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Need help reviving 64 Karmann Ghia
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see your video and it looks like all pushrods are in place and moving. I dont understand this...
Quote:
It does not look like your picture at all

It looks exactly like my pic...other than my pic one pushrod is off the rocker arm. Good news is...you get to keep your Samba name Embarassed
The bad news...possible problems
Severely bent push rods
Dropped valve seat
Burned valve
Hole in piston
Cracked head
All except the push rods require pulling the motor and heads. Check pushrods first (roll on a flat surface to see if straight)...then pull engine. Crying or Very sad
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SchnuppiePup
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed.

95-100 psi in three cylinders is marginal, and 0 psi Shocked in one is cause for great concern. The engine will start and run but will only run "well" when the three "good" cylinders are given lots of juice.

Assuming you've double/triple checked the valve adjustments, remove the push rods and check for straightness as advised above.

Unfortunately, if all of this inspection work shows no problems, then you've probably got a crack in a cylinder head next to a spark plug. The only way to find out may be to drop the engine, remove the afflicted head, and examine. Alternatively/also, there could be a burnt valve or valve seat or a broken piston ring or two.

This all may be the reason someone (the PO?) parked the car and didn't drive it for 15 years.

Fortunately Very Happy , you're on your way to understanding and reconditioning your VW engine inside and out, as was I as a first-time Guia owner and tearer-downer and rebuilder 10 months ago.
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I figured it out... http://i.imgur.com/rnteQ0S.jpg?1

Anyone have a single port head handy?


Last edited by CnfsdWhtGuy on Wed Jan 14, 2015 8:52 am; edited 1 time in total
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motorhead364
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just jumping in on this thread and have not read the whole thing but if I were you I would pull the other head and take them to the local machine shop. Have them vat the heads check for cracks then run new guides and new valves and springs on both sides. They will lap in the valves too. That way you will know your heads are good to go for a long time. I think you could have that done for less than $400 if you find the right shop. Maybe $350 if you get the parts cheaper from the local VW guy and take the new parts with the heads. You should be able to bolt them right back on and go if you don't find any problems with the cylinders.

Good luck
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CiderGuy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CnfsdWhtGuy wrote:
Well I figured it out... http://i.imgur.com/rnteQ0S.jpg?1

Anyone have a single port head handy?


Yes I do and it looks brand new.
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zombiesloth79
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CnfsdWhtGuy wrote:
Well I figured it out... http://i.imgur.com/rnteQ0S.jpg?1

Anyone have a single port head handy?


Why replace the whole head? Apart from a lot of carbon and crap, the head doesn't look destroyed. Just replace the valves and guides.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with zombie and motorhead. You really don't want to mix heads. Will it run? yes. Will it run right? Rolling Eyes
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CiderGuy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

c21darrel wrote:
I agree with zombie and motorhead. You really don't want to mix heads. Will it run? yes. Will it run right? Rolling Eyes


I just swapped out a head and installed new cylinders and pistons on a motor I have. The old head shot a spark plug with the heli coil still attached. When I removed it, I couldn't get the cylinder free, it was stuck to the head. I beat it, used penetrating oil, heat... nothing worked...

The motor runs more then good. Having one head ported and the other not, I agree.... But two different numbers not so much.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have 49cc head on the 1/3 side and 56cc head on the 2/4 side can it ever really run right? Confused inquiring minds want to know.
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok thanks for the input. I will replace the valve... recommendation on good product to clean the head?
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good soak in kerosine, or purple power should work for cleaning up the carbon. I haven't used purple power before, I have read that it works though - kerosine is my go to.
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SchnuppiePup
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CnfsdWhtGuy wrote:
Well I figured it out... http://i.imgur.com/rnteQ0S.jpg?1

Anyone have a single port head handy?


You did it!Very Happy My gosh, dropped the engine, unmounted the head from the offending cylinders, and posted a photo. Kudos. A broken valve.

Hopefully, you can just replace the one valve. While you're at it, just to be sure, check whether the entire head may need replacing. Scrub clean the dirty, black interior surface of the cylinder head: use whatever combination of toothbrush, steel wire brush, EZ Off oven cleaner, gasoline (use all appropriate cautions), small woodworking tool. Just don't touch (knick) the nice, shiny circular rim that mates with the cylinders or the circular areas where the valves contact the head. Once you're down to bare metal (this cleaning is good for the engine regardless), get a magnifying glass and look for any cracks in the cylinder head. Any cracks will likely be between the valves and the spark plug port. By the way, what's that weird white thing there?

Consider scrub cleaning and examining the other side (cylinder) of the head (good, can't hurt, assuming you're careful) and removing and doing the same with the cylinder head on the other side of the engine. Or not: compression there may be OK.

Consider getting just a new (rebuilt) head including valves and springs. The valve seats will have been machined to mate properly with the valves.
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Just picked up this head from someone local... didn't notice the crack on the left until I got home... is this something to worry about?

Called the guy and he said it was fine.
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jpjohns
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crack is fine? Shocked
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sputnick60
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The crack is not fine. Sadly, you have acquired a door stop.

Nicholas
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicholas is correct. You have a fine door stop. Crying or Very sad
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I returned it. Looking at a local mechanic now for a head.
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok bought new pushrods and an engine seal kit. Oh yeah and i got a good head. So i put the heads on and the push rod tubes and followed the torque specs. When torqued down properly the push rod tubes are still loose. They wiggle back and forth just a little bit. Did i get the wrong size? Does that change? I bought the push rod tubes from a reputable vw shop in town. there was a small amount of rust but they lookef unused. The shop guy said it was just shelf wear and that they were new. it looks like the head is fully seated. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

Last edited by CnfsdWhtGuy on Sun Feb 08, 2015 9:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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motorhead364
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you adjusted the valve lash?
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It isnt even on.

Edit: yeah i didnt specify that i meant push rod tubes... its the tubes that are loose when the head is torwued down.


Last edited by CnfsdWhtGuy on Sun Feb 08, 2015 9:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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