browse through the 58-59 sticky as there is plenty of great information there. 58-59 are my favorite years. Here is my latest '59 build.

[stale air]

Rathguten, good looking 59, nice Honda 70!
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WANTED: Henry Veale Santa Rosa plate frames
WANTED: Brittsan Motors Fresno plate frames
WANTED: Any Georgia plate frames

[raul arrese]

[Mayor Marion Berry]

Thanks all! I went ahead and took apart the brakes to investigate. I wanted to push out the pistons in the wheel cylinder just a little bit and see if they retracted like I thought they should (again, first car I've ever really worked on so I'm going by stupidity and brawn) and I thiiiiink I may have pumped a little TOOOO much.

http://i.imgur.com/2DCEWdB.jpg?1 KABLOOEY!!!!
http://i.imgur.com/dkfF4VB.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/Jh12JHT.jpg?1

I went ahead and took it all apart, washed everything in DOT3 brake fluid and put it all back together again. Other than the pistons being very tight against the cylinder wall, I don't think I have any issues since there are no gouges in the wheel cylinder and the rubber pieces and spring seem very fresh still. If it doesn't leak will I be ok in terms of the wheel cylinder?

This is what my drum look like. It has a very noticeable rough patch. Is is ok or should I replace?
http://i.imgur.com/ke9fqDY.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/V8NR1xM.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/MDGqgRu.jpg?1



....aaaaaand as for the steering, my steering box seems bone dry. Do I fill it with 90 weight gear oil or should I just add so much. Where I have it circled in the next photo is where all the freeplay in my steering seems to be. All nuts are tighter than my wallet.
http://i.imgur.com/gWSw1NG.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/nwMb77d.jpg

I feel like the annoying kid in class right now, asking too many questions and having zero clue

[ThorpS18]

I would have both of the front brake drums turned. I just had the drums on my 66 done for $10 each.

You said you washed everything with DOT3 brake fluid. Did you use brake fluid to clean the shoes? If you are going to try to use those brake shoes they need to be cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner. Personally, I would replace the shoes since they have been saturated with brake fluid and it might not be possible to get all the fluid out of the linings.

Nice car. Keep up the good work.

[61SNRF]

Brake Drums, like shoes, are considered expendable and have a wear limit. You can expect to get about 3 brake jobs or between 50-100,000 miles out of them.

When they rust like your photo shows, the metallurgy changes and that area is now harder with a difference in friction potential.
This can result in a vibration or pulsation in the brakes.
When turned or machined, the tool will often just skip over that area, leaving a lump or hard spot.
And, drums can only be turned so much, once their wear limit is reached, it's time to trash or recycle them.

I'd want new drums and shoes on there if it were me.
_________________
-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[bobnorman]

[Mayor Marion Berry]

Thanks again!!!! A pair of new shoes and drums and a new coupler it is then. I was thinking about swapping the steering column for a 67 for a smidgen of safety anywhoo

*edit*

are Italian brake drums close to being as "good" as German? There seems to be QUITE a price jump between the two. German being $105 each, italian being $65 each.

*double edit*

screw it, bought 2 new italian rotors and shoes to go with them.

[Mayor Marion Berry]

After 3 years and many headaches, Its road worthy!!! Successfully made it to the gas station , grocery store and even a local show. Yay!!!!

Heres whats been done so far...

-"cleaned up the engine", since I have j pipes I replaced the fanshroud for one without those heat outlets and moved the fuel filter to the front of the car.
-upgraded brake master cyl to a dual, fixed brake fluid leaks and lines
-fixed the transaxle fluid leak, while in the process pulled out an axle (oops) and learned how to drop the engine and tranny. Took the tranny to someone that knew how to fix my f-up.
-fixed the oil leak aka exxon-valdez and got oil everywhere in the process
-4 new smart car tires and 15x5.5 mangels in the back
-I think I fixed the steering
-new horn button that doesnt work yet*
-seatbelts for an illusion of safety
-speedo now works
-"porsche" style headlights that dont work yet*
-pop outs
-bought all kinds of parts that I thought I needed, but didn't

still to do
-no lights work*
-weird whirring noise coming from the back
-the wife still wont ride in it.

[Eric&Barb]

Great to see it out on the road!!
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