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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are good looking rides jspbtown !

I gathered a lot of inspiration from the orange/copper buggy you built that went into several I have built since. It is clean, direct and to the point.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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jspbtown
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Joe....I wish I had your skills. You clearly have taken you builds well beyond any of mine.
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
BTW, I will be coming through Utah and spending most of a day in Moab on July 14th traveling on the ECVW '15 trip with the Manx Club. About 6 maybe 7 buggy's. We will be leaving Las Vegas on AM of 7-13-15 to Moab. Then leave Moab for Cheyenne WY on 7-15-15.

Are you located anywhere near there?


Im not close to moab but i dont need much of a reason to plan a weekend there. Although you sure picked a hot time of year to go to moab. You should head north from moab and cool off a little in the mountains and enjoy some scenery on your way to wyoming. Anyway I may try to work that in my schedule. Moab is always a good time.

Thanks everyone for the tips on paint I will probably try the single stage paint from summit. All your buggy's look great!
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vdub411 wrote:
Implement paint is cheap and very durable. I did my bug with satin black a few years back and it has held up pretty well under heavy trail riding and mud bogging. And it comes in a ton of different colors.


Thanks for the info on this paint i have seen this paint before and i refer to it as tractor paint. Has anyone else used this on a project before. I figured it would be durable since in comes in Caterpillar yellow. But has anyone else used this stuff that can comment?
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got in 3 hrs today and finished up one side rack/ nerf bar. I chose to do diamond plate but i cut out a semi circle patter around the outside. I did this to get a different look and so i dont get water, sand, mud or other stuff collecting on top. Pretty much the same reason people use the mesh or expanded metal. I chose not to use the expanded metal or mesh because the kids will use this as a step to get into the buggy and the expanded metal tends to sag after lots of use.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

let me know what you guys think. I love the input and feedback.
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Buggy Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usually when I tell somebody that something looks "Unique", it's a polite way of saying that I don't really like it.

However in this case, it brings on a totally different meaning. Here, "Unique" is good. I'm digging it!

I'm amazed at your abilities!
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-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Without the scallops, it would have looked industrial. I like that, well done. It also gives me ideas for other design areas non-related to nerf bars for future buggy projects. Thanks for sharing!
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback guys. Sometimes I get these ideas in my head that I get all excited about but every now and again the ideas don't pan out and are a lot less cool than how I envisioned it. Anyway I like it when an idea turns out.
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

9 hrs in the garage today very productive. First I finished the other nerf bar so the the chassis looks symmetrical again.
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order has been restored to the universe. Ya i am a little OCD.
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So i have always had an issue with the work the original builder did on shortening the tunnel. The welds looked terrible and towards the bottom the two halves didnt meet up very well so it looked terrible. Then you guys suggested i get rid of the seems that stick out on the sides of the tunnel and on the bottom it looked even worse than the sides did. Anyway i decided to cut the bottom of the tunnel off and replace it with a piece of thick plate to strengthen the whole thing
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

when I cut the bottom off between the two back cross braces i was able to see that the weld job to shorten the tunnel was even worse structurally than it looked. I found that there were parts I could see daylight through and gaps were filled with wire and welded together. I was actually more relieved that I had cut into it so I now know there is an issue and I can fix it rather that always having it in the back of my mind.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Below you can see what i did. I got the wire brush as far in there as i could and ran a dozen passes across the joint to strengthen and thicken the wall. I also realized that this was a great opportunity to do a solid fix to get rid of the fins on the side of the tunnel. Where the top and bottom halves meet the factory seam creates a large channel which i filled with a thick weld bead. I then welded a small plate on the inside of the tunnel where the vertical and horizontal welds meet. Its not pretty but its not seen and I'm hoping this will make the tunnel much stronger than before.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by ammocan on Sat Feb 07, 2015 11:37 pm; edited 3 times in total
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After I was satisfied with the work inside the tunnel I cut a piece of 1/4" plate to replace the bottom of the tunnel and welded it in place. I cut it a little wide to give me a lip for the floor pan.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

after welding the seam from the inside I was able to just cut off the fins on the side of the tunnel and grind it smooth. Cutting those off was good advice it looks much better and i will be able to smooth the tunnel out much better now.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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ammocan
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I need input on seat belts so I can get the mounts done for them. There are many seat belts for many purposes understand I do not need a 5 point racing harness. I have considered a retractable lap and shoulder belt and a simple 4 point harness but what i am leaning towards is this simple 3 point with a center buckle. I love simple and these are as simple as they come. Please give me some input on restraints you guys have liked and why.
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Buggy Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ammocan wrote:
So I need input on seat belts so I can get the mounts done for them. There are many seat belts for many purposes understand I do not need a 5 point racing harness. I have considered a retractable lap and shoulder belt and a simple 4 point harness but what i am leaning towards is this simple 3 point with a center buckle. I love simple and these are as simple as they come. Please give me some input on restraints you guys have liked and why.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



I really don't have much experience here, but the little I have is with seat belts. If you must have shoulder harnesses, I'd say go with a retractable style. The free ends from the ones you pictured are like the ones I had in the Tow'd, and whipped around like crazy, and wouldn't stay very tight. I'm not sure if I'll be using shoulder harnesses at all in mine. I'll probably go with lap belts. Dune buggies are marginally safer than motorcycles.

By the way, I thought the title to this thread was "Beginner" buggy build. You've got a lot better start than most of the beginners I've seen here. Very impressive work.
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-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks brian for the comments on seat belts. Based on what your telling me I will likely go with retractable lap and shoulder belts. I would still like some input from others on seat belts but thats where im leaning at this point.

Brian I appreciate the compliments on my work. To be fair i am a total beginner when it comes to VW's and buggys. When I get to body work and paint you will see the beginner come out in me.

What I will say to other beginners is that i have been building my tool collection for some time and tools are a major advantage especially a welder and a plasma cutter if your going to be doing chassis work. As far as the skills needed the encouraging thing i can say to beginners is that I am a self taught welder and mechanic. I feel like I do good work but I work hard to make it so. There are many beginners out there that simply half @$$ it this is evident in my car as it was terribly done in every respect from welding the chassis and filling the gaps with silicone to the wiring which was more like spider webs under my dash. Im sure many of you builders out there have seen the same type of work.

I would always encourage someone to try something new and not to be discouraged by something you don't know how to do HOWEVER, care enough to do it right! Many 9f my original problems I mentioned at the beginning of my build were a direct result of half @$$ing it by the PO.
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Buggy Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I absolutely understand half a$$ work! I just added a link to the build thread of my buggy, and if you see what was done with it, you'll find a number of similar, and some worse things done.

Unfortunately for me, I have never touched a welder, except on the shelves of the hardware stores. That is one thing I absolutely will learn, so that one day I can do an entire build myself. I've been very fortunate to have had Joe agree to do the chassis, roll cage, and fiberglass work on my buggy.
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-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dang Brian I looked over your build and you weren't kidding. You have worked hard to overcome some shoddy work. We could probably play a game of I CAN TOP THAT all day on the topic of crappy workmanship. Your build is sure looking good (hats off to you too Joe).
One thing I have never done is fiberglass work or automotive body work and paint and I really wish I had a buddy I could just bribe to do it for me and have it returned to me magically repaired and painted.

We all have our favorite parts of the project and mine is the chassis and mechanics so if there is anyone close to me that's interested in doing my FG body and paint I will provide the supplies and as many 6 packs as it takes.
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wythac
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice work. Since imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, I'm going to flatter you by stealing that diamond plate footboard idea, with one minor modification: I will weld tabs on the nerf bars so the plates can be attached by hardware and removed when I'm not needing the extra cargo space. I like removable additions, like my spare carrier and my trailer hitch. It will be easy to make inserts like yours for my bars.

The scallops are a simple and inspired idea. Awesome.
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ammocan
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wythac wrote:
Very nice work. Since imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, I'm going to flatter you by stealing that diamond plate footboard idea, with one minor modification: I will weld tabs on the nerf bars so the plates can be attached by hardware and removed when I'm not needing the extra cargo space. I like removable additions, like my spare carrier and my trailer hitch. It will be easy to make inserts like yours for my bars.

The scallops are a simple and inspired idea. Awesome.


I appreciate the flattery but my foot board design is patent pending. just kidding it would be pretty cool to see one of my ideas catch on and inspire some other builds. the idea for me served a few purposes. when doing my footboards I didn't want stuff like sand and water to puddle on top and I wanted to have places to hook bungee cords and straps so they also serve as strapping or hooking points for cargo. I also wanted them crazy strong since they will probably take a rock or two in the mountains and the kids will be climbing on them. if you end up doing something similar please send me pics your idea sounds cool.
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Buggy Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bro,
I think you missed something there. Joe has done 95% of the work. I did a major portion of the disassembly, took it to him, and then he's done the rest. My abilities rest with minor mechanical and wiring. I will be taking the engine apart, and then (hopefully) re-assembling it. That's about what I am comfortable with right now. I have another guy that's pretty good with painting that will be doing the body painting.

Joe lives about 6 hours from me, and graciously agreed to take on the task. There's nothing that you've seen that I've done that's remotely impressive. Your abilities thus far are wonderful! For a first time builder, you're miles ahead of where I would be. Great job, and keep us posted!
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-(Loretta) Manx # M2940D910E on customized 1970 chassis by Joescoolcustoms
-(Scarlett) Manx Resorter #12 (R0012B931S) on 1969 chassis.
-Original Home built buggy that started all. I learned to drive in it back in 1985.
Manx Club Member # 4436

Check out my Loretta here: http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=3365Manx

Scarlett is getting a Makeover! http://manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=3745&p=24983#p24983
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weasel_ugs
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I got my buggy it had 4 point harnesses in it, first time I have ever used them. I liked the safety aspect of them but they were very immobilizing, well they are supposed to be. In a street car I didnt like that and my wife hated them.

I ended up putting shoulder belt retractors in it and now its much more comfortable to drive and my wife loves them too.
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