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aircoolnut Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2006 Posts: 157 Location: Spanaway, WA
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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tb03830 wrote: |
When you get it back together check to make sure you are holding preassure. Get the drum back on and get it all set back up and test the brakes. Once you have fully tested the brakes and spun the drums wit hthe brakes applied and they appear to be working pull the drum off again and look and see if the cylinder is leaking. If so it is one indication the cylinder is over extinding.
Have you measured the drums yet?
I agree with Northof49. I don't think that is the issue here. Might cause week brakes but not the self destruction. |
What if it is holding pressure but not releasing it? That can be caused by the rubber lines being swollen shut. Every time the brakes were applied, could the pressure increase until the pistons pushed out? Especially if the drum is worn beyond the limit. |
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tb03830 Samba Member
Joined: December 02, 2009 Posts: 1045 Location: Leavenworth, KS
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Agree^^^^ _________________ "Sic Vic Pacem, Para bellum - Pray for peace, prepare for war."
1964 Convertible Bug - 1600cc SP engine with a stock H30/31 Carb and SVDA Distributor - Swing Arm Highway Flyer Tranny, Gene Berg's Temperature Dipstick, 2.5" drop spindles, 2" narrowed adjustable front end. Chromed OEM fan tower. |
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Northof49 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2013 Posts: 1759 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 3:20 pm Post subject: |
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If I am reading his posts correctly, I thought he wrote that he replaced it with a new drum last time it happened? _________________ 1958 Karmann Ghia owner |
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Brian Anthony Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 215 Location: Longview TX
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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Are you adjusting the brakes after installing the drum? If the adjustment screws are turned all the way in, the brake pistons may be extending too far, jamming, and causing the crash. _________________ 1965 Double Cab
1967 Bug, Sedan
1967 Bug, Convertible
I’m not old, but I once knew a man who was alive during the Civil War, and he once knew Revolutionary War veterans. |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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FIRST you need to check to make sure you don’t have lug bolts that are too long. Just because you got them from a reputable dealer means NOTHING!
They come in different lengths and you may have some that are too long for the wheel/drum set up you are running!
It’s pretty simple to check. Take the drum off the car and bolt the wheel to it. Look to see how far they stick inside the drum. They should be FLUSH. If not, you need to shorten them or replace them so they are.
The rear brakes getting less pressure then the fronts is CORRECT! Otherwise when you got on the brakes and the weight transferred to the front, the rear wheels get light on the pavement and would lock up. So almost all cars are designed from the factory to have less pressure going to the rears.
I don’t buy the loose wheel cylinder theory. If this were true, hundreds of these cars that are running around in need of a brake adjustment would be having this same problem every day and that’s just not the case.
It’s difficult to look at a pile of parts and try to figure out what failed first. In this case did the linings come off the shoes as a result of the explosion, or was the explosion caused by the linings coming off the shoes?
If a lining comes off and is loose inside the drum it can cause this sort of destruction.
I suspect your brake linings, or your lug bolts. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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Crank_Shaft Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2014 Posts: 12 Location: South Africa
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Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 4:40 am Post subject: |
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drscope wrote: |
I suspect your brake linings, or your lug bolts. |
I have done all of this. my lugs are flush on the inside of the drum. even when torqued to 140Nm ( I torque them to 140Nm because they're mag rims, just in case anyone suspects I tighten them too much.) and also the brake linings were new so I don't think they would have come off. I think they came off as a result of the explosion not caused it. but yes, new born babies also die, so I'll be cautious as i drive.
I adjust the brakes every time I work on them, and I test drive it to see if the brakes seat properly every time too. So I'm baffled at the moment as to why this keeps happening. I normally starts with a rattle and a few meters later BANG!!!
But I have replaced all the parts and have a new problem now. When i bleed the brakes the pedal is on top and everything's fine. But when I came back a few minutes later there's no pedal. And when I drive it I press it the first time and there's still no pedal but the car will slow down a little and if I pump it twice the wheels lock but there is still no pedal, just a slight sponginess toward the end of the pedal.
This car is seriously starting to drive me crazy. |
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Crank_Shaft Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2014 Posts: 12 Location: South Africa
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Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 5:57 am Post subject: Success |
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Everything seems to be fine now. I went and bought new everything, new brake kits, lugs and linings. I have now driven about 50km ( I think its around 30 miles) with the car and have had no problems so Im guessing the problem was replaced.
Thanks for all the help, I have learned quite a few new things. |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34002 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2014 9:50 am Post subject: Re: Success |
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Crank_Shaft wrote: |
Im guessing the problem was replaced. |
tick...tick...tick... |
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