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Bschuh66 Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Santee
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 3:26 pm Post subject: Post engine fire advice |
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Hello all.
My 65 bug with a 1200cc 6v caught fire last week
The repo 28mm fuel line came off on the freeway thus causing fire.
It was aflame for about a minute. A bucket of water was used to extinguish the flames
Aftermath...
Burned out fuel and all electrical components and air filter melted into carb and manifold
What I have done...
Replaced wires cap points oil sensor , fuel lines,
Cleaned carb rebuilt it and removed fuel manifold and cleaned it to the best of my ability
Put it all back together and she runs... Bad
Hesitation, backfire, overall rough car now
And generator is not working
As I am writing this I have it idling and it seems to get better and better.
Where should I go from here
And I am now a owner Of a fire extinguisher in both my vws lol.
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WD-40 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2006 Posts: 1178 Location: Iowa
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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Bschuh66's photos from the gallery:
//edit: looks like the others have made it into the first post.
_________________ "The new Volkswagen 1303. We've made so many improvements, they're beginning to show." |
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grandpa pete Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2008 Posts: 6426 Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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To all of you reading this and thinking " what can I do to prevent this "
Please secure your fuel line connection at the carbeurator . The unlike metals separate from the extra weight of a fuel filter bouncing in the engine compartment .
Next time you are at a swap meet check and see how many used carbs for sale have a loose connection here .
IT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU !!
I believe this photo came from Everett...thanks _________________ 63 two fold rag
66 sedan delivery Type 6
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569619&highlight=sedan+delivery
Last edited by grandpa pete on Sun Oct 19, 2014 4:33 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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jwp67 Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2012 Posts: 656
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry to hear about the fire. You always think this can't happen to me. I have as of yet to put the wire on the carb fitting. I think I have a new #1 project tomorrow. Thanks Grandpa. |
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Bschuh66 Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Santee
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 4:31 pm Post subject: |
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Carburetor safety wired Check |
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grandpa pete Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2008 Posts: 6426 Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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WD-40 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2006 Posts: 1178 Location: Iowa
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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It might be the angles of the photos, but it doesn't look like there are any clamps at all on the fuel line, either before or after the fire?
Also, you need a grommet where the hard line runs through the rear tin, or else the engine vibrations will saw a notch through that line, which then drips right onto the exhaust. If you're re-using the existing metal line, check it very carefully for marks/cuts. _________________ "The new Volkswagen 1303. We've made so many improvements, they're beginning to show." |
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grandpa pete Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2008 Posts: 6426 Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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payin_vw Samba Member
Joined: November 27, 2012 Posts: 117 Location: Colorado USA
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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one of the pictures shows the melted fuel filter still attached to the fuel line, lesson learned I suppose. _________________ 61 work in progress restoration, more work than progress actually. |
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HRVW Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2011 Posts: 2531 Location: Rosarito, Mexico
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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Use a pr of pliers and put some crimp marks on the Carb nipple and tap back into the carb using a soft mallet.....will Never come out.
Might add to use 1-7/8 soft plug in the fan housing air outlet.....can be removed if and when any heat is needed inside the car. |
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craigman Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2004 Posts: 2397 Location: redding
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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I would take the top off, pull the nipple out, and tap it for a brass threaded nipple. That should do it! |
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Helfen Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2009 Posts: 3450 Location: Vulcania
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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grandpa pete wrote: |
To all of you reading this and thinking " what can I do to prevent this "
Please secure your fuel line connection at the carbeurator . The unlike metals separate from the extra weight of a fuel filter bouncing in the engine compartment .
Next time you are at a swap meet check and see how many used carbs for sale have a loose connection here .
IT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU !!
I believe this photo came from Everett...thanks |
In the picture the safety wire on the bolt for the air horn on the carburetor is wired backwards. IF the hose clamp should pull away the wire will pull the bolt loose or counter clockwise.
One of the most important things to do before driving off is check oil and while your in the engine compartment is wise to check all fuel hose connections. Give a tug on the hose where it's attached to the pressed in tube for the carburetor and fuel pump...I had one of the pressed in tubes pop out of the fuel pump on my 64 and luckily the car didn't catch fire. Also it is most important to check the rubber grommet that supports the fuel line through the tin going out of the engine compartment. I had that rubber grommet crack and break off causing the fuel line to vibrate against the tin and almost cut the fuel line (the hard line) in half. Always check the fuel lines under the tank and in the transaxle area and make sure your rubber fuel hose is compatible with the wizz bang ethanol excuse for gasoline because it dissolves the old type of rubber fuel hose. In addition for other cars it also attacks cork and plastic carburetor parts. Also FYI, IF you have a distributor with vacuum advance make sure the copper vacuum tube is coiled in a circle ( that was put in at the factory should gas from the carburetor get in that tube so that it won't get past the loop). if this type of fuel gets into the advance diaphragm it will dissolve it and make it fail and you might get a explosion in the vacuum canister or in the distributor or both. I have seen distributor caps blown right off because of this Make sure your fuel pump has a ethanol compatible pump diaphragm in it or it will dissolve the diaphragm and leak fuel into the crankcase. If you have a plastic float for your carburetor please change it with a brass float before the gas attacks the float.
And the EPA wants to increase this to 20%...they sure are looking out for us!
Last, but certainly not least, always carry a fire extinguisher in the car. |
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bluebus86 Banned
Joined: September 02, 2010 Posts: 11075
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:15 am Post subject: |
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You are very very lucky, no fire extinguisher and you still put it out!!! you the man!!!
Get a fire extinguisher
Get safety wires and hose clamps on all fuel hoses as applicable
Get 30R9 rated fuel hose that will resist todays government mandated oxygenated crap gas that eats lesser rubber hoses, (thank you corn lobby)that cloth factory type hose don't cut it these days, and that also goes for the hose under the gas tank and near the tranny
Get a real stock air cleaner, back fires can ignite many aftermarket types such as yours, plus your engine will be free of oil spray as that air cleaner you have lacks a correctly engineered crankcase ventilation suction. You get no performance gain with that kind of air cleaner, just greater fire risk, louder motor and an oily dirty motor too.
make sure all the wires are sorted out, a shorted wire can damage the generator /regulator, or the internal insulation in these two devices is ruined, causing them to not work anymore
I survived one VW engine fire caused by lack of safety wires (fitting pulled right out of pump) and I have had two other cars where fitting pulled out with slight hand pressure!!! I had a fire extinguisher handy for the fire.
make sure you carb cleaning included new gaskets, if you re-used old gaskets, that could be cause of rough running, make sure timing is right and that advance mechanism is working correctly, make sure the vacuum hoses are clear and not leaking also, as this will effect timing too.
make sure your spark plug wires are not damaged, replace if in doubt.
My engine ran fine after my big fire, after lots of clean up (I also had to clean up extinguisher powder, never let the powder sit, it will corrode stuff fast if moist, I cleaned mine within hours of the fire)
I am glad you are ok and you saved your Bug, Hopefully you can get it better than before, may take some time, but I can tell from your fire fighting ability that you will likely get her back to great shape _________________ Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information
Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022 |
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bluebus86 Banned
Joined: September 02, 2010 Posts: 11075
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:18 am Post subject: |
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grandpa pete wrote: |
To all of you reading this and thinking " what can I do to prevent this "
Please secure your fuel line connection at the carbeurator . The unlike metals separate from the extra weight of a fuel filter bouncing in the engine compartment .
Next time you are at a swap meet check and see how many used carbs for sale have a loose connection here .
IT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU !!
I believe this photo came from Everett...thanks |
don't forget to do likewise to some of the fuel pumps, some pumps suffer from the same defect as the carbs, the nipple will slip out of the pump housing. some pumps are one piece (nipple and pump top are one part) and do not suffer from this defect that comes with age.
the original posters pump per photos is of the type that requires safety wires both inlet and outlet. _________________ Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information
Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022 |
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Nirvana09 Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2009 Posts: 171 Location: Pacific NW
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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Also, be careful about trying to put out a magnesium fire with water. If the case has already caught fire and you throw water on it, it will burn hotter. You got SUPER lucky you caught it in time. Good idea with the extinguisher. I have one behind each seat in my Bus. One for me, the other for the passenger. If I have a fire, you bet I'll want all of the help I can get. _________________ A few '56s, a '64, and some late model stuff. |
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Aussiebug Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002 Posts: 2162 Location: Adelaide Australia
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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HRVW wrote: |
:) Use a pr of pliers and put some crimp marks on the Carb nipple and tap back into the carb using a soft mallet.....will Never come out.
Might add to use 1-7/8 soft plug in the fan housing air outlet.....can be removed if and when any heat is needed inside the car. |
I prefer to Knurl the brass inlet pipe. Remove it and place on a breadboard or plastic board (not metal). Using the edge of a flat file, I roll the brass pipe under the file whilst pressing down - this puts a series of ridges around the pipe, so when pressed back into the carb, it CANT come out. If you do this on a metal surface the ridges will get pushed flat again. Only do it for the part of the pipe which goes into the carb and DONT do it near the inner end of the pipe - this is where it seals to the carb.
Simple - no special tools and like HRVWs method, it works just fine. _________________ Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13389 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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Aussiebug wrote: |
HRVW wrote: |
Use a pr of pliers and put some crimp marks on the Carb nipple and tap back into the carb using a soft mallet.....will Never come out.
Might add to use 1-7/8 soft plug in the fan housing air outlet.....can be removed if and when any heat is needed inside the car. |
I prefer to Knurl the brass inlet pipe. Remove it and place on a breadboard or plastic board (not metal). Using the edge of a flat file, I roll the brass pipe under the file whilst pressing down - this puts a series of ridges around the pipe, so when pressed back into the carb, it CANT come out. If you do this on a metal surface the ridges will get pushed flat again. Only do it for the part of the pipe which goes into the carb and DONT do it near the inner end of the pipe - this is where it seals to the carb.
Simple - no special tools and like HRVWs method, it works just fine. |
I pulled the nipples out of fuel pumps and carb tops, roughed them up then put a light coat of JB Weld on the nipples then pushed them back in. They'll NEVER come out again. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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61SNRF Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2009 Posts: 4657 Location: Whittier 90602
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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X2 ^^
All these "knurling" methods used to make a tighter physical fit are fine if it pops out while driving and you're stuck beside the road with only a pair of pliers and a screwdriver, but how much and where to distress the fitting is by trial and error and/or prior experience
As suggested, if you're in a shop environment, why not apply more modern and less aggressive alternatives that anyone can use and as a bonus also seals the fitting against leaking?
Alt 1-I've had good luck using JB Weld to hold them in for good. You need to follow product directions by sanding the fitting and carb bore a little bit with Course emery cloth to prep the union, then let it cure 72 hours before subjecting to use.
Alt 2-Green or Red LocTite used as directed on the cleaned and properly prepped fittings will secure it FOREVER. With these products I wouldn't hesitate to put them back into service within an hour.
DISCLAIMER: These methods only good up to ~1000*F, so no guarantees if you have another engine fire due to weak fuel hoses
I will say dealing with the critical body and paint work issue that comes after an engine fire is most important right off the bat.
The fire burns off all the paint and protection, and the sheet metal can even change after a fire.
To save the vents and to be able to paint them successfully is a lot of work and a real challenge even for pro's. Lots of nooks, crannys and seams in this area of the body for rust to grow.
Time is not on your side in this instance, I would recommend getting some form of anti-rust treatment/protection on the areas that got burnt to bare metal that are now rusting ASAP. _________________ -Bruce
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. |
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madmack Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2010 Posts: 93 Location: Indiana
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:48 am Post subject: |
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I had Tim at VolkzBitz to tap and barbed fit my carb when he rebuilt it. _________________ 1972 Tintop Westfalia 2.0 091
1966 Bahama Blue Type 1 2017
SgtSamy wrote: |
Drive slow and enjoy the ride, what is the hurry, we all reach the same destination at the end. |
Volkswagens are not just a vehicle to drive. Its hobby to love and invest time into.
A work of art has no importance whatever to society. It is only important to the individual.
Vladimir Nabokov |
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VolkzBitz Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2009 Posts: 300 Location: Washington State USA
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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:16 am Post subject: |
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There are no brass floats available for these carbs, the plastic ones seem to be standing up to the new fuel, but the sponge ones soak up gas and become heavy. Also, its the 2 different metals of the carburetor and the brass inlet that cause the problem, when they get hot, they expand and contract at different rates, after time they become loose.
Here is the modification that I offer. The carburetor is tapped, and the fitting screwed in.
_________________ http://volkzbitz.com
Quality VW Solex carburetor restoration
[email protected]
Der Vergaser Meister |
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