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jrailer
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a thread on here
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GS guy wrote:
Nice looking welds from a stick welder! Since your thread is geared towards the beginner builder, you might also comment on where you piced up your supplies - steel, etc, and what kind of $$ is being spent to do this kind of work. This lets the reader know a little more the money needed to accomplish the re-build, in addition to the description.
Nice work!
Jeff

Thx for the compliment on the welds. I am trying to cover costs as I go. Check back a few posts. I covered my metal supplier and the cost of my pan (so far). I will try and continually keep up to date on costs.

Thx for the input and pics on the front support. Going to build my own here shortly and I'm going to use thicker material.
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motoRAT
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm glad someone use the stick welder Very Happy
In Portugal only the shop's and professional business can afford the gas price that only one company supply for the MIG/MAG and TIG
As the stick is the only way to weld in here, can you provide the type of sticks most adequate for the job, as I'm most interested in chassis work, I'll be doing this in a near future Wink
thanks
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wythac
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't see that your Napoleon's hat was missing. My post and pic is only for a lift kit extension, which is what I thought you were doing.

Joe is absolutely right, that area needs a double wall to hold components in place under force.
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2014 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

motoRAT wrote:
I'm glad someone use the stick welder Very Happy
In Portugal only the shop's and professional business can afford the gas price that only one company supply for the MIG/MAG and TIG
As the stick is the only way to weld in here, can you provide the type of sticks most adequate for the job, as I'm most interested in chassis work, I'll be doing this in a near future Wink
thanks

I use the stick welder for the same reason. Cant afford anything else right now. I had the option to upgrade my welder or get a plasma cutter and went with the plasma cutter and will never regret that decision.
As far as a stick recommendation I use lincoln E6011 1/8" electrodes. I know it as the orange label. I use these on 90% of all my projects. Im not any kind of expert on welding so I asked the same question you did to an expert welder and these were recommended to me for a wide range of mild steel applications. Essentialy in a nice way he told me that this is a multi purpose electrode for hobbyists who dont know what they are doing. They are good for AC and DC welding and they are supposed to be good for vertical and overhead welding but im not even good enough to try overhead welding. I have found that for most the stuff I weld the 1/8" stick works good. If I do any thicker material like 1/4" plate I will do a 3/16" electrode but in my garage thats not that common. Anyway hope that helps.

IF THERE IS AN EXPERT WELDER IN THE HOUSE PLEASE COMMENT.
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heywebonya
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great build and well done, makes me want to rebuild some of the ideas you have used.
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motoRAT
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ammocan wrote:
motoRAT wrote:
I'm glad someone use the stick welder Very Happy
In Portugal only the shop's and professional business can afford the gas price that only one company supply for the MIG/MAG and TIG
As the stick is the only way to weld in here, can you provide the type of sticks most adequate for the job, as I'm most interested in chassis work, I'll be doing this in a near future Wink
thanks

I use the stick welder for the same reason. Cant afford anything else right now. I had the option to upgrade my welder or get a plasma cutter and went with the plasma cutter and will never regret that decision.
As far as a stick recommendation I use lincoln E6011 1/8" electrodes. I know it as the orange label. I use these on 90% of all my projects. Im not any kind of expert on welding so I asked the same question you did to an expert welder and these were recommended to me for a wide range of mild steel applications. Essentialy in a nice way he told me that this is a multi purpose electrode for hobbyists who dont know what they are doing. They are good for AC and DC welding and they are supposed to be good for vertical and overhead welding but im not even good enough to try overhead welding. I have found that for most the stuff I weld the 1/8" stick works good. If I do any thicker material like 1/4" plate I will do a 3/16" electrode but in my garage thats not that common. Anyway hope that helps.

IF THERE IS AN EXPERT WELDER IN THE HOUSE PLEASE COMMENT.

super, thanks Very Happy
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Buggy Brian
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great so far! Glad to see a beginner (like me) actually tackling a job like this. I've only touched a welder once in my life, and my schedule doesn't afford me the time to learn, so I've had to farm out my chassis and cage work. I'll be starting the dismantling of my buggy soon.

Keep up the good work! Looks great so far!
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok another question for the experts. Im getting ready to do the rear frame support and I found that the fiberglass had been badly hacked and there were several layers of rubber between the rear body lip and the frame just to seal it up. Anyway I need to glass in a flange on the rear of the body so I have something to bolt to the frame. Is it going to be easier to do the fiberglass work first then make the frame to fit or should I weld the frame then glass the body to fit the frame.
I feel like this is one of those times where someone who has been there done that could save me a boatload of time and headache.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think your question is a picture posting time so we can see what you are dealing with.
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

ok so this should help a little. The fiberglass was cut for some unknown reason along the back wall and it appears that it was cut by ray charles with a chain saw. Needless to say the body needs repair along the back wall where it mounts to the frame but im not sure if it is best to repair the fiberglass and fit the frame to it or build the rear support of the frame then repair the fiberglass to match.
I guess what I am most concerned about is getting the fiberglass and frame to match up nicely to give me a good seal.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

Since fiberglass is easier to shape than metal, my approach would be to finish building the perimeter frame, weld into place, then make a lip to match into the body that fits that new frame. In the long run, it will look neater and cleaner.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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theredbarn
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
Thanks!

Since fiberglass is easier to shape than metal, my approach would be to finish building the perimeter frame, weld into place, then make a lip to match into the body that fits that new frame. In the long run, it will look neater and cleaner.


Sage advice! I'm about ready to pull my project into the neighbors garage (she said I could use it for as long as I need!) and I've been sweating details like this, that I've noticed as I dismantled it. Admittedly my mind did not go to the 'fiberglass-fix" solution but instead to my weak welding skills side....

So many good reasons to lurk around on this forum before digging in!
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow it has been too long since i have worked on the buggy. About 4 hrs of work included a trip to my steel supplier. I picked up a piece of 2'x4' diamond plate for my side racks and i got 24ft of 1 1/4" od tube for the frame of my side racks. I also picked up a 12 ft piece of 1x1 square tube for the napoleon hat and a small 1/4" plate for the fire wall. I also got a 12ft piece of 1x 1 1/2" tube for the rear frame support. All together this cost me $110.00

I began work on the front frame support
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

After getting it bent up i cut the ends to fit inside my outer frame and it matched up nicely with the outer frame which should give me a nice seal around the body.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

now that the holidays are past i should be able to give this project more time.
Beginner builders be aware that all aspects of a build will take more time than you think it will and the same is true for money. Always expect this and you will experience less frustration and the experience will be more enjoyable.
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

so i did what welding i could on the frame support before welding to the chassis.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

i fitted the master cylinder and cut a hole for it. I had to cut the hole free hand with a plasma cutter then used a grinder to touch it up and a large file for fine tuning then drilled the holes for mounting.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

i then did final welding to the chassis. This took a lot longer than i expected.
All together the front frame support took me 9 hrs but this includes finishing one side of the frame rail end as seen below which i forgot about.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by ammocan on Sat Jan 10, 2015 11:21 am; edited 1 time in total
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I got several boxes of parts and I have nearly replaced everything on the car. I decided to tally my total for parts and materials so far so the beginners contemplating a build will have some idea of where im at. I paid 2300 for the car originally and knowing what I know now I feel i over paid slightly but such is life. I was going to type out my parts list with prices but I had a written list that i just took a picture of.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This list includes a few parts I needed to do previous repairs. This list is pretty comprehensive and gives me new parts for about 50% of the carthe other 50% is parts that are in great shape and shouldnt give me a problem. I now have just about everything i need to finish the car. Tack on about and extra 10% to my current costs and that should cover anything i haven't thought of or small supplies. This list includes enough material to do side racks and rear mount for the bumper and a frame support under the dash. This does not include paint for the body or chassis. I will do those costs when I get there.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you have about $4800.00 into it the way it sits now? You aren't doing too bad......

I paid $100.00 for my body on an untitled pan which is what I started with.
I ended up at around $3800.00 as a driver including a set of PRR seats and $500.00 for my rear seat.
That was just the first build though.
The problem is when you find upgrades to do to it every winter........ Rolling Eyes Crying or Very sad
Don't ever try putting a turbo on it.......you'll be addicted to boost and it is nothing but money rolling out the door.

The last time I added up stuff I was pushing $8000.00.

I'm calling it maintenance..... Surprised Laughing Laughing
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So while trying to plan out the rear frame support I found that the body has a curve to it rather than angles. This would fit terribly on a regular floor pan (which it did) but since this is a custom build i figured I would just go with it. The bend was pretty mild so I was able to bend a piece of thick wall 1x2 to closely match the curvature of the body.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I then cut it and fit it to the frame and it fit exactly where it was supposed to on both ends and sat perfectly on top of the tunnel like it was meant to be.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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ammocan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so this one is going to take some explaining but my rear access panel is a little unorthodox. After I got the rear frame support bent and tacked in place i put the body on to see how well it fit and it was spot on and I realy liked having a nice clean line all the way across the arch so i decided to build up a little platform directly behind the arch which matched the curve of the arch. I also cut a hole in it which will give me my access and my fiber glass will match the arch and have a nice clean line all the way across. I will then just cover the access with a small plate right on top of the fiberglass.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

im open to feedback on this one and any issues you seasoned buggy builders see with this but I should still have plenty of access this way. The joint between the arch support and the raised platform were welded together to add strength. The gap under the arch will get covered with a plate and welded closed since its not a big enough gap to be useful.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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ammocan
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I worked on fitting the plates between the lower and upper support and i learned quickly that its easier to fit the plates with the upper support off. Anyway got them both in place and tacked to check that everything was going to fit.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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