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jsup Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2014 Posts: 246 Location: NJ
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Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 2:59 pm Post subject: Steering box |
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Welp, this is the last stupid dis assembly question you'll be getting from me. From this point forward, it's nuthin' but assembly.
The guy I bought the car from was a real piece of ..........work. He had the midas touch, everything he touched turned to crap. The good part is, I'm just about done sorting through his mess and on my way to getting this done right.
Anyway, I tapped the holes on the top of the steering box and put bolts in them.
Can I take the lid off, check it out, use some silicone sealer for a gasket and put it back together?
Once I get it apart, what should I look for?
I know there are two schools of thoughts on this, jam it full of grease, or use gear oil. I'd prefer the grease route, but that's me. Less chance of a leak if only because the consistency. Are there any seals or anything I can change while I'm there?
Once I get this done, it's off to the powder coaters with all this crap, then the assembly starts. Any reason I can't powder coat the steering box?
There are days I just want to blow this thing up, this is one of them. This idiot I bought it from cleaned nothing, every thing is rusted shut. What mess, glad it's almost over. |
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VOLKSWAGNUT Fastest VW Belt Changer
Joined: October 14, 2007 Posts: 11055 Location: Flippin' a Belt........ .... Off-n-On ... NC USA
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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 4:58 am Post subject: |
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I've opened up steering boxes just to make sure nothing is broken and then resealed with the original gasket and some good RTV.
No problems.
I use a slurry mix of grease and gear oil for the steering box... just enough to thin down standard bearing grease.
The problem is, unless you fully disassemble and know what to look for.. its a crap shoot if the box is good, ok, or shot and even then... buying seals and parts usually out weighs replacement.
I usually take my chance with old boxes and once its on the road and under loads and stress.. then find out if its ok.
Thats is unless......its being placed on a car/body that is hard to access and replace later.. sometimes its worth it to just source a new/reman one.
And IMO... a stupid question is one that's never asked..
If you never ask the question... the answer is always No...
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. _________________ aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
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GS guy Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2007 Posts: 968 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 5:23 am Post subject: |
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I think the shaft seal(s) may still be available from Wolfsburg West? If you're pulling it down enough to powder coat seems like you'll have to fully disassemble and de-grease? I'd definitely want to replace the seals at that point.
Also, adjust the free-play only with the travel fully centered. Those boxes get alarmingly loose the further from center of travel, but that doesn't seem to make any difference in steering feel!
Jeff _________________ 70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS! |
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jsup Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2014 Posts: 246 Location: NJ
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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 8:15 am Post subject: |
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I've basically built this POS from the ground up with 100% new parts, which I didn't expect.
Some of my own choice, some because the idiot that had the car before me basically lied. I couldn't even keep the tie rods after buying all new tie rod ends i had to replace the entire tie rods. The stupid frame needed welding, which I didn't count on. Etc... Not to mention I can't touch ANY old part and not get loaded up with grease. Come within 10 feet of this car you get grease all over you. No matter what the part. As if someone painted it with grease.
I can't think of a single part of this car that I was able to re-use past the rims which I had powder coated.
Keeping the steering box, as stupid as it sounds, would be at least a very minor victory in what was otherwise a complete cluster ****.
On the other hand, everything else is brand new, what's another $140
I think the principle of replacing it pisses me off more than the practicality of it.
Anyway, I digress....Sorry for the rant.
The box does seem pretty tight just ugly, I just want to check and make sure it's all good inside. Can I get some tips on what to look for? |
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GS guy Samba Member
Joined: December 03, 2007 Posts: 968 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 10:53 am Post subject: |
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Sounds like you're not too happy about your aquisition jsup. Did you buy the thing sight unseen? FWIW, I pretty much consider any purchase of something as old as a fiberglass buggy just a "starting" point, and just about everything will need going through - regardless how the "pictures" look. At least that way if I find some good parts it's a bonus!
If the box isn't leaking and turns smoothly, I'd just try to adjust it for minimal free-play (rember - only do this at center of travel), then run it through full travel. If it's smooth, and again not leaking, clean it up and shoot some primer and paint on it and cal it a day. If you want to open it up I'd just look for the obvious - rust, empty of fluid, water, sand? You could try to clean out the old lube and re-grease without full disassembly. If you pull it all the way down, check the bearings and any wear surfaces - should all be smooth shiny surfaces.
I also wouldn't count on a "new" steering box being better than your old one. I've heard the contact surfaces of the worm and sector aren't hardened as well as the old German stuff (or just crappy steel) and doesn't wear or hold up as well. Last one I bought under the TRW brand name was already brinneled inside and seeping lube outside. Took a long time to get my $$ back from that POS. Granted, that was over 7 years ago. Maybe the quality has improved...... cough, cough. _________________ 70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS! |
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jsup Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2014 Posts: 246 Location: NJ
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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 11:02 am Post subject: |
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GS guy wrote: |
Sounds like you're not too happy about your aquisition jsup. Did you buy the thing sight unseen? FWIW, I pretty much consider any purchase of something as old as a fiberglass buggy just a "starting" point, and just about everything will need going through - regardless how the "pictures" look. At least that way if I find some good parts it's a bonus! |
Yeah, sorry about the off topic rant. I paid $2000 for a body, a frame, some rims, and engine and trans. The engine has good compression and I'm sure it will run, I'm just not going to spend the time on it. The good news is most of this stuff is cheap. I'm thinking throw on some cheap heads and sell the engine. the idiot I bought it from had the ignition coil hooked up directly to ground on one side, and directly to power on the other. Typical of everything I found going through the car. I saw it before I bought it, I just wanted a project to do. I'm probably just as mad at myself.
Quote: |
If the box isn't leaking and turns smoothly, I'd just try to adjust it for minimal free-play (rember - only do this at center of travel), then run it through full travel. If it's smooth, and again not leaking, clean it up and shoot some primer and paint on it and cal it a day. If you want to open it up I'd just look for the obvious - rust, empty of fluid, water, sand? You could try to clean out the old lube and re-grease without full disassembly. If you pull it all the way down, check the bearings and any wear surfaces - should all be smooth shiny surfaces.
I also wouldn't count on a "new" steering box being better than your old one. I've heard the contact surfaces of the worm and sector aren't hardened as well as the old German stuff (or just crappy steel) and doesn't wear or hold up as well. Last one I bought under the TRW brand name was already brinneled inside and seeping lube outside. Took a long time to get my $$ back from that POS. Granted, that was over 7 years ago. Maybe the quality has improved...... cough, cough. |
OK thanks. A physical inspection with a little common sense seems to be the way to go.
I'll open it up see what I got, put in some new grease, and perhaps a little gear oil, and tighten it back up. Shoot it with primer and be on my way. Good advice. |
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LeeVW Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2006 Posts: 1016
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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 10:24 pm Post subject: |
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Just know you are in good company when it comes to spending too much for something you originally thought was better than it turned out to be. My rail buggy was exactly that, AND I wasn't even able to use the wheels, as they turned out to be bent. Every single thing on that rail needed repairs or replacement. The engine was supposed to be a "rebuilt 1600", but it turned out to be a well worn 1200 with a broken piston. Live and learn. And learn some more!
Do you plan to use your buggy off-pavement? If so, don't put too much thought into the steering box. Stock boxes don't last long off-pavement, at least that's been my experience. I'm probably on my fifth or sixth one now, with less than 50,000 miles on the car. I replace them before they get too bad, but you get the idea.
Lee |
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jsup Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2014 Posts: 246 Location: NJ
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 6:41 am Post subject: |
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LeeVW wrote: |
Just know you are in good company when it comes to spending too much for something you originally thought was better than it turned out to be. My rail buggy was exactly that, AND I wasn't even able to use the wheels, as they turned out to be bent. Every single thing on that rail needed repairs or replacement. The engine was supposed to be a "rebuilt 1600", but it turned out to be a well worn 1200 with a broken piston. Live and learn. And learn some more! |
Yeah, I know. The corvette I'm just finishing up started with a $900 intake (which typically sold for $2000 so I had to take the bargain) Well, what probably ended up as $30,000 later, I get it. And that was on a good 20,000 mile foundation.
What pissed me off is this guy tried to cover it all up. He did his best to make it look like something it wasn't, and I was too anxious to look it over.
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Do you plan to use your buggy off-pavement? If so, don't put too much thought into the steering box. Stock boxes don't last long off-pavement, at least that's been my experience. I'm probably on my fifth or sixth one now, with less than 50,000 miles on the car. I replace them before they get too bad, but you get the idea.
Lee |
Thanks Lee, 90/10 street/beach. Thanks for the input. Good for me to know. |
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clonebug Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005 Posts: 4027 Location: NW Washington
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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The best thing to do with a buggy is start out with everything replaced. I built mine from the ground up and am intimate with every piece.
I started out with this for $100.00
.....To upgrading or improving something on it every winter and spending way too much on it.
Buggies are a time consuming, never ending money pit and the sooner you figure that out the easier it is to justify keeping......
If you start from a bare pan and install everything new you will have a reliable summer car that is a blast to drive and will get more thumbs up, smiles and waves than any car 10 times it's price.
I set mine on its wheels after slaving away on new pans, painting it and then found the frame head was bent.......
Look at the left jack stand.
Had to get another framehead welded on.
Just a minor setback......
Ten years later and over 40,000 miles it still isn't the greatest looking thing with it's original white gel coat, but it takes us on 900 mile anniversary drives and gets me to work with a quickness that surprises Mustangs and Corvettes.
_________________
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