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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 1:25 am Post subject: |
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After seam sealing, floor pan has been painted. Bottom is in satin black, top floor sections are in a sound-deadening paint. Not a smooth finish but won't be visible under the carpet/mats.
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CiderGuy Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2013 Posts: 1351 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:36 am Post subject: |
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Very nice work.
I'm a bit confused on seam sealing. Why are you seam sealing metal that isn't over lapping ? I thought that's what seam sealing was for. _________________ ----------------------
Cars Currently Owned:
1970 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Project car for sale
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (Body off restoration)
Timing is everything |
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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 5:14 am Post subject: |
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Cider guy
The seam sealer has only gone where there is overlapping metal as you say below, like where the tunnel meets the floor pan. But it goes on before the final coats of paint.
There was primer put on before either seam sealer or the skim coat of bog/filler was applied to the welded patches. That might be where you were scratching your head. |
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CiderGuy Samba Member
Joined: December 23, 2013 Posts: 1351 Location: Bucks County, Pa
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:08 am Post subject: |
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Angus Dowrie wrote: |
Cider guy
The seam sealer has only gone where there is overlapping metal as you say below, like where the tunnel meets the floor pan. But it goes on before the final coats of paint.
There was primer put on before either seam sealer or the skim coat of bog/filler was applied to the welded patches. That might be where you were scratching your head. |
Thanks for the reply, now I understand what you did. _________________ ----------------------
Cars Currently Owned:
1970 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Project car for sale
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (Body off restoration)
Timing is everything |
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VeeDubWolf Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2010 Posts: 656 Location: Yakima, WA
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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You could almost eat off of that, it's beautiful!
I wonder if that sound-deadening stuff has something like Styrofoam encapsulated in the mix? _________________ Two Bugs-
'70 rust-bucket sunroof sedan
'69 PO hack-job special
-Plus a wide assortment of various parts'n'junk |
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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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I don't think so. It's more along the lines of a stone-guard finish, but because it is a denser coat has some sound-deadening qualities as well.
The floor pan coming together. Wheels are coming back this afternoon with tyres fitted, oil shocks to be fitted. Initially for rolling around the front drums will be on, but a CSP disc brake kit has been ordered for final assembly. New TRW steering box, king/link pins, bushes, torsion leaves checked - otherwise the original item tarted up with some paint. |
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djway3474 Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2011 Posts: 2582 Location: The Real NDK So Cal
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 11:59 pm Post subject: |
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looks great I have been considering doing the underside of the pan with a bed liner material to help prevent chipping and it also deadens sound |
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c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 1:06 am Post subject: |
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Floor pan is largely assembled. Brake lines run, except to MC which I haven't got yet. Thought I had one but it was incorrect one, for the superbug. Shocks on, Sachs oil-filled. The fuel line was blocked from mud wasps apparently, took a while to clear out.
Wheels are just there for a glamour shot, there will be some shop steelies that go on to just roll it around.
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DorianL Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2013 Posts: 717 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 7:33 am Post subject: |
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Mmmmm, I love the smell of new car... |
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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:03 am Post subject: |
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It's nice to get a new car smell into a 52 year old car!
I am chasing the Ghia ivory knobs for dash switches, seat adjusters, parking brake, and Blaupunkt radio.
Any leads on the best repros? I have tried contacting brezelwerks a few times without luck, not sure if he is still doing them?
Been talking with Kevin at Trimtec re the interior, colours are below for a sea-blue with white roof.
The vinyl on the left is the approx colour of the houndstooth, blue-white colour in the middle will be the seat side panels and the seam welded centre strip on the door/side panels, and the blue on the right will be the small ribbed for the door/side. Carpet is obviously the floor. I still have the rubber floor mats, but will make carpet mats as well to save them a bit. RHD Ghia mats are made from unobtanium.
Last edited by Angus Dowrie on Fri Jun 12, 2015 5:32 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:59 am Post subject: |
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Angus Dowrie wrote: |
It's nice to get a new car smell into a 52 year old car!
I am chasing the Ghia ivory knobs for dash switches, seat adjusters, parking brake, and Blaupunkt radio.
Any leads on the best repros? I have tried contacting brezelwerks a few times without luck, not sure if he is still doing them?
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I got all mine from KGPR. The quality is good but comes in 10 different shades of ivory so will need painting if you want it to all look the same. |
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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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Rich62ghia wrote: |
I got all mine from KGPR. The quality is good but comes in 10 different shades of ivory so will need painting if you want it to all look the same. |
Hi Rich, what paint did you use on the switches? Has it stayed on OK, or rubbed/worn off? |
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Rich62ghia Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2012 Posts: 147 Location: Wollongong, Australia
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 1:04 am Post subject: |
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Hi Angus,
A little unorthodox, but I used Wattyl 'kill rust' in white. Its a good quality super glossy epoxy paint that was readily available in a can. Expensive but it is good stuff and doesnt come off. When I first painted it was a bright white which suited the look I was going for, as all my vinyl was bright white. But after a couple of years it has since probably faded a little to an off white but still looks really good. Durabilty has been excellent, I even painted my old cracked fresh air levers. The epoxy paint after a few coates filled all the cracks. The only issue I had was on the steering wheel when I was doing something with a razor blade in the cabin and accidentily scratched the wheel. Only way to fix it was to lightly sand the scratch and repaint the whole wheel. But this is also the advantage of not having to rely on a paint shop. Painting plastic also takes a lot longer to dry probably about 3-4days.
May not suit the look you are going for if you are going for a true ivory. Recomended if you want a good DYI option
Rich |
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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 12:59 am Post subject: |
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I'll give that a go, but I think my knobs/levers are probably too far gone to restore.
Phoebe is having a drastic face-lift. Front clip has been cut off, rough cut for now, to be trimmed precisely when the replacement one arrives.
Body meets pan, to be sure of alignment when front clip is replaced. They will be parted again soon though.
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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:28 am Post subject: |
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Been a while since my last update, few little dramas! I came off my bicycle, ended up with a couple of small fractures in my left hand (cast) and a dislocation/sprain of my right AC joint (shoulder, in sling for a fortnight).
Barry the guy doing the bodywork was sick for two weeks. All in all not a productive time, but at least have the new front clip now, ready for a face-lift.
Hopefully have a smoother run from here. |
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VeeDubWolf Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2010 Posts: 656 Location: Yakima, WA
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Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 12:20 pm Post subject: |
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Front clip looks to be in good shape at least! Hope you and Barry feel better soon! _________________ Two Bugs-
'70 rust-bucket sunroof sedan
'69 PO hack-job special
-Plus a wide assortment of various parts'n'junk |
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c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
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cracker666 Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2012 Posts: 156 Location: UK
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Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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c21darrel wrote: |
Thanks for the update. Why does the front of the headlite bucket area look odd? Flat front, the old part looked correct. |
they don't look like normal ghia buckets. |
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Angus Dowrie Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 341 Location: Kangaroo Point, Australia
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Posted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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VeeDubWolf wrote: |
Front clip looks to be in good shape at least! Hope you and Barry feel better soon! |
Yes both ok, he's back at work, I'm hopefully getting my cast off this Friday.
Clip is a lot better than my original one. If you check the photos of the wheel well on the first couple of pages of this thread, it's quite crumpled up. Got hit and the inner panels wrinkled, front rolled under a bit and the front fenders bulged out a little.
It had the typical rust around headlights but not bad rust-wise. The new clip is off a '62, same era as mine (oct'62 build) and is quite straight. It needs the headlight areas done as well, buckets are shot and the left front got a small hit and has something strange put in. Already had those panels to fix up my original, plus the lower chin area with the cross imprint.
So this needs a little rust work but no more than the original, and is straight. You could spend a long time trying to hammer those wrinkles out and it still wouldn't be right. You can see the inner panels on this are good.
My general rule has been to keep as much of the original as possible, but this will give a better result and still with mostly original Karmann panels.
Last edited by Angus Dowrie on Mon Jul 13, 2015 11:46 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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