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Pushrod Head removal need engine removal on Buggy?
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ClipperBuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 6:39 pm    Post subject: Pushrod Head removal need engine removal on Buggy? Reply with quote

I have my 66' 1300 engine mounted in a California Clipper buggy
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

As you can see, the engine is pretty well exposed.

I need to replace the pushrod tubes. Cylinder 1 has a pretty decent leak, and they are all rusted across the board.

can I pull the tin and head without removing anything but the tin and head? while still mounted?

or do I need to remove more than just that and remove form the trans all together and put on a bench?

any help appreciated.
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were my car my engine as simple as it is to remove. Disassemble to a long block and just source the good spring loaded push rod tube. Do it right once.
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea Buy a set (Cool of the spring loaded push tubes and (Cool extra seals.

Remove the valve cover then the rocker arm and then remove the push rods and then with a pair of pliers the old push tubes.

Clean the holes real well in the case and in the head using Acetone.

The extra seal will go against the flat washer to the spring as an added seal.

Compress and place the female end into the engine and the other end into the head. Reason for this is the oil flow is towards the engine when draining.

Re assemble and adjust the valves.

(VW mechanic)
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ClipperBuggy
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So would you recommend these?
http://www.appletreeauto.com/BIG-MOUTH-O-RING-SEALED-TUBES-20176/

I read Scatt was the best because internal spring and tripple sealed.

Your saying use two sets of seals? so pick up these in addition?
http://www.appletreeauto.com/SILICONE-PUSHROD-TUBE-SEAL-113-109-345AS/
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're going to need to remove the engine to remove the fan shroud to remove/loosen cylinder head to replace tubes with traditional pushrod tubes. If removing the engine on that buggy appears daunting, you have the wrong vehicle !!!

Your only other alternative would be band-aid fix of replacing one or more of the tubes with the spring-adjustable tubes; if you do this, get best ones available !!!
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Nevada Notch
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will have to completely remove the exhaust and you are also going to run into the problem of the fan shroud removal. The fan shroud has to be lifted up and over the oil cooler and with the engine in place the shroud can't be lifted high enough.


I would suggest completely removing the engine to work on it. With the buggy setup, pulling the engine is one of the easiest engine pulls you will ever do. Hell you don't even have to jack the rear of the car off the ground!
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smile I typed in (Cool that did NOT show up but the smily face.

The 8 piece set will stay with you for years ahead if needed.

They are supposed to come with 16 seals but what I did was a 3rd seal in the middle of the tube next to the metal washer and the spring...kept any oil from leaking there.......word of advice from a VW mechanic.

Who would you listen to if there was a medical problem.......
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A 1st yr medical student or a MD with 20-30 yrs of medical background?

Answer is the 1st yr medical student WHY? ...because he is about your age.
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wythac
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll add to the dogpile:

The fact that you are asking this question indicates you don't have ACVW experience....that's OK....I don't have a lot of Subaru or Buick experience...you know what you drive/own.

So what do you do? You use this minor repair as an opportunity to gain the experience you lack, without getting in over your head.

Pull the motor. When it is sitting on the floor an hour after you started you be saying to yourself, "THATS IT?" The repair you are trying to accomplish is minimally invasive and will give you a chance to demystify the process. It will also give you a chance to inspect and possibly replace your clutch disc, throwout bearing, rear main seal and oil cooler seals, worth the time and expense "while you are there".

Good luck with your repairs on your buggy.
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The JayCee spring loaded push rod tubes are the best you can get and do not leak when installed correctly. Order them from CB and they come complete with all necessary seals and several colors to choose from.

http://www.cbperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=237
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wythac
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need to put a few of those in my off road toolbox. Good to have a testimonial from someone who has used them, I've heard some leak more than the damaged pushrod tube you are trying to replace.
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ClipperBuggy
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Appreciate the comments everyone.

I am going to pull the motor and do it right.
bought it to learn from, time to learn.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
The JayCee spring loaded push rod tubes are the best you can get and do not leak when installed correctly. Order them from CB and they come complete with all necessary seals and several colors to choose from.

http://www.cbperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=237

Why do the instructions say to install them with the springs toward the case? It would seem to make more sense that the smaller tube is toward the head so oil naturally drains away from the seal between the inner and outer tube.
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
vwracerdave wrote:
The JayCee spring loaded push rod tubes are the best you can get and do not leak when installed correctly. Order them from CB and they come complete with all necessary seals and several colors to choose from.

http://www.cbperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=237

Why do the instructions say to install them with the springs toward the case? It would seem to make more sense that the smaller tube is toward the head so oil naturally drains away from the seal between the inner and outer tube.

The bigger opening needs to go towards the head or the push rods may rub the tubes.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Q-Dog wrote:
The
The bigger opening needs to go towards the head or the push rods may rub the tubes.

Is that pretty much a given, or something only likely with more cam than stock?
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Q-Dog
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
Q-Dog wrote:
The
The bigger opening needs to go towards the head or the push rods may rub the tubes.

Is that pretty much a given, or something only likely with more cam than stock?


Depends on your lifters.
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