Author |
Message |
CnfsdWhtGuy Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2014 Posts: 54 Location: Washington
|
Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:26 pm Post subject: Need help reviving 64 Karmann Ghia |
|
|
Have a 1964 Karmann Ghia and I am trying to bring it back to life. It did not run for 15 years give or take a few. Well I put in new oil, new soft fuel lines, cleaned carb (This is my first time working on a car period so originally I didn't actually clean the jets. I thought they were just screws. A friend helped me and we cleaned them out recently thinking this would solve my problem. it did but not all the way), new fuel pump, new points, new condenser (excuse any grammatical errors.), new spark plugs and wires. I cleaned the tank and put in gas. I attempted to set the timing but not with a light gun. I saw a video online using a 12 battery tester and I used this. I gapped the valves as well. I think I did this all right but again its my first time.
Anyhow back to trying to start the car. (Again I may garble terminology so don't hold it against me.) It will start if I have the throttle on the furthest step out on the choke. I also have to limit the air flow ever so slightly to keep it from dying. It will start easily this way but this is as far as I can get. If I step down a tooth I have to close off the air more to keep it running. I have tried screwing in the throttle screw, unscrewed the fuel mixture screw (the average was about 2 full turns from all the way in. It really didn't help) in increments and neither negated the problem. It would run idling really high or it would die. No real in between. And when I say high know that I really have no idea what it sounds like when it is right...
I even toyed with the distributor just slightly to see if one direction would help... Didn't seem to as far as I could tell.
If there is any other information you need just let me know.
Just a confused white guy asking for you help... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
NOVA Airhead Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2005 Posts: 5221 Location: Richmond, VA
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
It sounds like you may need a carb rebuild. _________________ Ghia Owner Emeritus |
|
Back to top |
|
|
CnfsdWhtGuy Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2014 Posts: 54 Location: Washington
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 7:38 am Post subject: |
|
|
I bought the kit and did the rebuild already. I believe I did it correctly but it is definitely possible I did something wrong. As I mentioned earlier I didnt clean the jets properly. I took to a friends house though and he used his air compressor and blew out each of the jets and the carb itself. There was air flow and the jets seemed clear to me.
If you think this is still the culprit I have no problem getting into it again but I thought I solved that issue. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
karghia74 Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2011 Posts: 153 Location: Ohio
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
CnfsdWhtGuy Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2014 Posts: 54 Location: Washington
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I did setup each. I really dont remember the order though i.e. Points or timing.
I believe I setup the points and condenser correctly. I made sure I was on number 1 and I put in the new points and used a business card for spacing. It was was tight on the card and I tightened it down. When I removed the card there was a space. it was not touching.
For the starter I lined up to 7 degrees off TDC which is supposed to be how you set the timing and I lined up the distributer using the 12v light tester.
As for the carb I will read that shortly and get back to you. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
-Zodiac- Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2014 Posts: 782 Location: Pensacola/milton, florida
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Gotta set points to .016 and valves to .006 _________________ 1973 karmann ghia - current, not the last VW.
1947 Chevy stylemaster - gone, but not forgotten.
1995 Ford F-150 - gone, hatred for it lives. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
CnfsdWhtGuy Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2014 Posts: 54 Location: Washington
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Set the valves at .006. I was told a business card is .016 and that is why I used that. Is that not correct? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
-Zodiac- Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2014 Posts: 782 Location: Pensacola/milton, florida
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Lol never had to measure a business card. Probably close enough to get it moving, but invest in some feeler gauges . _________________ 1973 karmann ghia - current, not the last VW.
1947 Chevy stylemaster - gone, but not forgotten.
1995 Ford F-150 - gone, hatred for it lives. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
CnfsdWhtGuy Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2014 Posts: 54 Location: Washington
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yeah my buddy gave me a set. I just didnt have it when I set the points. So I did the points before the valves... would that matter? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
-Zodiac- Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2014 Posts: 782 Location: Pensacola/milton, florida
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Not at all, if you want to see if you points are firing you can turn the ignition and and move them with a screwdriver to look for the arc. _________________ 1973 karmann ghia - current, not the last VW.
1947 Chevy stylemaster - gone, but not forgotten.
1995 Ford F-150 - gone, hatred for it lives. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
CnfsdWhtGuy Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2014 Posts: 54 Location: Washington
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Zodiac,
What do you mean? Am I turning it over with the ignition or just turning the car on? And what am I moving with a screw driver? I am going to realign and gap the points tonight. I would like to confirm it is working correctly though. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
-Zodiac- Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2014 Posts: 782 Location: Pensacola/milton, florida
|
Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 3:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Agreed,it's not really telling you anything exept that you are getting fire there and your points are alright, won't tell you if it's set. You're just pushing the points away from eachother.
Set those points, make sure your carb is good and tell us how it goes. _________________ 1973 karmann ghia - current, not the last VW.
1947 Chevy stylemaster - gone, but not forgotten.
1995 Ford F-150 - gone, hatred for it lives. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
CnfsdWhtGuy Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2014 Posts: 54 Location: Washington
|
Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 2:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ok so I do not have a dwell meter yet but I regapped the Points. I started it again and it started when on the top step and would run without closing the air flow. As I stepped the choke steps down however it died. I made a to the second to last step. Again if I hold the airflow closed it will run even at the lower throttle position. It makes me think there is an intake leak somewhere but I don't see anything. I will get the dwell meter this weekend but let me know your thoughts at this point. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
SchnuppiePup Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2014 Posts: 67 Location: San Jose, California
|
Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 2:02 am Post subject: |
|
|
I also thought that similar trouble with my '64 Guia was due to carburetor or ignition system issues. It started and ran, but ugh, lousy. I did everything possible to get the carb and ignition system correct. Then I did a compression check: lousy compression. Eventually, a tear-down showed that the cylinder heads were cracked and the valves (part of the heads) weren't in such great shape either. Recall that an engine needs fuel, spark, and compression.
Good news: (1) A compression gauge will set you back maybe $40 at your local auto parts store. (2) Compression checks are as easy as changing a spark plug. (3) Compression is a good indicator of conditions in individual cylinders/pistons and the engine in general. (4) The carb and ignition system don't need to be operating correctly to do a compression check; i.e., you can isolate a (compression) problem.
Bad news: If your compression is way below specs (<100 psi), as was mine (incredibly low, yet the engine still started and ran), then you should consider dropping the engine and removing the cylinder heads to diagnose and address the problem: (1) Examine the heads with a magnifying glass and/or (2) take them to a local VW shop you trust.
Good news: My '64 Guia engine purrs like a kitten now; maybe yours will too, soon. _________________ Better a life-long learner than a life-long know-it-all.
1964 Ghia coupe
1968 Honda CT 90
1980 Honda CT 110 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22670 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
|
Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 4:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
A car that sat for 15 years will likely have trouble making compression until the pistons rings and cylinders can all be happy together again.
The compression test will tell you how well they are doing their job.
I think you have a vacuum leak though. Check all those small hoses for mouse activity. _________________ .ssS! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
oceanair Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2013 Posts: 720 Location: Victoria, BC
|
Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 10:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
Or... let your car warm up for 5 minutes or so on whatever lobe will give it a good enough speed to get warm and running. Then try the lowest lobe on the carb that will keep her running and adjust the idle screw. If it does nothing then you certainly have leaks. You will have low compression for sure. The only way to get than back in my opinion is to drive it, she needs a load to get that back and maybe even some Mystery oil.
Good Luck! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|